1 00:00:19,560 --> 00:00:25,320 SOUTH PACIFIC 2 00:00:59,600 --> 00:01:02,920 In this day and age, you need to go a little beyond 3 00:01:03,120 --> 00:01:05,880 or at least want to take a few more steps 4 00:01:06,000 --> 00:01:08,250 any other person is willing to take. 5 00:01:09,251 --> 00:01:13,251 Subpack e sincronia by DanDee 6 00:02:15,680 --> 00:02:17,040 Walsh vence o Xcel Pro 7 00:02:35,840 --> 00:02:37,290 Surfer THE 100 BEST WAVES 8 00:02:42,920 --> 00:02:44,220 PURPOSE OF THE MACHINE 9 00:03:13,240 --> 00:03:14,540 That's it, boys. 10 00:03:15,800 --> 00:03:17,100 long flight. 11 00:03:17,600 --> 00:03:19,280 Somewhat relaxing. 12 00:03:19,960 --> 00:03:21,199 Take that tip. 13 00:03:21,200 --> 00:03:24,800 Kind of got stuck in weather and lost the best day of high tide. 14 00:03:26,360 --> 00:03:28,800 It's part of what we do as surfers, 15 00:03:28,920 --> 00:03:30,760 you get fucked. 16 00:03:31,520 --> 00:03:35,720 Not at all voyage we do have perfect surf, 17 00:03:35,800 --> 00:03:37,480 and always work. 18 00:03:37,720 --> 00:03:39,111 Just does not work like that. 19 00:03:41,800 --> 00:03:43,600 Now we are at the end of summer, 20 00:03:43,680 --> 00:03:47,440 and now my focus is shifting to the northern hemisphere 21 00:03:47,560 --> 00:03:49,280 and preparation for Hawaii. 22 00:03:50,520 --> 00:03:51,479 When forecast a strong El Nino, 23 00:03:51,480 --> 00:03:52,439 BROTHER 24 00:03:52,440 --> 00:03:53,359 Crashing HOOKIPA 25 00:03:53,360 --> 00:03:54,599 ... everyone is excited. 26 00:03:54,600 --> 00:03:57,520 The El Niño basically is like a pattern of unusual weather. 27 00:03:57,600 --> 00:03:58,919 The Pacific Ocean is warmer than usual ... 28 00:03:58,920 --> 00:03:59,799 SURFER 29 00:03:59,800 --> 00:04:01,640 ... and allows us to take many big waves. 30 00:04:02,440 --> 00:04:04,240 Really I started to take seriously 31 00:04:04,320 --> 00:04:06,400 when Ian sat with me and one day Shaun 32 00:04:06,480 --> 00:04:08,039 and he said, "Get ready, this may be the craziest winter of their lives." 33 00:04:08,040 --> 00:04:09,340 BROTHER 34 00:04:10,840 --> 00:04:13,520 The last El Nino was 1998. 35 00:04:13,640 --> 00:04:15,120 It was an amazing winter. 36 00:04:15,200 --> 00:04:16,159 1998 JANUARY 37 00:04:16,160 --> 00:04:18,160 There were many sessions giant waves at Jaws. 38 00:04:18,800 --> 00:04:21,360 Surfing extreme, extreme conditions, 39 00:04:21,440 --> 00:04:22,359 just day after day, of perfection. 40 00:04:22,360 --> 00:04:23,799 DESIGNER OF BOARDS AND COACH 41 00:04:23,800 --> 00:04:26,280 Taylor Knox caught a wave in Mexico 42 00:04:26,360 --> 00:04:28,200 that has withstood the test of time. 43 00:04:30,320 --> 00:04:33,440 An El Niño really strong happens so rarely, 44 00:04:33,600 --> 00:04:37,680 this is a great opportunity to see what is the limit, 45 00:04:38,000 --> 00:04:39,920 as far as surfing goes. 46 00:04:42,480 --> 00:04:43,839 I believe we will see the biggest waves being surfed ... 47 00:04:43,840 --> 00:04:44,759 SURFER 48 00:04:44,760 --> 00:04:46,060 ... in the history of our sport. 49 00:04:48,680 --> 00:04:51,720 Jaws has basically the biggest wave in the world. 50 00:04:53,200 --> 00:04:54,720 And Ian lives just across the street. 51 00:04:55,640 --> 00:04:58,000 So it is in a very unusual position. 52 00:05:01,600 --> 00:05:02,759 SURFER 53 00:05:02,760 --> 00:05:05,455 If Jaws is rolling, surfing the world falls on your shoulders. 54 00:05:07,800 --> 00:05:10,480 It is prepared for good waves of one to two meters, 55 00:05:10,560 --> 00:05:12,120 but are waves of 18 meters. 56 00:05:13,640 --> 00:05:15,840 And something you can surf, 57 00:05:15,920 --> 00:05:17,360 know, you can paddle inside. 58 00:05:25,960 --> 00:05:27,880 The way that Ian and these guys are surfing, 59 00:05:28,480 --> 00:05:32,120 they are surfing as if they were waves of two meters. 60 00:05:36,640 --> 00:05:38,279 You have to laugh. It is difficult to understand, you know? 61 00:05:38,280 --> 00:05:39,640 SURFER 62 00:05:42,240 --> 00:05:45,760 There is almost no other place that offers such intensity. 63 00:05:50,800 --> 00:05:54,400 A wave can drag you tens of meters underwater. 64 00:05:59,480 --> 00:06:00,919 With a violence that you can not 65 00:06:00,920 --> 00:06:02,640 control your arms, you hit, 66 00:06:02,840 --> 00:06:04,840 really think you're going to die. 67 00:06:11,480 --> 00:06:14,600 Fight and try to push 68 00:06:15,360 --> 00:06:18,800 You can burn more oxygen than you can. 69 00:06:27,560 --> 00:06:29,280 It is a calculated risk you take, 70 00:06:29,360 --> 00:06:31,280 and you manage and minimize risks 71 00:06:31,480 --> 00:06:33,200 with your fitness 72 00:06:33,760 --> 00:06:35,320 and mental preparation. 73 00:06:41,160 --> 00:06:42,460 325, Ian. 74 00:06:42,680 --> 00:06:44,600 Good ride, good job ... 75 00:06:44,800 --> 00:06:46,100 and it seems! 76 00:06:49,240 --> 00:06:50,540 Good test. 77 00:06:53,920 --> 00:06:55,920 Ian is one of our most dedicated athletes. 78 00:06:56,000 --> 00:06:58,240 In fact, across the curriculum, 79 00:06:58,320 --> 00:07:00,239 he probably participated in our training ... more 80 00:07:00,240 --> 00:07:01,359 HIGH PERFORMANCE COACH 81 00:07:01,360 --> 00:07:02,960 ... than any other I can remember. 82 00:07:04,920 --> 00:07:07,440 You run out of things that are very practical, we call 83 00:07:07,640 --> 00:07:08,639 tactical training. 84 00:07:08,640 --> 00:07:10,560 All these things, you can see 85 00:07:10,760 --> 00:07:12,480 directly related to surfing better. 86 00:07:12,960 --> 00:07:16,400 Interestingly, Ian also pioneered the limits. 87 00:07:16,480 --> 00:07:19,200 He participated in training projects where the challenge, 88 00:07:19,400 --> 00:07:20,760 and in that environment, 89 00:07:20,840 --> 00:07:23,119 I think we see progress in training for big waves, 90 00:07:23,120 --> 00:07:25,480 this idea of ​​overcoming pressure. 91 00:07:25,560 --> 00:07:28,160 Fifteen seconds. You want to go to the next stage. Let's go! 92 00:07:31,720 --> 00:07:34,600 She managed, managed! Let's go! Good work, buddy. 