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BBM: 2ACAEFC6 LINE: RFBET99 6 00:00:51,551 --> 00:00:53,387 My inner life tends to be measured Wechat: RFBET99 Whatsapp: +66944386003 7 00:00:53,387 --> 00:00:56,265 come out in turnips, meat and lime. 8 00:00:56,265 --> 00:00:58,558 If you peek carefully on tiny images 9 00:00:58,558 --> 00:01:00,560 trying to find out who can spend so much 10 00:01:00,560 --> 00:01:03,563 from his days near for small tortillas. 11 00:01:03,563 --> 00:01:05,857 You might have concluded that was a surprising number 12 00:01:05,857 --> 00:01:08,402 from taco comes from one source 13 00:01:08,402 --> 00:01:11,905 Guerilla Tacos, a small operation that appears 14 00:01:11,905 --> 00:01:16,243 a few days a week in Downtown Los Angeles. 15 00:01:16,243 --> 00:01:18,912 Guerilla Tacos is beautiful taqueria single 16 00:01:18,912 --> 00:01:20,872 the creation of Wes Avila 17 00:01:20,872 --> 00:01:25,544 the culinary training came under Alain Ducasse in Paris. 18 00:01:25,544 --> 00:01:28,255 Avila is making taco in a blank window 19 00:01:28,255 --> 00:01:31,550 or stairs or garage space downtown in 20 00:01:31,550 --> 00:01:34,594 and there are rumors about tacos made with diver scallops 21 00:01:34,594 --> 00:01:37,514 strange vegetables and yellow tail sushi class 22 00:01:39,766 --> 00:01:43,061 When I published a list of of the best dishes of 2013 23 00:01:43,061 --> 00:01:45,897 I included the taco made with grilled squash 24 00:01:45,897 --> 00:01:47,441 chewy Oaxacan cheese 25 00:01:47,441 --> 00:01:49,943 and a little chili and charred tomatoes. 26 00:01:51,778 --> 00:01:53,739 It looks like tortillas don't have to be done according to order but they are fresh and enough to burn. 27 00:01:53,739 --> 00:01:55,615 Equivalent taco from energy 28 00:01:55,615 --> 00:01:57,909 of what Chinese cooking sometimes calls 29 00:01:57,909 --> 00:02:00,287 "Breath pan," is very influential. 30 00:02:00,287 --> 00:02:03,540 31 00:02:06,043 --> 00:02:08,962 A student of Ducasse, stop his job in a haute cuisine 32 00:02:08,962 --> 00:02:11,590 pop up to serve Taco octopus scorched 33 00:02:11,590 --> 00:02:14,217 on a street corner in the middle of the city. 34 00:02:14,217 --> 00:02:17,888 You won't find cuisine like this anywhere, but LA. 35 00:02:36,323 --> 00:02:39,284 [instrumental music] 36 00:03:11,149 --> 00:03:14,069 [music continues] 37 00:03:40,220 --> 00:03:43,181 [music continues] 38 00:04:16,756 --> 00:04:18,592 I'm LA, I'm driving. 39 00:04:21,136 --> 00:04:24,764 I, I am my truck, My truck is me 40 00:04:24,764 --> 00:04:27,392 I will be a little unusual way. 41 00:04:27,392 --> 00:04:29,144 I went down on the 10th not 5 42 00:04:29,144 --> 00:04:31,938 that I might not be 43 00:04:31,938 --> 00:04:34,900 [instrumental music] 44 00:04:40,989 --> 00:04:44,951 Everyone in the world has what an idea Los Angeles is 45 00:04:44,951 --> 00:04:47,496 Everyone thinks they know what Los Angeles means even if they have never been here 46 00:04:47,496 --> 00:04:49,498 And if you live in Los Angeles, you're used to 47 00:04:49,498 --> 00:04:55,128 have your city explain you 48 00:04:55,128 --> 00:04:57,464 by people who come within a few weeks 49 00:04:57,464 --> 00:05:00,467 live in an hotel in Beverly Hills 50 00:05:00,467 --> 00:05:02,802 and enter what can they get 51 00:05:02,802 --> 00:05:06,223 within 10 minutes in their rental car 52 00:05:06,223 --> 00:05:08,642 Things that people find are hard to understand I think 53 00:05:10,310 --> 00:05:13,980 is a kind of - the magnitude of what is here 54 00:05:13,980 --> 00:05:18,318 55 00:05:18,318 --> 00:05:21,988 A large number of people who live in the city 56 00:05:21,988 --> 00:05:25,534 that comes together in this case beautiful and haphazard mode. 57 00:05:29,746 --> 00:05:33,250 And you know, the mistake is the line between them 58 00:05:33,250 --> 00:05:37,045 Sometimes where you find it the most beautiful thing 59 00:05:37,045 --> 00:05:40,006 [instrumental music] 60 00:05:56,731 --> 00:05:59,818 I mean, I became a food writer really because of an accident 61 00:05:59,818 --> 00:06:03,405 but be what I want 62 00:06:04,823 --> 00:06:06,741 The idea of celebrating, you know 63 00:06:06,741 --> 00:06:08,827 the - noble mosaic from the city 64 00:06:08,827 --> 00:06:12,330 on other people's money it's just really fun 65 00:06:12,330 --> 00:06:14,583 and really right what I want to do 66 00:06:14,583 --> 00:06:17,377 I mean, I keep feeling as if I've gone with something 67 00:06:21,715 --> 00:06:25,218 - There must be a Jonathan Gold Los Angeles 68 00:06:25,218 --> 00:06:29,055 and that is Los Angeles a Many people don't know. 69 00:06:29,055 --> 00:06:32,934 He, like Raymond Chandler shows a vision 70 00:06:32,934 --> 00:06:35,186 from Los Angeles That is a new vision. 71 00:06:36,938 --> 00:06:39,524 - Jonathan changes world of food writing 72 00:06:39,524 --> 00:06:43,236 because he is one of the first restaurant critics 73 00:06:43,236 --> 00:06:46,448 who, who is perfect happy in... 74 00:06:46,448 --> 00:06:48,199 I think I even think happier 75 00:06:48,199 --> 00:06:51,745 write about hard to find small restaurants 76 00:06:51,745 --> 00:06:53,622 in small small communities. 77 00:06:53,622 --> 00:06:55,749 - Hi, how are you? - good How are you? 78 00:06:55,749 --> 00:06:58,752 Can I get huarache de with flor de calabaza? 79 00:06:58,752 --> 00:07:00,670 - Flor de calabaza huarache? - Yes. 80 00:07:00,670 --> 00:07:01,796 - Sure. Do you want the cheese? 81 00:07:01,796 --> 00:07:03,256 - Yeah. - Good. 82 00:07:03,256 --> 00:07:04,758 - He goes to these places 83 00:07:04,758 --> 00:07:07,552 where food criticism doesn't always go 84 00:07:07,552 --> 00:07:10,764 and he goes to where mom and pop 85 00:07:10,764 --> 00:07:14,517 where generations of tradition are being revealed 86 00:07:14,517 --> 00:07:16,269 in cooking. 