93 00:07:34,680 --> 00:07:36,560 He rehearses his techniques 94 00:07:36,640 --> 00:07:39,160 in order to make the right decision at the right time, 95 00:07:39,240 --> 00:07:40,848 when the parameters are very high. 96 00:07:43,960 --> 00:07:46,280 If they are caught by a wave of 20 meters, 97 00:07:46,360 --> 00:07:48,159 They need to have all the skills and techniques 98 00:07:48,160 --> 00:07:49,159 COACH OF FREE DIVING 99 00:07:49,160 --> 00:07:52,440 to hold his breath in an emergency that may last a minute, 100 00:07:55,160 --> 00:07:56,880 and need to do it again and again, 101 00:07:56,960 --> 00:07:59,880 with only 15 second intervals. 102 00:08:01,640 --> 00:08:03,160 His violent shark. 103 00:08:04,880 --> 00:08:07,080 The effort by which we make the move is equivalent 104 00:08:07,160 --> 00:08:10,400 to any highly trained group, with which we have worked. 105 00:08:11,400 --> 00:08:13,680 Just to know that I am giving the maximum of me 106 00:08:13,760 --> 00:08:16,480 to stay as comfortable as possible 107 00:08:16,560 --> 00:08:19,960 the less comfortable I can imagine. 108 00:08:21,000 --> 00:08:23,360 He's doing dives 50 meters, 109 00:08:23,560 --> 00:08:25,800 apneas nearly five minutes. 110 00:08:27,680 --> 00:08:30,600 Need to be prepared to the maximum level, 111 00:08:30,720 --> 00:08:32,280 otherwise you end up finding, 112 00:08:32,480 --> 00:08:35,160 wave that can not stand. 113 00:08:38,000 --> 00:08:39,039 DECEMBER 2012 114 00:08:39,040 --> 00:08:40,639 A BANK CORTES KM 180 WEST SAN DIEGO 115 00:08:40,640 --> 00:08:42,120 In my own experience, 116 00:08:42,760 --> 00:08:44,800 DK saved my life, no doubt. 117 00:08:46,160 --> 00:08:48,320 I drowned in Cortes Bank. 118 00:08:54,400 --> 00:08:55,700 The ambulance is on the way. 119 00:09:02,360 --> 00:09:03,660 What happened? 120 00:09:04,520 --> 00:09:06,960 You were pulled down and just got ... 121 00:09:08,080 --> 00:09:10,949 The board hit you in the head, belly or somewhere else? 122 00:09:11,160 --> 00:09:13,400 If not for DK to be there ... 123 00:09:14,160 --> 00:09:15,319 DESIGNER OF BOARDS 124 00:09:15,320 --> 00:09:17,580 ... you know, he's the big reason Greg was still alive. 125 00:09:20,360 --> 00:09:21,660 If not for him, 126 00:09:21,680 --> 00:09:23,245 heroically abandoning or jet ski 127 00:09:23,360 --> 00:09:25,080 hundreds of kilometers in the sea, 128 00:09:25,160 --> 00:09:26,760 to get my lifeless body, 129 00:09:26,840 --> 00:09:30,800 and then hug me and go through two or three big waves ... 130 00:09:31,400 --> 00:09:34,720 You will not find any other rescue team like this in the world. 131 00:09:36,200 --> 00:09:37,920 Save someone's life, especially 132 00:09:38,120 --> 00:09:39,840 someone like him, so close, 133 00:09:39,920 --> 00:09:43,240 really motivated me to do what we do today. 134 00:09:45,360 --> 00:09:47,319 I and my brothers, we are all a bit younger 135 00:09:47,320 --> 00:09:49,920 but we moved home, taking care of each other. 136 00:09:50,320 --> 00:09:52,640 And that's just because of Ian and his brothers. 137 00:09:53,840 --> 00:09:56,040 We used to call them "squirrels". 138 00:09:56,360 --> 00:09:59,080 Ian was the rider and they, his little helpers ... 139 00:09:59,240 --> 00:10:00,239 DAD 140 00:10:00,240 --> 00:10:01,540 ... and it was very good. 141 00:10:02,840 --> 00:10:05,560 If Shaun and DK are there, the twins, he's fine. 142 00:10:05,640 --> 00:10:07,726 Like, they will pick up, no matter what. 143 00:10:07,960 --> 00:10:08,839 MOM 144 00:10:08,840 --> 00:10:10,079 It makes things easier. 145 00:10:10,080 --> 00:10:12,280 It's never easy, but it helps a little. 146 00:10:17,160 --> 00:10:20,600 What a crazy combination, the four brothers. 147 00:10:20,840 --> 00:10:22,160 They are a team. 148 00:10:23,080 --> 00:10:25,640 He is the older brother, all follow in his footsteps. 149 00:10:25,720 --> 00:10:27,020 If he was a degenerate, 150 00:10:27,040 --> 00:10:28,039 BROTHER 151 00:10:28,040 --> 00:10:29,919 probably we would have followed that route, 152 00:10:29,920 --> 00:10:32,840 but he was a model student at school. 153 00:10:35,480 --> 00:10:38,800 My love and passion for big waves 154 00:10:39,160 --> 00:10:41,840 It would not be what it is without my brothers. 155 00:10:42,360 --> 00:10:43,660 Simply would not work. 156 00:10:48,120 --> 00:10:50,440 It seemed that even before winter begins, 157 00:10:50,520 --> 00:10:52,160 he was working hard. 158 00:10:55,520 --> 00:10:57,606 He kind of knew there was an anticipation there, 159 00:10:57,680 --> 00:10:59,640 since the El Niño was drawing 160 00:10:59,720 --> 00:11:01,285 and the weather began to settle. 161 00:11:01,400 --> 00:11:05,040 He is one of the few elite athletes in our sport. 162 00:11:05,960 --> 00:11:08,920 And the twins, they kind of have a different appearance. 163 00:11:09,160 --> 00:11:12,680 They are like your own natural training, I would say so. 164 00:11:14,120 --> 00:11:15,728 It's really to connect with yourself 165 00:11:15,800 --> 00:11:18,720 and remain physically active, no matter what you do. 166 00:11:23,120 --> 00:11:26,360 Besides all the science and supporting community 167 00:11:26,440 --> 00:11:28,483 and trying to help you improve in large waves, 168 00:11:28,760 --> 00:11:32,520 I think it's just important that it surfing, for good surfing. 169 00:11:34,600 --> 00:11:37,880 There is no competition, the waves are as big as can be ... 170 00:11:38,880 --> 00:11:41,000 connect with your friends and enjoy, 171 00:11:41,120 --> 00:11:43,840 and this is an important part of this program. 172 00:11:48,480 --> 00:11:50,088 My favorite type of surfer is the guy 173 00:11:50,240 --> 00:11:51,960 you can have fun with it. 174 00:11:52,120 --> 00:11:54,160 If the wave is one meter or 25, 175 00:11:54,240 --> 00:11:56,480 it will still be able to go there and have fun. 176 00:11:56,760 --> 00:11:59,803 Guys like Ian are the guys where really inspired me, so. 177 00:16:53,760 --> 00:16:56,960 Basically, every high tide, you have a decision to make, 178 00:16:57,040 --> 00:17:00,080 because there will be a competition in which you have to worry 179 00:17:00,160 --> 00:17:04,400 or if you will surf the waves you really want, which is the big deal. 180 00:17:06,320 --> 00:17:07,620 When you leave? 