87 00:07:16,269 --> 00:07:18,188 LA is great like that because you don't need to travel 88 00:07:18,188 --> 00:07:20,607 far feels like you are traveling far 89 00:07:20,607 --> 00:07:22,942 and - and I think that's what makes it interesting author 90 00:07:22,942 --> 00:07:26,946 because he is very curious about the type of cuisine. 91 00:07:26,946 --> 00:07:29,449 - This is the right little sauce from my grandmother 92 00:07:29,449 --> 00:07:32,077 He, he came With this, with this sauce 93 00:07:32,077 --> 00:07:34,120 so my mom just wants me to bring you some 94 00:07:34,120 --> 00:07:36,915 so you can taste it and see how good it is. 95 00:07:36,915 --> 00:07:38,625 Really, really, very good. 96 00:07:38,625 --> 00:07:39,834 - Oh, there's salsa de semillas in it 97 00:07:39,834 --> 00:07:41,169 - Yes, salsa de semillas 98 00:07:41,169 --> 00:07:45,632 It has nuts, uh, uh, garlic, uh, hojuelas... 99 00:07:45,632 --> 00:07:46,966 That's very good. 100 00:07:46,966 --> 00:07:48,510 - thank you - You're welcome. 101 00:07:53,014 --> 00:07:56,101 - The saddest moment in Boyle Heights street food 102 00:07:56,101 --> 00:07:58,103 Most fans will agree 103 00:07:58,103 --> 00:08:00,063 is night street vendors breed 104 00:08:00,063 --> 00:08:03,149 finally chased from their scene 105 00:08:03,149 --> 00:08:04,651 This meeting always happens 106 00:08:04,651 --> 00:08:06,820 Rousted by police very often. 107 00:08:06,820 --> 00:08:08,488 That's amazing how fast the circus 108 00:08:08,488 --> 00:08:10,949 turns into quiet parking lot. 109 00:08:10,949 --> 00:08:14,619 But Carmen Castellanos, Antojitos Carmen's soul 110 00:08:14,619 --> 00:08:17,497 has worked Boyle Heights since the 1980s 111 00:08:17,497 --> 00:08:20,125 and after a short stretch on the sidewalk 112 00:08:20,125 --> 00:08:22,419 next to the view of the MTA building 113 00:08:22,419 --> 00:08:24,963 He scratched together funds for real restaurants 114 00:08:24,963 --> 00:08:28,842 just around the corner and bring with his family. 115 00:08:28,842 --> 00:08:31,344 Other LA restaurants begin as street food 116 00:08:31,344 --> 00:08:35,223 but nothing so clear as Antojitos Carmen. 117 00:08:35,223 --> 00:08:37,726 You want these people to be successful. 118 00:08:40,186 --> 00:08:45,316 - He became, a - figure of democratization 119 00:08:45,316 --> 00:08:48,403 movements in, in culture, are not only writin ' 120 00:08:48,403 --> 00:08:51,948 not only in food writin ', but in the ability to tell stories 121 00:08:51,948 --> 00:08:56,202 about America and the city from Los Angeles specifically 122 00:09:00,373 --> 00:09:03,460 that other people don't write about. He gives value. 123 00:09:03,460 --> 00:09:06,379 [instrumental music] 124 00:09:43,958 --> 00:09:45,251 [laughs] 125 00:09:45,251 --> 00:09:46,669 - This is good. 126 00:09:46,669 --> 00:09:49,172 So, Alice, we... I want to talk about some of this, uh 127 00:09:49,172 --> 00:09:50,882 the piece we want Jonathan to do. 128 00:09:50,882 --> 00:09:52,342 - good 129 00:09:52,342 --> 00:09:55,428 - Um, more advice. 130 00:09:55,428 --> 00:09:58,264 - Okay, I feel so the most important thing 131 00:09:58,264 --> 00:09:59,599 and we've talked a little about this before 132 00:09:59,599 --> 00:10:01,434 is Grand Central Market section. 133 00:10:01,434 --> 00:10:03,603 - It's true, indeed critical point. 134 00:10:03,603 --> 00:10:07,565 It has become a definite symbol type of Los Angeles 135 00:10:07,565 --> 00:10:10,819 for a very long time 136 00:10:10,819 --> 00:10:13,488 As it has been rebuilt or a new restaurant enter 137 00:10:13,488 --> 00:10:15,657 or - new ones fancy butchers 138 00:10:15,657 --> 00:10:18,368 it will stop this place you are 139 00:10:18,368 --> 00:10:22,789 associate with smell and taste and .. 140 00:10:22,789 --> 00:10:25,041 Display of that section from Los Angeles 141 00:10:25,041 --> 00:10:30,296 being kind valuable artisanal 142 00:10:30,296 --> 00:10:33,258 you know, aren't we special to pay 143 00:10:33,258 --> 00:10:36,928 $ 35.99 for skirt steak type of market 144 00:10:36,928 --> 00:10:39,931 - You know, you can pupuseria 145 00:10:39,931 --> 00:10:42,976 is next to, uh, a fancy cheese shop 146 00:10:42,976 --> 00:10:47,355 - Yeah. - Is that a challenge? this, what is the owner now facing? 147 00:10:47,355 --> 00:10:50,191 - This. I mean, I like many new places 148 00:10:50,191 --> 00:10:51,568 and I always shop there 149 00:10:51,568 --> 00:10:54,737 but you must have a place where you have 150 00:10:54,737 --> 00:10:57,282 like, tastes 151 00:10:57,282 --> 00:11:00,201 Sort of a century ago Los Angeles 152 00:11:00,201 --> 00:11:02,829 exists with - modern sense. 153 00:11:02,829 --> 00:11:05,206 There is something cultural about it, and there is something 154 00:11:05,206 --> 00:11:07,667 about that which has become part of Los Angeles 155 00:11:07,667 --> 00:11:10,336 which I think is a kind of magic. 156 00:11:10,336 --> 00:11:15,842 It's like when you started cutting meat and bones from the market? 157 00:11:15,842 --> 00:11:18,344 And that, it's difficult questions to answer, and I think 158 00:11:18,344 --> 00:11:21,514 it will be something that is really interesting to overcome 159 00:11:21,514 --> 00:11:22,974 - Yeah. 160 00:11:22,974 --> 00:11:24,309 - I - I hope to get it for that part 161 00:11:24,309 --> 00:11:25,685 faster than later. 162 00:11:28,271 --> 00:11:30,899 - Whenever we talk about it criticism in New York... 163 00:11:33,359 --> 00:11:35,361 ... the name Jonathan Gold always appears 164 00:11:35,361 --> 00:11:37,947 We always like, I hope we have Jonathan Gold 165 00:11:37,947 --> 00:11:40,992 as our main critic in New York 166 00:11:40,992 --> 00:11:43,328 because I think he is very fair 167 00:11:43,328 --> 00:11:45,872 I think what separates Jonathan from the rest of the critics 168 00:11:45,872 --> 00:11:48,625 is the level of empathy higher than other people 169 00:11:48,625 --> 00:11:50,877 and I think it shows in his book - in his writing 170 00:11:50,877 --> 00:11:54,422 but this is what pisses me off about J. Gold 171 00:11:54,422 --> 00:11:58,176 I am somewhere which is very esoteric Chine .. 172 00:11:58,176 --> 00:12:02,805 Uh, Korean chicken barbecue. 173 00:12:02,805 --> 00:12:07,143 I like, "This is great. I will not tell anyone about that." 174 00:12:07,143 --> 00:12:12,273 And then, in the corner I saw Jonathan Gold's review 175 00:12:12,273 --> 00:12:14,734 and I like, "Motherfucker." 176 00:12:14,734 --> 00:12:17,487 He knows every place. I don't know how he did it. 177 00:12:17,487 --> 00:12:19,614 You know, I don't know Korea knows more about 178 00:12:19,614 --> 00:12:21,449 Korean food from Jonathan Gold. 179 00:12:21,449 --> 00:12:24,494 I don't know anyone who knows every taco stops. 180 00:12:33,461 --> 00:12:36,297 - I was in the wrong truck, There are other fish. 181 00:12:36,297 --> 00:12:37,882 - I know. That's good too. 182 00:12:37,882 --> 00:12:41,052 The - the Cuatro Vientos has, it's always there 183 00:12:41,052 --> 00:12:42,762 and sometimes the path is longer - Un taco! - Ready to order? 184 00:12:42,762 --> 00:12:45,014 - Uh, yes, of course 185 00:12:45,014 --> 00:12:46,099 186 00:12:46,099 --> 00:12:48,226 You tweeted about a, eh 187 00:12:48,226 --> 00:12:50,144 tostada this morning, Sounds really good. 188 00:12:50,144 --> 00:12:51,729 What was that? 189 00:12:51,729 --> 00:12:53,606 - Yeah. 190 00:12:53,606 --> 00:12:55,108 - Yeah. - Good. 191 00:12:56,567 --> 00:12:59,612 - I met Jonathan quite a lot. 192 00:12:59,612 --> 00:13:01,614 He entered the newsroom. 193 00:13:01,614 --> 00:13:04,450 He sees, acts like him that the place is practical 194 00:13:04,450 --> 00:13:08,454 and I think he one of the larger writers. 195 00:13:08,454 --> 00:13:09,914 It turns out he is so just a proofreader 196 00:13:09,914 --> 00:13:13,001 at that time and I was apprenticed 197 00:13:13,001 --> 00:13:14,794 He invited me to his apartment 198 00:13:14,794 --> 00:13:18,172 for his mother's pie, uh, peach 199 00:13:18,172 --> 00:13:21,217 So, um, that - that has changed a lot 200 00:13:21,217 --> 00:13:23,594 He sent roses the next day. 201 00:13:23,594 --> 00:13:26,014 - Oh thank you very much. 202 00:13:26,014 --> 00:13:27,849 - When I wake up this morning and see that tweet 203 00:13:27,849 --> 00:13:29,142 it's like, I know I have to come here. 204 00:13:29,142 --> 00:13:31,394 - Yeah. This is very spicy. 205 00:13:31,394 --> 00:13:33,813 - Oh good. - That looks good. 206 00:13:33,813 --> 00:13:38,818 - It's amazing for us, people like him, uh, that, who wrote. 207 00:13:38,818 --> 00:13:42,238 He said that, uh, this is Taco number 1 for him 208 00:13:42,238 --> 00:13:46,034 and, uh, a - actually we enter the process of getting a loan 209 00:13:46,034 --> 00:13:48,911 from Bank to get another truck. 210 00:13:48,911 --> 00:13:53,833 People ask us to go to Orange County and San Diego. 211 00:13:53,833 --> 00:13:56,044 - This, I will hold this 212 00:13:56,044 --> 00:13:59,172 - I gather that this is unusual for married people 213 00:13:59,172 --> 00:14:02,633 as long as we have, want to hang out 214 00:14:02,633 --> 00:14:06,054 together so much time, but we do. 215 00:14:06,054 --> 00:14:08,848 - You know I have wanted it for a long time You have to do this anonymity 216 00:14:08,848 --> 00:14:10,308 for a long time? 217 00:14:10,308 --> 00:14:13,936 There is still an old idea a restaurant critic 218 00:14:13,936 --> 00:14:15,813 must be anonymous, but you know... 219 00:14:15,813 --> 00:14:18,816 - Laurie can't edit my pieces again 220 00:14:18,816 --> 00:14:22,195 But he has this strange ability 221 00:14:22,195 --> 00:14:25,156 get the best from the author 222 00:14:25,156 --> 00:14:27,617 - And that, uh, are we quoting? 223 00:14:27,617 --> 00:14:30,536 - Maybe, like, 1, like, a small story of 11 inches. 224 00:14:30,536 --> 00:14:32,413 - A strange way that he did it with me 225 00:14:32,413 --> 00:14:35,708 Maybe, maybe not great for marriage 226 00:14:35,708 --> 00:14:39,879 but that, he suggested something and .. 227 00:14:41,130 --> 00:14:44,342 ... I will, like, say it really... 228 00:14:44,342 --> 00:14:47,637 N - no, that's not the way works, but on the road, like 229 00:14:47,637 --> 00:14:49,388 explain to him that it is not how it works 230 00:14:49,388 --> 00:14:51,349 I understand how it works. 231 00:14:51,349 --> 00:14:54,936 - I mean, other people have written about it, but no - not on the road .. 232 00:14:54,936 --> 00:14:57,855 I don't think in a deeper way that you want to do it 233 00:14:57,855 --> 00:15:00,900 - Do you think history anonymity in a restaurant? 234 00:15:00,900 --> 00:15:02,860 - It must be so very cool. 235 00:15:02,860 --> 00:15:05,780 [instrumental music] 236 00:15:10,910 --> 00:15:15,540 - Maybe is ideal for being anonymous 237 00:15:15,540 --> 00:15:18,501 I mean, I - of course I'm early in my career. 238 00:15:22,130 --> 00:15:26,300 punk rock boy with my friend who has a pair of pants. 239 00:15:26,300 --> 00:15:28,094 And - and we are not escorted 240 00:15:07,094 --> 00:15:30,805 to a good table near the window 241 00:15:30,805 --> 00:15:35,893 but cri, whatever criticism who is the restaurant 242 00:15:35,893 --> 00:15:39,272 will be recognized immediately. 243 00:15:42,191 --> 00:15:44,652 where someone will tweet your image 244 00:15:44,652 --> 00:15:47,488 before you arrive your first cocktail right? 245 00:15:51,117 --> 00:15:54,912 may not pass with it almost like them think them 246 00:15:51,001 --> 00:16:00,626 which means no from restaurant owners 247 00:16:00,626 --> 00:16:03,379 or very little they know what I look like 248 00:16:03,379 --> 00:16:04,839 - Oy, gevalt - I'm almost - 249 00:16:04,839 --> 00:16:07,300 - Oh, you don't know that I will use this thing? 