181 00:17:07,680 --> 00:17:10,880 I leave tomorrow night, probably to Oahu, 182 00:17:10,960 --> 00:17:12,260 for competition. 183 00:17:12,720 --> 00:17:16,200 I would go for Jaws, only to rust removal. 184 00:17:17,160 --> 00:17:18,920 As you realize all here? 185 00:17:19,000 --> 00:17:19,959 It's so much. 186 00:17:19,960 --> 00:17:22,360 What you mean? You have two kids. 187 00:17:22,640 --> 00:17:25,422 Yes, children will be easy after dealing with all these things. 188 00:17:26,480 --> 00:17:28,960 Competed on the world circuit for about 11 years. 189 00:17:29,280 --> 00:17:31,840 When I was stopping, Ian was just beginning, 190 00:17:31,960 --> 00:17:33,680 trying to qualify for the circuit. 191 00:17:33,960 --> 00:17:35,920 And I said, "Man, there is no one of his age 192 00:17:36,000 --> 00:17:37,920 that is behind the big wave bid. " 193 00:17:38,160 --> 00:17:39,480 So I went to Ian and said, 194 00:17:39,560 --> 00:17:41,999 "Let us become partners surfing big waves together." 195 00:17:42,000 --> 00:17:43,300 NOVEMBER 2007 196 00:17:43,400 --> 00:17:44,840 I think he made the right choice 197 00:17:44,920 --> 00:17:48,200 in surfing very big waves and still be competitive 198 00:17:48,280 --> 00:17:49,580 events and everything. 199 00:17:51,600 --> 00:17:52,900 Some wave there? 200 00:17:53,680 --> 00:17:55,000 It is very windy. 201 00:17:55,440 --> 00:17:57,920 Face, is very uneven. 202 00:17:58,000 --> 00:17:59,720 See how big is the second wave. 203 00:17:59,800 --> 00:18:03,480 It would be difficult to maintain the position, with all this turbulence. 204 00:18:03,960 --> 00:18:06,000 The tide was a little weak and strange, 205 00:18:06,200 --> 00:18:07,634 the wind was totally wrong. 206 00:18:08,000 --> 00:18:09,300 What do you want to do? 207 00:18:09,320 --> 00:18:10,620 I think I'll get out. 208 00:18:11,040 --> 00:18:13,680 I'll stop in Kuau, pick things up and I'm going. 209 00:18:13,760 --> 00:18:15,060 We are very late. 210 00:18:17,000 --> 00:18:18,119 Have fun there. 211 00:18:18,120 --> 00:18:19,760 He decided to go to Honulua Bay, 212 00:18:19,840 --> 00:18:21,579 and I think he decided to hunt with arrows. 213 00:18:43,520 --> 00:18:47,200 Really complicates things when you try and do what Ian does. 214 00:18:48,640 --> 00:18:51,360 He is really focused on surfing giant waves at Jaws, 215 00:18:51,440 --> 00:18:53,880 and it is actually in love with surfing competitions. 216 00:18:54,040 --> 00:18:57,160 The waves are a quarter of the size. 217 00:18:58,520 --> 00:19:00,399 Then they will no longer participate in the event? 218 00:19:00,400 --> 00:19:01,720 You are rolling right now. 219 00:19:02,640 --> 00:19:05,640 My battery has changed from the third day today, the second day, 220 00:19:05,720 --> 00:19:09,000 and it has become an utter madness to get everything ready 221 00:19:09,080 --> 00:19:11,160 and to pack to go to Oahu. 222 00:19:11,520 --> 00:19:14,600 It's just insane, this whole competition season. 223 00:19:14,720 --> 00:19:16,320 I try to help whenever I can. 224 00:19:18,120 --> 00:19:22,480 He tries to balance the two, which is no easy task. 225 00:19:26,360 --> 00:19:27,660 Just before my battery, 226 00:19:27,760 --> 00:19:29,559 I was warming up in some new boards. 227 00:19:29,560 --> 00:19:33,000 In the first wave, climbed on her and she literally broke. 228 00:19:34,000 --> 00:19:36,217 I thought, "This is ... Is this really happening?" 229 00:19:36,920 --> 00:19:38,760 -In a wave. -In a wave, like this? 230 00:19:39,160 --> 00:19:41,280 I can only improve from this point. 231 00:19:44,080 --> 00:19:48,880 Welcome to HIC Pro 2015, a $ 100,000 event. 232 00:19:48,960 --> 00:19:51,360 Ian Walsh ten years ago, winning this event, 233 00:19:51,480 --> 00:19:53,760 and of course, former finalist, 234 00:19:53,880 --> 00:19:57,040 doing very well in the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, in the last year. 235 00:19:57,120 --> 00:19:59,946 If you know Ian, he's out there looking for the biggest wave in the world. 236 00:20:01,120 --> 00:20:04,560 Jack Robinson, 17 years old, a phenomenon in Australia. 237 00:20:05,000 --> 00:20:07,600 It will be a wave of good score for Robo. 238 00:20:08,080 --> 00:20:10,840 Ian ... we'll see. Red, Ian Walsh. 239 00:20:16,040 --> 00:20:19,520 Here we go. Jack Robinson at work, shooting in front. 240 00:20:20,000 --> 00:20:23,560 Jack Robinson, white, first, Ian Walsh, second. 241 00:20:24,200 --> 00:20:26,400 He's trying to improve 5.67. 242 00:20:26,640 --> 00:20:27,940 Beautiful wave. 243 00:20:29,720 --> 00:20:31,360 And it sounds the alarm. 244 00:20:31,480 --> 00:20:33,960 Ian Walsh, excellent surfing. 245 00:20:34,080 --> 00:20:35,960 He tore the Robo first. 246 00:20:37,640 --> 00:20:40,320 Testing microphone. Yellow leather. red leather. 247 00:20:40,400 --> 00:20:41,760 Ian, nice to meet you. 248 00:20:42,960 --> 00:20:44,260 It's good to see more of Ian Walsh. 249 00:20:44,320 --> 00:20:45,624 -My congratulations, Ian. -Thank you. 250 00:20:45,720 --> 00:20:48,806 just give hi to the group of 4th year of my mother, who is watching, 251 00:20:48,840 --> 00:20:50,520 Dad Pukalani, Maui em. 252 00:20:50,800 --> 00:20:52,760 Hello, School Pukalani! 253 00:20:52,840 --> 00:20:54,600 Ian was well. Uncle Ian detonated. 254 00:20:54,680 --> 00:20:55,799 With you guys. 255 00:20:55,800 --> 00:20:57,100 -Good to see you. -Right. 256 00:20:58,560 --> 00:21:03,120 And here we go 23 minutes left for two more surfers go to end 257 00:21:03,200 --> 00:21:05,120 along with Kaito Kino and Billy Kemper. 258 00:21:05,440 --> 00:21:07,840 It's a takeoff in turbulent waters for Ian Walsh. 259 00:21:08,600 --> 00:21:12,000 Dictating the level here for the semifinal number two. 260 00:21:12,640 --> 00:21:14,200 Robo surfing. 