250 00:16:07,300 --> 00:16:09,844 - Well, I heard that you are... 251 00:16:09,844 --> 00:16:13,055 - I believe it's positive value, others disagree with me 252 00:16:13,055 --> 00:16:15,516 but I always want on the consumer side 253 00:16:15,516 --> 00:16:19,562 and, uh, have eaten that experience... 254 00:16:19,562 --> 00:16:21,564 ... as usual people will have 255 00:16:21,564 --> 00:16:23,858 People have told me that is my photo in the kitchen 256 00:16:23,858 --> 00:16:25,818 but with the mask. 257 00:16:25,818 --> 00:16:28,738 [laughter] 258 00:16:28,738 --> 00:16:30,615 - I mean, I think it's important to get 259 00:16:30,615 --> 00:16:34,160 unbiased views how is a cooking place 260 00:16:34,160 --> 00:16:37,496 because they will treat people 261 00:16:37,496 --> 00:16:40,333 they know they are writing they are very different. 262 00:16:40,333 --> 00:16:43,544 Ruth Reichl's famous review of Le Cirque 263 00:16:43,544 --> 00:16:45,713 where he goes undercover like this 264 00:16:45,713 --> 00:16:48,883 shabby women and treated like garbage and then 265 00:16:48,883 --> 00:16:51,052 The next week go dressed like her and be treated 266 00:16:51,052 --> 00:16:55,181 like queen and write parallel review 267 00:16:55,181 --> 00:16:57,183 - I do everything things you have to do 268 00:16:57,183 --> 00:17:00,394 I always order with a different name 269 00:17:00,394 --> 00:17:02,897 I changed its name I am under 270 00:17:02,897 --> 00:17:05,441 I turn on the phone the number I saved under 271 00:17:05,441 --> 00:17:08,361 I mean, I have a whole series throwing out the phone 272 00:17:08,361 --> 00:17:10,029 I just use to order 273 00:17:10,029 --> 00:17:11,864 This - like type 274 00:17:11,864 --> 00:17:14,867 This - like that version of that fat person 275 00:17:14,867 --> 00:17:16,369 from "Bourne Identity," I thought. 276 00:17:16,369 --> 00:17:17,703 [laughter] 277 00:17:22,250 --> 00:17:25,211 [instrumental music] 278 00:17:38,224 --> 00:17:39,725 - Sir, nice to see you again How are you? 279 00:17:39,725 --> 00:17:42,061 - good How are you? - awesome That's great. 280 00:17:42,061 --> 00:17:44,063 - Bonsoir - Bonsoir 281 00:17:44,063 --> 00:17:46,607 - Hello 282 00:17:46,607 --> 00:17:48,859 - I never knew when Jonathan would come. 283 00:17:48,859 --> 00:17:50,736 I didn't know the night before, You know, I don't know. 284 00:17:50,736 --> 00:17:53,739 This is really the last minute, you know, I have never had a reservation 285 00:17:53,739 --> 00:17:55,491 for Jonathan Gold, 6 people. 286 00:17:55,491 --> 00:17:59,412 No, that's another name and boom, he's here. 287 00:17:59,412 --> 00:18:01,289 ♪ Do it do ♪♪ 288 00:18:01,289 --> 00:18:02,999 Panic in the kitchen. 289 00:18:02,999 --> 00:18:06,877 Nuts, nuts are bad al dente, man, you eat peas? 290 00:18:06,877 --> 00:18:09,755 You have nothing to do, John? You have nothing to do 291 00:18:09,755 --> 00:18:11,757 - No, I have to do something, but... 292 00:18:11,757 --> 00:18:13,467 - But what? 293 00:18:13,467 --> 00:18:17,096 I am always eager to cook for him because of Jonathan Gold 294 00:18:17,096 --> 00:18:21,434 is a critic who is very open to trying new things. 295 00:18:24,270 --> 00:18:26,897 - Oh my God. That's crazy. 296 00:18:26,897 --> 00:18:29,400 I saw boiled corn when I entered 297 00:18:31,944 --> 00:18:34,572 - this is good 298 00:18:34,572 --> 00:18:37,658 - So what makes Ludo Ludo? 299 00:18:37,658 --> 00:18:40,286 - Part of it grows up as a chef on the road 300 00:18:40,286 --> 00:18:42,830 which is almost non-existent. 301 00:18:42,830 --> 00:18:45,291 You know, has good fortune 302 00:18:45,291 --> 00:18:46,959 to work well in the kitchen 303 00:18:46,959 --> 00:18:49,545 with the three most interesting chefs in France and I think the way he is just... 304 00:18:49,545 --> 00:18:54,091 He loves Los Angeles. 305 00:18:54,091 --> 00:18:56,218 He - he likes to work with the results here 306 00:18:56,218 --> 00:18:59,013 307 00:18:59,013 --> 00:19:02,475 He likes the type of person who lives here 308 00:19:02,475 --> 00:19:04,143 He wants to do something personal that - that means something for him as a chef 309 00:19:04,143 --> 00:19:07,521 and Los Angeles always be the place 310 00:19:07,521 --> 00:19:10,775 Of course in the United States, where can you come 311 00:19:10,775 --> 00:19:12,693 and you can... rediscover yourself. 312 00:19:12,693 --> 00:19:17,031 - Sometimes as a chef we don't see what we create 313 00:19:17,031 --> 00:19:20,159 When Jonathan Gold gave me an amazing review 314 00:19:20,159 --> 00:19:21,827 for Ludo Bite in 2007, I didn't realize what I created 315 00:19:21,827 --> 00:19:26,040 but Jonathan opened my eyes. 316 00:19:26,040 --> 00:19:27,666 Wow! I just realized I made a new concept. 317 00:19:27,666 --> 00:19:30,586 318 00:19:32,630 --> 00:19:36,717 - Food and writing have been lost together throughout history. 319 00:19:36,717 --> 00:19:38,552 If you see France in the 18th century 320 00:19:38,552 --> 00:19:42,014 or China in the 12th century, uh, there is no food There is food and someone who writes about it 321 00:19:42,014 --> 00:19:44,683 food and someone Think about it 322 00:19:44,683 --> 00:19:46,435 and that relationship is what changes food from fuel 323 00:19:46,435 --> 00:19:49,688 for food to be an art form. 324 00:19:49,688 --> 00:19:51,941 It is true that literature, is true drama 325 00:19:51,941 --> 00:19:54,276 that's true of all cultural art forms 326 00:19:54,276 --> 00:19:56,570 write what makes them digestible 327 00:19:56,570 --> 00:19:58,656 so to speak with the masses. 328 00:19:58,656 --> 00:20:01,200 You try to tell a story 329 00:20:01,200 --> 00:20:02,702 330 00:20:02,702 --> 00:20:05,704 make that experience be something much bigger 331 00:20:05,704 --> 00:20:07,456 But at some point, everyone 332 00:20:07,456 --> 00:20:09,208 I mean, look at Yelp, This is an American thing where everyone last believes they are critics 333 00:20:09,208 --> 00:20:12,169 and they are experts. 