261 00:21:14,440 --> 00:21:16,200 Beautiful maneuver combined curve. 262 00:21:16,920 --> 00:21:18,440 Here we go, Ian Walsh. 263 00:21:19,040 --> 00:21:21,080 It is the famous Ian Walsh right there. 264 00:21:22,680 --> 00:21:24,680 Jack Robinson on segunda then. 265 00:21:27,760 --> 00:21:29,920 Well, that will solve the second semifinal. 266 00:21:30,000 --> 00:21:34,520 Ian Walsh and Jack Robinson, advancing on first and second to end 267 00:21:34,600 --> 00:21:36,920 to face Billy Kemper and Kaito Kino. 268 00:21:37,680 --> 00:21:40,080 And we are on the way to the end. 269 00:21:40,920 --> 00:21:42,280 -Ian Walsh. -Ian Walsh. 270 00:21:42,360 --> 00:21:45,160 A beautiful output, slides on the curve at the bottom and rises to the top. 271 00:21:45,280 --> 00:21:48,080 An aggressive curve down again, another upset, 272 00:21:48,160 --> 00:21:50,320 a little more aggressive, the second turn. 273 00:21:50,680 --> 00:21:54,920 My goodness, I could not wish for a better start as a competitor. 274 00:21:59,040 --> 00:22:00,560 Billy got out. 275 00:22:00,680 --> 00:22:02,280 Let's see the maneuver closing. 276 00:22:04,320 --> 00:22:08,480 And behind him, Ian Walsh, quickly reaching that 9.93. 277 00:22:09,160 --> 00:22:11,760 With this relaxation, and he is in the lead. 278 00:22:14,480 --> 00:22:17,040 And this is just a victory lap at this point. 279 00:22:17,200 --> 00:22:18,560 There are only few people 280 00:22:18,640 --> 00:22:21,239 as good as him in small waves, and especially in large, 281 00:22:21,240 --> 00:22:24,360 and the proof is their performance in Sunset Beach. 282 00:22:24,480 --> 00:22:26,199 Look for Ian Walsh, he's on fire. 283 00:22:26,200 --> 00:22:29,880 Billy Kemper, he got 5.6 in this event ... 284 00:22:30,200 --> 00:22:33,920 You are a now twice champion HIC Pro, 285 00:22:34,040 --> 00:22:36,640 2005 and now in 2015, 286 00:22:36,760 --> 00:22:38,600 de Maui, Ian Walsh! 287 00:22:46,400 --> 00:22:49,040 Back to the bike shortly thereafter. 288 00:22:58,280 --> 00:22:59,580 Sure. 289 00:22:59,880 --> 00:23:01,180 Winter has come. 290 00:23:03,520 --> 00:23:04,799 What a day. 291 00:23:04,800 --> 00:23:06,560 Damn, I'm so excited! 292 00:23:09,160 --> 00:23:12,080 It's so nice to win a tournament. 293 00:23:12,240 --> 00:23:14,920 God, I'm so electric. 294 00:23:15,240 --> 00:23:19,600 But it is so good. So many times, I've been so close to getting it. 295 00:23:27,720 --> 00:23:29,240 ... for Ian Walsh, 296 00:23:29,600 --> 00:23:31,560 and certainly for all children 297 00:23:31,760 --> 00:23:34,440 the class of her mother, the School Pukalani ... 298 00:23:34,520 --> 00:23:35,820 EAST Joint Base Airport 299 00:23:41,240 --> 00:23:42,540 BOX OFFICE 300 00:23:47,240 --> 00:23:49,160 They are 16h30. 301 00:23:52,280 --> 00:23:54,480 Good job. Congratulations. 302 00:23:54,960 --> 00:23:56,079 Me fun. 303 00:23:56,080 --> 00:23:57,520 I'm so excited. 304 00:24:07,760 --> 00:24:09,060 Thank you guys. 305 00:24:09,080 --> 00:24:11,880 Surely it would not have been possible without all of you guys, 306 00:24:11,960 --> 00:24:13,239 we are all one big unit, 307 00:24:13,240 --> 00:24:15,920 then thank you and enjoy yourselves tonight. 308 00:24:29,800 --> 00:24:31,440 I do not know about this year. 309 00:24:32,080 --> 00:24:34,949 Let's just pray that everything goes right, the safety of all, 310 00:24:35,120 --> 00:24:38,400 because all are eager to proceed. 311 00:24:40,240 --> 00:24:43,760 With the winter season with the El Niño coming, 312 00:24:43,840 --> 00:24:47,880 there are guys who really believe and want to surf 313 00:24:48,000 --> 00:24:50,160 in waves of 25 meters around, 314 00:24:50,240 --> 00:24:53,560 and the sky is the limit, you know, the size of the wave that can surf, 315 00:24:54,240 --> 00:24:55,960 It depends on the desire of each. 316 00:24:56,920 --> 00:24:58,680 Always will progress. 317 00:24:58,800 --> 00:25:00,800 For me to sit here and say, 318 00:25:01,000 --> 00:25:03,680 "No, in our generation, no one will overcome it," 319 00:25:03,920 --> 00:25:05,220 It is stupidity. 320 00:25:06,280 --> 00:25:07,519 In one day 321 00:25:07,520 --> 00:25:09,319 with certain conditions, with the right security team. 322 00:25:09,320 --> 00:25:12,320 Probably see someone this year that would make impossible. 323 00:25:14,200 --> 00:25:15,840 You can feel the tension in the air, 324 00:25:15,920 --> 00:25:19,400 but I always realize how much they play. 325 00:25:19,600 --> 00:25:23,040 They prepare the day before, agree the dawn ... 326 00:25:24,600 --> 00:25:27,800 4 JANUARY 327 00:25:27,880 --> 00:25:30,720 Forecast: 3,7m for the 2nd Front Height 16.7 Estimated: 14.5 m 328 00:25:30,800 --> 00:25:33,840 The first high tide of the year in Jaws is always very exciting. 329 00:25:34,640 --> 00:25:37,422 Everyone is a little nervous and excited to see each other. 330 00:25:37,520 --> 00:25:40,120 It has that energy in the air that you can not play. 331 00:25:40,640 --> 00:25:42,239 It's almost as if we were entering 332 00:25:42,240 --> 00:25:44,559 in a battle of gladiators every time we go there, 333 00:25:44,560 --> 00:25:46,680 type, you do not know what will happen. 334 00:25:47,320 --> 00:25:48,319 AQUATIC SAFETY 335 00:25:48,320 --> 00:25:49,799 I was not really here this morning, 336 00:25:49,800 --> 00:25:53,080 then all slowed instead of starting at six o'clock, 337 00:25:53,160 --> 00:25:56,720 we decided to just go back to the things 338 00:25:56,800 --> 00:26:00,160 and never tire to stay out here waiting for the waves. 339 00:26:01,360 --> 00:26:02,760 The winds come, 340 00:26:02,840 --> 00:26:05,399 but there is no wind now, so as soon as we leave here 341 00:26:05,400 --> 00:26:06,700 better. 342 00:26:24,600 --> 00:26:28,480 The first thing that you really feel is the ocean texture. 343 00:26:29,040 --> 00:26:31,360 So you feel if there is wind or if the sea is rough. 344 00:26:32,120 --> 00:26:34,880 There is a lot coming refraction rocks. 345 00:26:35,800 --> 00:26:38,160 Do you feel the tide energy, 346 00:26:38,760 --> 00:26:41,720 and it's really when things hit the day. 347 00:26:41,880 --> 00:26:44,280 Ian is rowing. Ian is starting. 348 00:26:55,600 --> 00:26:56,759 It was a difficult. 349 00:26:56,760 --> 00:26:58,240 It was very steep. 350 00:27:07,800 --> 00:27:09,360 Keep an eye out, here comes the sequel. 351 00:27:20,720 --> 00:27:22,640 Take the rope. Take the rope. 352 00:27:22,760 --> 00:27:24,060 All right? 353 00:27:26,200 --> 00:27:27,500 Right. It's Greg. 354 00:27:32,480 --> 00:27:34,240 It's Ian. 355 00:27:34,360 --> 00:27:35,920 From January. 356 00:27:48,400 --> 00:27:50,480 I think I cut myself ugly. 357 00:27:50,680 --> 00:27:53,080 We're going back to the boat. Ian cut his finger. 358 00:27:53,200 --> 00:27:54,500 Prepare the boat. 359 00:27:55,080 --> 00:27:56,558 I think I can still surf? -Yes. 360 00:27:57,280 --> 00:27:58,760 Just wrap. Sew later. 361 00:27:59,080 --> 00:28:01,000 I was a small hiccup in the middle of the day. 362 00:28:01,080 --> 00:28:04,120 The back of the rudder cut my finger, 363 00:28:04,200 --> 00:28:05,760 almost to the bone. 364 00:28:05,880 --> 00:28:07,920 I did a quick dressing and returned to the sea, 365 00:28:08,000 --> 00:28:10,640 and I took another cool wave that was very unstable. 366 00:28:12,640 --> 00:28:14,205 Just taking a break to rest 367 00:28:14,320 --> 00:28:17,000 and the waves were strange afterwards. 368 00:28:21,440 --> 00:28:24,309 That little wind dose makes the difference between day and night. 369 00:28:24,320 --> 00:28:27,160 Not see anything and have salt water in his eyes ... 370 00:28:29,880 --> 00:28:31,920 jump is basically like a bridge 371 00:28:32,000 --> 00:28:33,680 without knowing what's down there. 372 00:28:37,520 --> 00:28:41,200 On a very good day at Jaws, you could go and just get a wave 373 00:28:41,280 --> 00:28:43,400 those seven, eight, nine. 374 00:28:46,040 --> 00:28:48,160 Finally we gather the whole team, 375 00:28:48,240 --> 00:28:50,240 and I will have a finger sewn tonight 376 00:28:50,360 --> 00:28:53,920 make sure I did not broke any tendon or something. 377 00:28:54,680 --> 00:28:58,280 I think it was an average day today but it was a good start. 378 00:28:59,200 --> 00:29:00,560 It's just the beginning. 379 00:29:02,840 --> 00:29:05,200 Stretch. Good. Close. 380 00:29:05,320 --> 00:29:06,279 Estique. 381 00:29:06,280 --> 00:29:07,975 Good. Now lower your hand completely. 382 00:29:08,520 --> 00:29:10,680 If there is competition, an epic tide, 383 00:29:10,760 --> 00:29:12,839 and you need to surf tomorrow, I could protect him. 384 00:29:12,840 --> 00:29:15,440 It is best to stay out of the water for a few days. 385 00:29:15,560 --> 00:29:17,640 Yes, I am seeking the tenth day. 386 00:29:17,720 --> 00:29:20,480 -Right. 'Then six days would be my goal. 387 00:29:25,400 --> 00:29:28,240 The whole history of giant waves surfing is very interesting. 388 00:29:28,640 --> 00:29:30,400 You know, these guys are pioneers. 389 00:29:30,600 --> 00:29:33,440 They go there without strings and without safety equipment. 390 00:29:34,080 --> 00:29:38,680 There has always been this idea that anything with more than ten meters 391 00:29:38,760 --> 00:29:41,280 It starts to get too dangerous to surf, 392 00:29:41,360 --> 00:29:43,480 this limit impossible size. 393 00:29:43,560 --> 00:29:46,880 And then there was the introduction of this type of surfing with trailer. 394 00:29:47,080 --> 00:29:49,036 Basically, if you can go up on a surfboard, 395 00:29:49,080 --> 00:29:50,775 It could be put into a large wave. 396 00:29:51,240 --> 00:29:54,400 Can surf ten or 15 waves such 397 00:29:54,480 --> 00:29:57,160 because it can be positioned more. 398 00:29:57,600 --> 00:30:00,079 It has a machine that can travel at 65 kilometers per hour, 399 00:30:00,080 --> 00:30:02,880 and has a wave of 15 meters in that direction, come and get it. 400 00:30:05,400 --> 00:30:08,880 Guys do not surfariam the year, they would get the 15 meters. 401 00:30:08,960 --> 00:30:10,280 It's insane. 402 00:30:11,840 --> 00:30:14,520 You take any ordinary person to surf paddling Jaws, 403 00:30:14,920 --> 00:30:16,720 You can not catch a wave, and boarded, 404 00:30:16,800 --> 00:30:18,640 It will be totally annihilated. 405 00:30:28,920 --> 00:30:34,000 The tow surfing revolution showed us it was possible to survive 406 00:30:34,080 --> 00:30:36,440 much larger than we thought waves. 407 00:30:42,760 --> 00:30:44,760 The tow surfing helped establish 408 00:30:44,960 --> 00:30:47,640 the jet ski as a security tool 409 00:30:47,720 --> 00:30:49,640 and to do all that is in the ocean. 410 00:30:51,320 --> 00:30:56,840 It was really the step to the next evolution of the giant wave surfing. 411 00:30:58,040 --> 00:31:00,680 I used to compete with the paddle boards, 412 00:31:00,760 --> 00:31:03,000 and I had the idea that I could do 413 00:31:03,200 --> 00:31:04,920 these boards are faster. 414 00:31:06,080 --> 00:31:10,480 That's when Ian, Greg and some other guys 415 00:31:10,600 --> 00:31:12,360 They began to row these things. 416 00:31:14,320 --> 00:31:17,440 We made this conscious decision to stop the tow surfing 417 00:31:17,640 --> 00:31:19,120 and back row. 418 00:31:24,520 --> 00:31:27,520 Full speed with which the wave travels when it reaches 15 meters 419 00:31:27,600 --> 00:31:30,960 It is too fast for the standard board design. Everything must change. 420 00:31:32,480 --> 00:31:34,088 They are ready? I'm not sure. 421 00:31:34,160 --> 00:31:36,840 No one has done this before, so no one knows. 422 00:31:38,480 --> 00:31:41,640 Chris Christenson, he has the details 423 00:31:41,720 --> 00:31:44,560 I think that no other designer has surfboard. 424 00:31:45,280 --> 00:31:48,760 So, I find something that gives us a little more 425 00:31:48,840 --> 00:31:50,480 and that every time I give me wrong, 426 00:31:50,560 --> 00:31:53,120 it's because I got off to too fast wave. 427 00:31:53,200 --> 00:31:54,879 After every big tide that he surfs, 428 00:31:54,880 --> 00:31:56,749 We talked with each other, then immediately. 