334 00:20:12,169 --> 00:20:13,295 [instrumental music] 335 00:20:13,295 --> 00:20:16,215 - You know, now everyone thinks 336 00:20:23,556 --> 00:20:24,723 "Oh, I can go to a restaurant 337 00:20:24,723 --> 00:20:26,308 and write what I think about it." 338 00:20:26,308 --> 00:20:28,018 And if I use words like 339 00:20:28,018 --> 00:20:29,562 Brush your teeth, you know, then, "Hey, me - I'm a food writer." 340 00:20:29,562 --> 00:20:33,190 - They all seem use amazing words now. 341 00:20:33,190 --> 00:20:35,568 342 00:20:35,568 --> 00:20:39,155 "Incredible! Amazing Mexican Corn!" 343 00:20:39,155 --> 00:20:41,574 You know, it's like, it's amazing doesn't tell me anything - What is the role of critic 344 00:20:41,574 --> 00:20:43,242 is the question being asked 345 00:20:43,242 --> 00:20:44,743 and I think every area culture is now 346 00:20:44,743 --> 00:20:47,746 Because that's how it is, "Okay, why? Do I need food critics? 347 00:20:47,746 --> 00:20:49,915 " If I have Yelp, and why? I need book criticism 348 00:20:49,915 --> 00:20:51,917 if I have Amazon reviews? " 349 00:20:51,917 --> 00:20:54,086 I think what critics criticize to the table is knowledge. 350 00:20:54,086 --> 00:20:58,007 You know that he does his homework 351 00:20:58,007 --> 00:21:02,261 You know, if you really are interested in the subject 352 00:21:02,261 --> 00:21:04,430 353 00:21:04,430 --> 00:21:06,974 You will find criticism that - it talks to you 354 00:21:06,974 --> 00:21:08,309 that you don't always agree with 355 00:21:08,309 --> 00:21:09,894 But that, that's what you talk to 356 00:21:09,894 --> 00:21:12,021 you feel You will learn something from 357 00:21:12,021 --> 00:21:13,898 that you - You find a new way 358 00:21:13,898 --> 00:21:16,567 see something after reads what they have to say 359 00:21:19,278 --> 00:21:21,780 - The biggest thing in the restaurant above 360 00:21:21,780 --> 00:21:24,742 let's say the last 40 years have been 361 00:21:24,742 --> 00:21:29,079 introduction to diversity. 362 00:21:29,079 --> 00:21:30,623 [speaking in a foreign language] 363 00:21:31,874 --> 00:21:35,127 When Craig Claiborne in the 60s 364 00:21:35,127 --> 00:21:38,631 is reviewing expensive restaurants in New York 365 00:21:38,631 --> 00:21:41,133 They are almost all French. 366 00:21:41,133 --> 00:21:45,638 Then when you start getting cuisine from all directions 367 00:21:45,638 --> 00:21:50,434 You can't see cuisine as one more thing. 368 00:21:50,434 --> 00:21:52,353 There can be a thousand different restaurants 369 00:21:52,353 --> 00:21:54,188 that's good thousand different ways. 370 00:22:01,570 --> 00:22:06,242 - Two sheets of laws in 1965 and 1986 371 00:22:06,242 --> 00:22:09,578 increasing in number from migrants 372 00:22:09,578 --> 00:22:14,667 which standard quota is removed preferably migration from Europe 373 00:22:14,667 --> 00:22:20,297 open, uh, I - immigration to a much wider person. 374 00:22:20,297 --> 00:22:25,511 LA is the leading in diversity population growth. 375 00:22:25,511 --> 00:22:29,139 Immigrant populations have defined the country. 376 00:22:29,139 --> 00:22:32,101 This is defined by Los Angeles. 377 00:22:32,101 --> 00:22:34,937 We are us because of our diversity. 378 00:22:44,530 --> 00:22:47,741 - Green beans... 379 00:22:47,741 --> 00:22:50,661 ... carrots, peppers... 380 00:22:50,661 --> 00:22:56,041 - my name is tui I am a chef from Jitlada restaurant 381 00:23:07,219 --> 00:23:12,182 I never went to cooking school, but I learned from my grandmother 382 00:23:12,182 --> 00:23:15,227 He taught me everything, you know, like, uh... 383 00:23:16,520 --> 00:23:20,190 Like, uh, you know, how to grow lemongrass 384 00:23:20,190 --> 00:23:25,195 how to grow coconut, how to grow turmeric 385 00:23:25,195 --> 00:23:28,866 In 2006, I bought a Jitlada restaurant but initially we lose money. 386 00:23:28,866 --> 00:23:31,744 - We will go to Jitlada right now. 387 00:23:31,744 --> 00:23:33,954 388 00:23:33,954 --> 00:23:37,750 This is my favorite Thai restaurant in Los Angeles. 389 00:23:37,750 --> 00:23:39,585 It serves all kinds of foods Thailand 390 00:23:39,585 --> 00:23:44,673 but what specialization in this is very spicy, aromatic 391 00:23:44,673 --> 00:23:47,593 spicy cuisine from Southern Thailand 392 00:23:47,593 --> 00:23:50,888 "Warning, if you don't eat spicy food, don't order this." 393 00:23:50,888 --> 00:23:54,600 The - spicier, actually feels better 394 00:23:54,600 --> 00:23:56,101 because feeling becomes balanced 395 00:23:56,101 --> 00:23:58,687 because that's how it was designed - He has a very good ceiling on his tongue 396 00:23:58,687 --> 00:24:01,398 because he can separate, like, "Oh, you have this here." 397 00:24:01,398 --> 00:24:04,443 I - I start laughing. Especially with my Thai coffee. 398 00:24:04,443 --> 00:24:08,072 399 00:24:08,072 --> 00:24:11,116 No one in the whole world is wide, even my family 400 00:24:11,116 --> 00:24:13,661 I don't know what I put it there, but he knows. 401 00:24:15,204 --> 00:24:17,998 I learned from customers that Jonathan Gold 402 00:24:17,998 --> 00:24:21,877 important for the community in America. 403 00:24:21,877 --> 00:24:23,420 And one day he came here and they all laugh and they say 404 00:24:23,420 --> 00:24:25,464 "Jonathan Gold in front of you." 405 00:24:25,464 --> 00:24:27,132 And I remember my feet, trembling like this, like 406 00:24:27,132 --> 00:24:30,928 "Oh my God, is that Jonathan Gold?" 407 00:24:30,928 --> 00:24:32,888 But still I don't know who he is, just the name 408 00:24:32,888 --> 00:24:35,766 - Okay thank you. 409 00:24:38,310 --> 00:24:39,561 If he is, if he issues it with this 410 00:24:39,561 --> 00:24:41,313 411 00:24:41,313 --> 00:24:43,232 then you know it's hot 412 00:24:43,232 --> 00:24:46,151 - This is extra chili You can pour beef if... 413 00:24:48,779 --> 00:24:51,699 [speaking in a foreign language] 414 00:24:55,661 --> 00:24:57,162 - This, it's pretty spicy. 415 00:24:57,162 --> 00:24:58,914 [laughs] 416 00:25:01,083 --> 00:25:02,334 [laughs] 417 00:25:02,334 --> 00:25:03,335 - Oh no, it's okay 418 00:25:04,253 --> 00:25:05,671 - Oof. 419 00:25:05,671 --> 00:25:07,798 - After he wrote about our restaurant people, they wait, you know, before we open. 420 00:25:07,798 --> 00:25:11,427 They bring newspapers. 421 00:25:11,427 --> 00:25:12,886 I want to eat in the south Thai food, and after that 422 00:25:12,886 --> 00:25:16,473 We are a famous restaurant everyone knows 423 00:25:16,473 --> 00:25:19,435 I, I feel, like, very arrogant, you know 424 00:25:28,318 --> 00:25:31,989 425 00:25:31,989 --> 00:25:34,366 If he wants to study in America, do you know? 426 00:25:34,366 --> 00:25:38,495 - See you later, thank you again. yours food is always so good 427 00:25:38,495 --> 00:25:39,538 - Okay thank you. 428 00:25:40,998 --> 00:25:43,917 [instrumental music] 429 00:26:28,253 --> 00:26:30,005 - One of the amazing things about Los Angeles 430 00:26:30,005 --> 00:26:33,759 is that true is a therapy below it's fun 431 00:26:37,262 --> 00:26:38,597 And of course, some people think 432 00:26:38,597 --> 00:26:41,225 what is this place 433 00:26:41,225 --> 00:26:44,144 [instrumental music] 434 00:26:49,983 --> 00:26:53,487 - I think you can build it a city of whatever shape you like 435 00:26:53,487 --> 00:26:55,781 as long as it works 436 00:26:55,781 --> 00:26:59,618 And you say, "Work, Los Angeles works?" 437 00:26:59,618 --> 00:27:01,411 Everyone tells you it doesn't work 438 00:27:04,373 --> 00:27:07,417 - Reyner Banham book out in the early 70s 439 00:27:07,417 --> 00:27:10,671 and he is the first person who, I think makes sense 440 00:27:10,671 --> 00:27:12,923 from Los Angeles for many people. 441 00:27:12,923 --> 00:27:16,301 This change occurs in Los Angeles 442 00:27:16,301 --> 00:27:19,513 which is typical of many changes that are happening 443 00:27:19,513 --> 00:27:21,598 in another city in this country. 444 00:27:21,598 --> 00:27:25,435 And somehow or other, Los Angeles has arrived there first. 445 00:27:25,435 --> 00:27:28,438 - Right then, Los Angeles needs some explanation 446 00:27:28,438 --> 00:27:30,274 because it is usually considered 447 00:27:30,274 --> 00:27:32,901 as unspeakable messy 448 00:27:32,901 --> 00:27:34,945 although it's certainly not by me. 449 00:27:37,114 --> 00:27:39,366 - Almost all cities in the 19th century 450 00:27:39,366 --> 00:27:42,911 20th century, grew from the center to the outside. 451 00:27:42,911 --> 00:27:45,080 Los Angeles is different. 452 00:27:45,080 --> 00:27:47,082 You have started post modern settings 453 00:27:47,082 --> 00:27:50,419 where their edges are more important than the center 454 00:27:50,419 --> 00:27:53,714 And all of this different center has grown 455 00:27:53,714 --> 00:27:55,257 and they collide with each other 456 00:27:55,257 --> 00:28:00,012 becomes one giant megalopolis from 18 to 20 million people. 457 00:28:00,012 --> 00:28:04,099 And this city is so big and so vast and so diverse 458 00:28:04,099 --> 00:28:08,395 that allows for, intersections between major space 459 00:28:08,395 --> 00:28:12,649 to be occupied by people to create what they want. 460 00:28:12,649 --> 00:28:17,696 And here is where Gold, as a critic of city life comes in 461 00:28:17,696 --> 00:28:20,198 He provides a map for us. 462 00:28:20,198 --> 00:28:24,202 The culinary mapping becomes a regional cartography and through leading us, we come to understand our city. 463 00:28:24,202 --> 00:28:28,040 - Los Angeles is indeed a lot of _ independent communities. 464 00:28:30,834 --> 00:28:36,465 We have a community people here 465 00:28:36,465 --> 00:28:40,719 who doesn't cook for tourists 466 00:28:40,719 --> 00:28:43,055 and they don't cook for newspaper critics 467 00:28:43,055 --> 00:28:45,807 and they don't cook for that glory 468 00:28:45,807 --> 00:28:48,518 They are cooking because they are filling up 469 00:28:48,518 --> 00:28:51,229 special needs owned by their community. 470 00:28:51,229 --> 00:28:55,233 471 00:28:55,233 --> 00:28:59,738 Therefore, be almost... anti-melting pot 472 00:28:59,738 --> 00:29:05,077 less melting pot than a kind of large glittering mosaic. 473 00:29:05,077 --> 00:29:08,038 [instrumental music] 474 00:29:10,582 --> 00:29:13,669 There is no end to pleasure in the San Gabriel Valley. 475 00:29:13,669 --> 00:29:15,963 And this, uh, El Monte is right. 476 00:29:15,963 --> 00:29:19,591 Ca - can't you feel it? electricity and excitement in the air? 477 00:29:19,591 --> 00:29:22,594 People not from Los Angeles sometimes don't understand 478 00:29:22,594 --> 00:29:24,930 Beauty that you can find in small malls 479 00:29:24,930 --> 00:29:27,849 That's probably the best dim sum in the city today 480 00:29:27,849 --> 00:29:30,894 That's what's left, uh, Chinese Islamic restaurant 481 00:29:30,894 --> 00:29:33,438 Oh, this, this is Lupe's, this is the place I love. 482 00:29:33,438 --> 00:29:35,190 If you think I love everything 483 00:29:35,190 --> 00:29:37,567 goods in the restaurant are really disgusting. 484 00:29:40,946 --> 00:29:43,615 The place we just passed is called the famous Pho Huynh 485 00:29:43,615 --> 00:29:46,284 for boiled cow penis in your pho 486 00:29:46,284 --> 00:29:51,164 That place, uh, uh, Like the best, uh, nim nong. 487 00:29:51,164 --> 00:29:52,916 You - You have another place pho 488 00:29:52,916 --> 00:29:55,043 Oh yeah, that's it. Said, "Pho Kim." 489 00:29:55,043 --> 00:29:56,628 Or Pho Kim? 490 00:29:56,628 --> 00:29:58,588 Which one... 491 00:29:58,588 --> 00:30:02,300 Sometimes they don't, like, think about this through 492 00:30:02,300 --> 00:30:04,177 This is Yee-Lou interesting 493 00:30:04,177 --> 00:30:07,014 because it's true ancient 494 00:30:07,014 --> 00:30:10,017 The Chinese American place has been taken over by the Chinese 495 00:30:10,017 --> 00:30:12,060 who is doing American Chinese food 496 00:30:12,060 --> 00:30:15,272 as exotic food for Chinese to eat. 497 00:30:15,272 --> 00:30:17,649 Here