429 00:31:56,800 --> 00:31:59,000 Having that more parallel rail up there 430 00:31:59,080 --> 00:32:01,340 will allow the board to work better on the basis of the wave, 431 00:32:01,360 --> 00:32:04,440 We allow you paddle faster with more shoulder width apart 432 00:32:04,520 --> 00:32:07,560 and have a wider tail will give you more maneuverability. 433 00:32:10,680 --> 00:32:13,880 If they can trust me before entering the water, 434 00:32:13,960 --> 00:32:16,240 it leaves them in the game. 435 00:32:22,280 --> 00:32:24,720 JANUARY, 10 436 00:32:26,160 --> 00:32:27,839 Forecast 3.9m in the 2nd Front Height 14.7 Estimated: 13m 437 00:32:27,840 --> 00:32:29,480 The forecast looks very good, 438 00:32:29,600 --> 00:32:31,160 probably the best of the year. 439 00:32:31,280 --> 00:32:33,119 You think it's the size that Ian is looking for? 440 00:32:33,120 --> 00:32:35,800 No, Ian is looking for as possible. 441 00:32:37,600 --> 00:32:40,240 Just ... it looks like the tide is not yet here. 442 00:32:40,360 --> 00:32:43,560 I do not know, the markers are simply not evident. 443 00:32:44,000 --> 00:32:47,000 I think we'll just start now and get on with our plan 444 00:32:47,080 --> 00:32:48,380 and go there at first light, 445 00:32:48,400 --> 00:32:50,520 hoping to improve throughout the morning. 446 00:32:57,240 --> 00:32:59,280 The best conditions so far. 447 00:33:02,560 --> 00:33:05,400 The fact that the forecast you indicated light winds 448 00:33:05,480 --> 00:33:08,640 aroused much interest of surfers around the world. 449 00:33:21,320 --> 00:33:23,720 The concentration of people in the morning was lighter, 450 00:33:23,840 --> 00:33:26,760 so you could position yourself and begin to align with the waves 451 00:33:26,840 --> 00:33:29,480 the way I wanted, wherever he wanted to get them. 452 00:33:39,000 --> 00:33:42,600 I think the board of a guy went right over me at the end of the tube. 453 00:33:53,240 --> 00:33:55,400 And then, as more people arrive, 454 00:33:55,480 --> 00:33:57,320 the place where it takes the waves is saying, 455 00:33:57,520 --> 00:33:59,240 based on where you are stuck in the crowd. 456 00:34:01,960 --> 00:34:04,879 You know, when you're turning, trying to paddle a giant wave, 457 00:34:04,880 --> 00:34:06,880 and you have people on your left, and right, 458 00:34:06,915 --> 00:34:08,039 positioning, calling ... 459 00:34:08,040 --> 00:34:10,439 The press is there. There are helicopters flying everywhere, 460 00:34:10,440 --> 00:34:12,720 drones buzzing in your head, 461 00:34:12,800 --> 00:34:15,640 boats passing over each other, it's just chaos. 462 00:34:17,400 --> 00:34:19,200 Surfed in Jaws for 15 years, 463 00:34:19,280 --> 00:34:21,760 and I do not go there anymore because it's just a crazy zone. 464 00:34:21,880 --> 00:34:23,400 It's not fun, it is very dangerous. 465 00:34:24,560 --> 00:34:27,255 The last thing you want to do is hurt someone with the board. 466 00:34:29,840 --> 00:34:31,960 It's when you make mistakes. 467 00:34:32,040 --> 00:34:35,400 You know, you're surfing according to the crowd, not what you want. 468 00:34:43,280 --> 00:34:46,360 When you have 50 people there, I'm definitely not at ease, 469 00:34:46,440 --> 00:34:48,600 Ian, on the other hand, seems to be fine. 470 00:35:41,360 --> 00:35:43,480 Let's take a second wave. 471 00:36:13,000 --> 00:36:17,040 Stay with my brother in the water in Jaws is something that can not even explain. 472 00:36:17,800 --> 00:36:20,040 It's probably one of the most special moments. 473 00:36:20,240 --> 00:36:23,000 There is nothing that can not be, is the best feeling in the world. 474 00:36:23,600 --> 00:36:26,840 On most days, we take turns, making the security of each other, 475 00:36:26,960 --> 00:36:29,080 and this gives us all a chance to surf. 476 00:36:59,000 --> 00:37:02,200 Only three or four very good sequences came today 477 00:37:02,280 --> 00:37:04,480 in a period of eight to ten hours. 478 00:37:05,640 --> 00:37:08,080 The weather and all things are here, but the tide not. 479 00:37:08,720 --> 00:37:10,080 The waves are very small. 480 00:37:10,360 --> 00:37:12,880 I'll be impressed if they really predict. 481 00:37:18,880 --> 00:37:21,720 A large contribution to the evolution 482 00:37:21,920 --> 00:37:23,640 the sport is actually security. 483 00:37:24,120 --> 00:37:27,520 And the most notable is the inflatable clothing that we have developed. 484 00:37:27,600 --> 00:37:29,840 I had the idea of ​​inflatable bathing suit 485 00:37:29,920 --> 00:37:31,919 by a near-death experience at Mavericks. 486 00:37:31,920 --> 00:37:35,960 December 2010 487 00:37:37,840 --> 00:37:40,440 I was getting old, was married, having children, 488 00:37:40,640 --> 00:37:43,248 just I felt it was too dangerous to be worth. 489 00:37:44,240 --> 00:37:47,840 It was something that was necessary because the sport has reached a level 490 00:37:47,920 --> 00:37:49,960 we were losing people. 491 00:37:50,040 --> 00:37:51,840 You know, this was not acceptable. 492 00:37:54,040 --> 00:37:56,160 When you fall, you pull a string, 493 00:37:56,240 --> 00:37:58,880 the costume inflates and takes you to the surface. 494 00:37:59,480 --> 00:38:00,639 You will not think: 495 00:38:00,640 --> 00:38:02,439 "You know what? I'm sure because I have the costume." 496 00:38:02,440 --> 00:38:04,200 You do not want to have that attitude. 497 00:38:05,600 --> 00:38:08,279 What happens when you are in a situation where your active costume? 498 00:38:08,280 --> 00:38:10,320 Or in a situation where its not active costume? 499 00:38:12,120 --> 00:38:13,480 Then, because of the costume, 500 00:38:13,720 --> 00:38:17,840 you have many more people who would not be there if it were not for him. 501 00:38:18,320 --> 00:38:22,120 People in certain places, became unmanageable, so. 502 00:38:22,280 --> 00:38:23,800 This is the paradox, for sure. 503 00:38:33,440 --> 00:38:36,280 Saved lives, but somehow, 504 00:38:36,360 --> 00:38:38,520 I feel that endangered the lives of people 505 00:38:38,600 --> 00:38:40,920 that would not be there without the costume. 