is the Nanjing 498 00:30:17,649 --> 00:30:21,319 kitchen who specialize in in duck dishes only... 499 00:30:21,319 --> 00:30:23,113 I'm not sure it's the most Fun duck in the world 500 00:30:23,113 --> 00:30:25,032 but it's perfect on the road. 501 00:30:25,032 --> 00:30:27,492 This is kind of, boiled duck with absolute 502 00:30:27,492 --> 00:30:29,077 all fats are taken from it. 503 00:30:30,746 --> 00:30:32,664 But that's right 504 00:30:32,664 --> 00:30:34,624 You know, in this case a really ordinary place 505 00:30:34,624 --> 00:30:36,585 There, happen to be extraordinary food 506 00:30:38,003 --> 00:30:41,173 This is the miracle entry level capitalism I think 507 00:30:47,971 --> 00:30:50,182 [instrumental music] 508 00:31:00,275 --> 00:31:05,155 - My name is Genet Agonafer, and I am from Ethiopia I cam 1981, Valentine's Day with my child 509 00:31:05,155 --> 00:31:09,201 with my 5-year-old son 510 00:31:09,201 --> 00:31:11,369 Lemeneh Tefera is his name. 511 00:31:11,369 --> 00:31:14,247 I moved to LA to provide my child with education 512 00:31:14,247 --> 00:31:17,959 and I am working as a servant for years. 513 00:31:17,959 --> 00:31:21,880 I raised my son to be a servant for years. 514 00:31:21,880 --> 00:31:25,550 And that sweet kid is my child now. 515 00:31:25,550 --> 00:31:29,930 I have another picture. 516 00:31:29,930 --> 00:31:31,640 This is when he graduated from medical school 517 00:31:33,350 --> 00:31:37,062 and he has been practicing medicine for 12 years 518 00:31:37,062 --> 00:31:40,982 This space is open and my son is generous 519 00:31:43,276 --> 00:31:48,198 520 00:31:48,198 --> 00:31:53,745 take a down payment practically on all credit cards they have 521 00:31:53,745 --> 00:31:55,914 and open it for me. 522 00:31:58,083 --> 00:32:03,171 Initially I was very busy, and then 9/11 came 523 00:32:03,171 --> 00:32:06,174 and then only is really stuck 524 00:32:06,174 --> 00:32:10,846 and my child pumps money to keep the place alive 525 00:32:10,846 --> 00:32:14,599 And then suddenly, review comes 526 00:32:14,599 --> 00:32:18,270 and me, like, "Oh, my God." 527 00:32:18,270 --> 00:32:22,691 Every day I will do it people come out in a line. 528 00:32:22,691 --> 00:32:24,234 Celebrities come. 529 00:32:24,234 --> 00:32:29,114 I can't cook Doro wat is fast enough. 530 00:32:29,114 --> 00:32:34,619 But for me, it's very important to tell my child I can succeed 531 00:32:34,619 --> 00:32:38,540 and whenever he comes here, Now he is very proud. 532 00:32:47,674 --> 00:32:50,969 - It takes special temperament to be a food critic. 533 00:32:50,969 --> 00:32:54,890 You must have, you know, mix, sort of 534 00:32:54,890 --> 00:32:58,560 um, ego, and, um 535 00:32:58,560 --> 00:33:01,646 and-and flowers and obsession with food 536 00:33:01,646 --> 00:33:03,398 that very few people have. 537 00:33:05,650 --> 00:33:08,445 - My first year Outside of college, I'm working downtown 538 00:33:08,445 --> 00:33:12,741 as proofreader, and I'm bored out of my mind. 539 00:33:12,741 --> 00:33:15,493 So I decided to make it my project to eat 540 00:33:15,493 --> 00:33:19,039 in every restaurant on Pico Boulevard. 541 00:33:21,416 --> 00:33:25,503 Pico Boulevard is a type The back porch is Los Angeles. 542 00:33:25,503 --> 00:33:30,842 This goes through an extraordinary city plot. 543 00:33:30,842 --> 00:33:33,011 There is a place called Cafe El Salvador 544 00:33:33,011 --> 00:33:34,512 on the east end. 545 00:33:34,512 --> 00:33:37,682 That was one of the first Places of Salvador in the city 546 00:33:37,682 --> 00:33:41,853 and walk in The end of Santa Monica is a place called Tom No. 5 547 00:33:41,853 --> 00:33:44,356 who has my favorite chili fries in the city 548 00:33:44,356 --> 00:33:46,191 That's very good chili fried 549 00:33:48,276 --> 00:33:51,821 Pico, in a certain sense is where I learn to eat. 550 00:33:51,821 --> 00:33:55,659 I also saw my first punk rock Show in Pico, shot 551 00:33:55,659 --> 00:33:58,912 fall in love, fascinated 164 552 00:33:58,912 --> 00:34:01,581 watching a knife fight, taking cello lessons 553 00:34:01,581 --> 00:34:03,875 lift the chicken, eat Oki Dogs 554 00:34:03,875 --> 00:34:08,129 and hear X Ice-Cube Hole and Willie Dixon appear 555 00:34:08,129 --> 00:34:09,047 though not together. 556 00:34:10,757 --> 00:34:13,134 It's very interesting go every night 557 00:34:13,134 --> 00:34:16,721 and to sit somewhere and have a plate of rice and beans 558 00:34:16,721 --> 00:34:20,725 or papusas me and listen for dialogue around me 559 00:34:20,725 --> 00:34:23,019 to see stacks newspapers people read 560 00:34:23,019 --> 00:34:25,355 for, you know, see what's on TV 561 00:34:25,355 --> 00:34:27,357 it continues in the corner 562 00:34:27,357 --> 00:34:30,068 to see what people are talking about. 563 00:34:30,068 --> 00:34:34,572 I gradually start looking for things I don't know. 564 00:34:34,572 --> 00:34:38,159 Mexican restaurant not all are just Mexican restaurants 565 00:34:38,159 --> 00:34:41,329 and they are from different areas of Mexico. 566 00:34:41,329 --> 00:34:43,206 This is the time for in the early '80s 567 00:34:43,206 --> 00:34:45,834 when war is bad in Central America 568 00:34:45,834 --> 00:34:48,920 many people migrate to Los Angeles 569 00:34:48,920 --> 00:34:51,506 And they start out selling street food 570 00:34:51,506 --> 00:34:53,300 then they open small restaurant 571 00:34:53,300 --> 00:34:57,637 and when I was in the middle of my project 572 00:34:57,637 --> 00:35:00,640 they have been colonized whole strip 573 00:35:02,559 --> 00:35:04,894 I learned this very quickly as a journalist 574 00:35:04,894 --> 00:35:06,813 that if you randomly ride for someone on the road 575 00:35:06,813 --> 00:35:08,106 and start talking to them 576 00:35:08,106 --> 00:35:10,609 they might won't talk to you 577 00:35:10,609 --> 00:35:13,945 they will think you are weird and brush you. 578 00:35:13,945 --> 00:35:18,158 But if you do it inside the restaurant... 