506 00:38:43,440 --> 00:38:45,720 If you are surfing anywhere in the world, 507 00:38:45,800 --> 00:38:47,799 You must have a security plan and a second reserve, 508 00:38:47,800 --> 00:38:49,104 and another plan after that. 509 00:38:50,040 --> 00:38:53,120 Most people think the costume is the security plan. 510 00:38:53,320 --> 00:38:56,240 And they assume that the twins will rescue them. 511 00:38:58,960 --> 00:39:01,560 It certainly was morally difficult at first, 512 00:39:01,640 --> 00:39:03,161 when he started to get very full. 513 00:39:04,280 --> 00:39:06,240 I could never live knowing 514 00:39:06,320 --> 00:39:08,519 I was to be there working with this group, 515 00:39:08,520 --> 00:39:10,000 which I consider my family, 516 00:39:10,080 --> 00:39:13,560 and that something happened because I was not taking care of them, 517 00:39:13,680 --> 00:39:15,280 She was caring for another person 518 00:39:15,360 --> 00:39:17,316 that had nothing to do with our operation. 519 00:39:18,920 --> 00:39:21,559 Do not think it's right to say what someone may or may not, 520 00:39:21,560 --> 00:39:26,240 but when you cross that line of not following the security protocol, 521 00:39:26,320 --> 00:39:28,233 like being able to take care of themselves first, 522 00:39:28,400 --> 00:39:29,878 you kind of, you crossed the line 523 00:39:29,880 --> 00:39:32,760 and you need to rethink what you're doing there. 524 00:39:34,400 --> 00:39:36,640 If you look at the inflatable costume, 525 00:39:37,000 --> 00:39:40,680 yes, it's a nightmare, on certain days, at certain waves ... 526 00:39:41,560 --> 00:39:45,640 but the sport just became awesome because of it. 527 00:39:55,760 --> 00:39:59,120 In the fifteenth, we had a tide that was expected to be 528 00:39:59,200 --> 00:40:01,679 greater than anything we'd had throughout the winter, 529 00:40:01,680 --> 00:40:03,200 maybe in my life. 530 00:40:04,880 --> 00:40:09,280 So it is lining up to be a monumental day for rowed surfing. 531 00:40:09,360 --> 00:40:13,160 Forecast 5.5 m 18.2 the 2nd Front Height Estimate: 22,5m 532 00:40:13,440 --> 00:40:14,760 Beautiful setting. 533 00:40:14,840 --> 00:40:17,720 15 JANUARY 534 00:40:18,040 --> 00:40:20,280 Bring tow boards was part of the discussion, 535 00:40:20,360 --> 00:40:24,320 but I am stubborn to try rowing. 536 00:40:24,400 --> 00:40:26,199 I think we're all a little scared, 537 00:40:26,200 --> 00:40:29,320 and kind of worried about how great it will be today, 538 00:40:29,400 --> 00:40:31,660 but we expect it to be, somehow manageable. 539 00:40:34,760 --> 00:40:36,368 Actually, I'm very nervous now, 540 00:40:36,440 --> 00:40:37,740 by ter ali surfar. 541 00:40:37,760 --> 00:40:40,040 I do not know, I have this strange feeling. 542 00:40:41,320 --> 00:40:44,000 Certainly shaken. There is a day to show feelings ... 543 00:40:45,280 --> 00:40:47,062 I'm a little out of control, for sure. 544 00:40:47,720 --> 00:40:49,600 Greg was basically sick all the time. 545 00:40:49,720 --> 00:40:52,560 He could not surf. So Greg ended up doing security. 546 00:40:53,440 --> 00:40:56,160 It is very difficult to do well on a day like this. 547 00:40:56,400 --> 00:40:59,800 You know how much waited for a day like this, 548 00:40:59,880 --> 00:41:01,180 to get surfing. 549 00:41:03,040 --> 00:41:06,720 All we seek, chasing big waves, 550 00:41:06,800 --> 00:41:08,147 I was pointing to this day. 551 00:41:10,800 --> 00:41:13,720 I had never seen Jaws break like that in my life. 552 00:41:14,600 --> 00:41:16,200 Two hours will go. 553 00:41:17,000 --> 00:41:18,300 Observe. 554 00:41:28,480 --> 00:41:32,840 It's like you're rehearsing to pick up the pace, 555 00:41:32,920 --> 00:41:35,240 because the wave moves very quickly 556 00:41:35,320 --> 00:41:37,640 and there is plenty of water hitting the face. 557 00:41:39,000 --> 00:41:42,440 A perfect example of "careful what you wish for." 558 00:41:59,560 --> 00:42:00,860 Heating! 559 00:42:33,040 --> 00:42:34,340 Shane, suba! 560 00:42:34,360 --> 00:42:35,660 Shane. 561 00:42:36,200 --> 00:42:39,680 Yes, Shane. It was amazing. 562 00:44:04,640 --> 00:44:06,360 You got an amazing wave, right? 563 00:44:08,440 --> 00:44:11,320 I just felt as if the ocean were under control. 564 00:44:14,000 --> 00:44:15,719 It was not like a normal day, where you can 565 00:44:15,720 --> 00:44:17,920 have fun, like, everyone was ... 566 00:44:39,080 --> 00:44:40,319 Come on, come on. 567 00:44:40,320 --> 00:44:41,479 Up, come on. 568 00:44:41,480 --> 00:44:42,780 -Are you alright? -My neck. 569 00:44:42,880 --> 00:44:44,180 -What? -My neck. 570 00:44:44,840 --> 00:44:46,140 Here is Shaun Walsh. 571 00:44:46,440 --> 00:44:48,440 DK has a possible cervical lesion. 572 00:44:49,600 --> 00:44:51,730 I feel it a lot and my neck is screwed. 573 00:44:52,680 --> 00:44:54,000 Take me with Shaun. 574 00:44:57,120 --> 00:44:59,320 I could look into the eyes of all, 575 00:44:59,400 --> 00:45:02,680 and say, "My God, this is what happened in Cortes." 576 00:45:03,200 --> 00:45:05,520 It was the reverse situation. 577 00:45:05,960 --> 00:45:07,655 DK was there, he saved Greg's life, 578 00:45:07,840 --> 00:45:09,560 and now, Greg is doing what it can. 579 00:45:11,840 --> 00:45:13,319 It was just all a bit surreal. 580 00:45:13,320 --> 00:45:15,360 Like, my heart sank, you know? 581 00:45:15,480 --> 00:45:18,001 I did not know how serious it was, or what was going on. 582 00:45:19,120 --> 00:45:21,040 DK, you want to call the emergency? 583 00:45:21,120 --> 00:45:22,560 I need an ambulance. 584 00:45:22,760 --> 00:45:24,060 Do not call Mom. 585 00:45:25,560 --> 00:45:28,800 No matter how good the waves are, that's the priority, no matter. 586 00:45:29,040 --> 00:45:30,960 We took it with confidence. 587 00:45:31,280 --> 00:45:35,360 The goal is simply to get you to a higher level of care. 588 00:45:35,800 --> 00:45:38,560 When this happens, there is not much we can do. 589 00:45:39,000 --> 00:45:41,320 Shaun, he and Luke, all trying to go with me, 590 00:45:41,400 --> 00:45:44,182 but looking at how good the waves were, they wanted them to stay. 591 00:45:44,200 --> 00:45:46,640 Once in a lifetime sea conditions are so. 592 00:45:52,160 --> 00:45:54,640 We were out and it turned into 593 00:45:54,840 --> 00:45:57,520 a very important day of my life. 594 00:46:35,480 --> 00:46:38,080 Just took a wave in the face 595 00:46:38,160 --> 00:46:40,480 and got no advantage for a while. 596 00:46:57,160 --> 00:46:58,680 I saw him get into that wave, 597 00:46:58,760 --> 00:47:01,455 and well when I saw him standing, I thought "He's too inside." 598 00:47:01,520 --> 00:47:05,280 And you know, when you're there sometimes need to take the risk. 599 00:47:32,200 --> 00:47:35,160 And he was standing the whole time down the wave. 600 00:47:35,280 --> 00:47:36,800 I thought he'd jump. 601 00:48:15,800 --> 00:48:18,119 You know what happened, and some of the surfer here today, 602 00:48:18,120 --> 00:48:20,240 know, history was made, for sure. 603 00:48:21,720 --> 00:48:25,040 Yes, today was amazing, but as soon as I caught that wave, 604 00:48:25,160 --> 00:48:27,840 reality hit and all she could think was in DK. 605 00:48:46,200 --> 00:48:48,560 Nothing was broken, nothing broken. 606 00:48:48,640 --> 00:48:50,880 All examinations and resonances were good. 607 00:48:51,480 --> 00:48:54,200 Now for the next month, I have to wear this neck brace, 608 00:48:55,320 --> 00:49:00,040 and a half to rest for a while and wait for my body to recover. 609 00:49:05,600 --> 00:49:07,760 It has been an intense Janeiro. 610 00:49:08,240 --> 00:49:12,760 A week ago, we had one of the greatest days I've ever seen 611 00:49:12,840 --> 00:49:15,480 with clean winds, in my whole life here. 612 00:49:15,880 --> 00:49:19,280 I just felt that we would never see everything 613 00:49:19,360 --> 00:49:20,660 happen again, 614 00:49:20,680 --> 00:49:23,400 until we are very old, cheering on a cliff. 615 00:49:24,440 --> 00:49:28,240 And then, a great system appeared in the middle of the Pacific, 616 00:49:28,320 --> 00:49:29,960 and here we are. 617 00:49:30,040 --> 00:49:31,440 28 JANUARY 618 00:49:31,920 --> 00:49:33,199 Forecast 4.5 m in 20 seconds Front Height Estimated: 20m 619 00:49:33,200 --> 00:49:35,800 Simply having another chance with conditions like this 620 00:49:35,880 --> 00:49:41,440 It is ... kind of made me take a step back and appreciate a little more 621 00:49:41,520 --> 00:49:43,400 by tides that we are having now. 622 00:49:45,520 --> 00:49:48,389 I thought my winter had ended after leaving the hospital, 623 00:49:48,400 --> 00:49:50,560 then I got high of doctors in Los Angeles. 624 00:49:50,640 --> 00:49:52,161 He said that everything was in place. 625 00:49:52,280 --> 00:49:55,160 I'm very grateful. I never thought this would happen. 626 00:49:56,960 --> 00:50:00,720 It was horrible for him to not surf, but it is undoubtedly 627 00:50:00,800 --> 00:50:03,000 the best guy on the jet ski, making security. 628 00:50:03,120 --> 00:50:06,760 So I think on the whole, the group feels much more comfortable and confident, 629 00:50:06,840 --> 00:50:08,360 only to have him in the water. 630 00:50:08,640 --> 00:50:10,320 Sure, it's Greg. 631 00:50:26,960 --> 00:50:29,090 Pay attention to Greg, boys. Pay attention. 632 00:50:29,120 --> 00:50:30,420 I caught him. 633 00:50:31,600 --> 00:50:32,900 Victory. 634 00:50:33,480 --> 00:50:37,360 In this sport, you definitely want to see your friends do well. 635 00:50:37,480 --> 00:50:39,520 For Greg, he took a wave a few years ago ... 636 00:50:39,600 --> 00:50:40,519 October 2012 637 00:50:40,520 --> 00:50:43,080 ... it was the best pipe already caught in Jaws. 638 00:50:47,920 --> 00:50:51,760 And as he passed through, he fell, flying out of the tube. 639 00:50:56,000 --> 00:50:58,760 He called to stumble at the finish line. 640 00:51:00,760 --> 00:51:02,720 You just see how much time and energy 641 00:51:02,800 --> 00:51:05,320 They will in each of these waves are ridden 642 00:51:05,440 --> 00:51:08,720 and how long it takes to get a day like this, 643 00:51:08,920 --> 00:51:12,360 and it was very cool to see everything going right for Greg today. 644 00:51:29,880 --> 00:51:33,360 He took a pipe and left. You could almost see 645 00:51:33,480 --> 00:51:36,960 all the energy and work that were employed in that wave, 646 00:51:37,040 --> 00:51:38,400 kind, coming out of it. 647 00:51:38,560 --> 00:51:39,860 Good, Greg! 648 00:51:41,720 --> 00:51:44,040 We Dorian surfing. 649 00:52:18,240 --> 00:52:19,920 Part of what Jaws is, it's like, 650 00:52:20,160 --> 00:52:22,640 you surf for six hours, 651 00:52:22,840 --> 00:52:25,520 you can only have a good opportunity in a wave. 652 00:52:42,840 --> 00:52:47,600 About four hours later, I got one of the best waves I've had there. 653 00:53:51,240 --> 00:53:53,040 Everything finally fell into place. 654 00:53:53,240 --> 00:53:57,560 Rather than focusing on the goal of surfing the biggest wave of his life, 655 00:53:57,920 --> 00:54:00,000 It is further to step back 656 00:54:00,080 --> 00:54:01,800 and enjoy all the little things 657 00:54:02,000 --> 00:54:03,720 that led you there, and live these days. 658 00:54:05,880 --> 00:54:08,160 The last El Nino was 1998. 659 00:54:08,680 --> 00:54:11,280 There were only four El Niños of fact, in 40 years. 660 00:54:12,040 --> 00:54:13,880 Best big waves I've seen. 661 00:54:14,000 --> 00:54:16,680 I've been surfing big waves for 25 years. 662 00:54:19,840 --> 00:54:23,840 Ian chose a path that really suits him. 663 00:54:24,040 --> 00:54:27,680 I'm just blessed as a father. 664 00:54:34,280 --> 00:54:38,760 Part of surfing is simply looking at what comes next. 665 00:54:40,680 --> 00:54:41,980 It's true what they say. 666 00:54:42,040 --> 00:54:45,200 The greater the adversity, the greater the achievement. 667 00:54:45,520 --> 00:54:48,720 And for me, no matter the size of the waves, 668 00:54:48,880 --> 00:54:50,640 or step into the unknown, 669 00:54:51,000 --> 00:54:52,300 It is where I wanna be.