579 00:35:18,158 --> 00:35:20,285 ... You have a context where to be 580 00:35:20,285 --> 00:35:23,204 so you will sit and they will feed you 581 00:35:23,204 --> 00:35:26,291 and they will be nice to you, and maybe there will be some gossip. 582 00:35:27,792 --> 00:35:29,836 That is the year I know 583 00:35:29,836 --> 00:35:33,131 Los Angeles as Los Angeles. 584 00:35:33,131 --> 00:35:36,092 [instrumental music] 585 00:35:50,148 --> 00:35:52,108 Halo-o-o. - Hello, there baby 586 00:35:52,108 --> 00:35:53,902 How are you? - Good. 587 00:35:53,902 --> 00:35:55,403 - You see what I wrote right? 588 00:35:55,403 --> 00:35:57,072 I answer someone's tweet. 589 00:35:57,072 --> 00:36:01,534 I said, you know, "Yeah, he will do it do a Kuala Lumpur restaurant" 590 00:36:01,534 --> 00:36:02,994 But what, there are, like, one of them 591 00:36:02,994 --> 00:36:04,662 [laughs] 592 00:36:04,662 --> 00:36:06,039 - Yeah, and - and then other people's words 593 00:36:06,039 --> 00:36:07,957 "Oh, he will run out of restaurants in Koreatown." 594 00:36:07,957 --> 00:36:11,669 I - I refrain from saying, there are 900 restaurants in Koreatown 595 00:36:11,669 --> 00:36:14,506 That won't happen in your life, buddy 596 00:36:14,506 --> 00:36:16,883 Looks like I will pass it Korean food fixation. 597 00:36:17,926 --> 00:36:20,261 - Welcome back to "Good Food" That's when we checked in with our population monster 598 00:36:20,261 --> 00:36:23,264 where to eat this weekend in Los Angeles. 599 00:36:23,264 --> 00:36:26,351 600 00:36:26,351 --> 00:36:27,644 So where do we go? 601 00:36:27,644 --> 00:36:29,938 - Will be a restaurant called Soban. 602 00:36:29,938 --> 00:36:31,689 - And what's special? 603 00:36:31,689 --> 00:36:34,776 - They specifically are Galbi Jim They are famous - 604 00:36:34,776 --> 00:36:37,445 - I remember the first time I went to Jonathan Gold 605 00:36:37,445 --> 00:36:40,365 approved restaurants from "LA Weekly" 606 00:36:40,365 --> 00:36:42,492 and, you know, you drive to the mini mall 607 00:36:42,492 --> 00:36:44,202 and you, like, "Really?" 608 00:36:44,202 --> 00:36:47,539 You know, "really? I won't be taken care of?" 609 00:36:47,539 --> 00:36:50,625 I - I won't be robbed walk to this place? 610 00:36:50,625 --> 00:36:53,962 And you enter and that, like, "Oh, yes, that person 611 00:36:53,962 --> 00:36:56,131 is just people. 612 00:36:56,131 --> 00:36:57,716 - This is not El Bulli from the sandwich shop 613 00:36:57,716 --> 00:37:00,301 but he, like, uses his toy 614 00:37:00,301 --> 00:37:02,554 in making those who make very enjoyable. 615 00:37:02,554 --> 00:37:05,557 - He is much more than a food writer. 616 00:37:05,557 --> 00:37:08,393 Jonathan is a cultural commentator 617 00:37:08,393 --> 00:37:12,063 who use food and restaurants as a way 618 00:37:12,063 --> 00:37:16,234 create this little comment about modern life 619 00:37:16,234 --> 00:37:17,569 [instrumental music] 620 00:37:19,362 --> 00:37:22,282 I've eaten lately in Chego, a new restaurant 621 00:37:22,282 --> 00:37:26,870 from Kogi Auteur Roy Choi, truck-based architect 622 00:37:26,870 --> 00:37:29,414 restaurant phenomenon, and the only chef I know 623 00:37:29,414 --> 00:37:31,458 whose food is capable interesting 624 00:37:31,458 --> 00:37:35,253 several hundred people to Eagle Rock parking lot at midnight. 625 00:37:36,754 --> 00:37:38,965 Chego specializes in rice bowls 626 00:37:38,965 --> 00:37:41,926 wavy, baroque construction the splice 627 00:37:41,926 --> 00:37:45,054 all flavors of the city become big splooshes 628 00:37:45,054 --> 00:37:47,474 combinatorial DNA. 629 00:37:47,474 --> 00:37:51,269 Pickled watermelon pepper, stir-fry ong choi 630 00:37:51,269 --> 00:37:55,315 the spoiled cheese and a spurt the pork belly plate 631 00:37:55,315 --> 00:37:59,027 it's already burned as full of love with Korean chili paste 632 00:37:59,027 --> 00:38:03,198 as '64 Impala show car has been rubbed with varnish. 633 00:38:03,198 --> 00:38:04,783 - David! 634 00:38:04,783 --> 00:38:07,535 - Kogi's taco is a new paradigm a restaurant 635 00:38:07,535 --> 00:38:10,455 an art that is directed to take on Korean street food 636 00:38:10,455 --> 00:38:15,001 Previous Unimaginable in California and Seoul. 637 00:38:15,001 --> 00:38:17,128 Cheap, amazingly delicious 638 00:38:17,128 --> 00:38:20,256 and without mistake from Los Angeles. 639 00:38:20,256 --> 00:38:22,592 Foods that make you feel are connected to the beat 640 00:38:22,592 --> 00:38:25,094 from this city just by eating it 641 00:38:27,263 --> 00:38:29,307 - We are working on some new foods now This, um, this is summer this is in Los Angeles 642 00:38:29,307 --> 00:38:32,310 so we're working on tomatoes, watermelon, goat cheese 643 00:38:32,310 --> 00:38:35,313 Basil basil, soybeans, chili, ereh lemongrass. 644 00:38:35,313 --> 00:38:38,983 In all my properties, the only litmus test is 645 00:38:38,983 --> 00:38:42,278 When we eat it, can I throw it This goes down and says, "Fuck." 646 00:38:42,278 --> 00:38:46,824 647 00:38:46,824 --> 00:38:49,369 If we say that, then, then, uh 648 00:38:49,369 --> 00:38:52,163 then the plate makes it to the menu 649 00:38:52,163 --> 00:38:55,959 Small kitchens keep us healthy together, keeps us focused. 650 00:38:55,959 --> 00:38:57,377 There is no place to move 651 00:38:57,377 --> 00:39:00,338 so you have to be really creative and move here, boom. 652 00:39:00,338 --> 00:39:04,175 It's all about muscle memory, boom, boom, boom. 653 00:39:04,175 --> 00:39:07,387 It's fun, it makes for lots of jokes too 654 00:39:07,387 --> 00:39:10,974 because we meet donkeys from each other all the time. 655 00:39:10,974 --> 00:39:12,016 Especially here. 656 00:39:12,016 --> 00:39:13,810 This is the danger zone here. 657 00:39:13,810 --> 00:39:15,687 [laughter] 658 00:39:15,687 --> 00:39:18,439 You know, strange things about me - my first interaction 659 00:39:18,439 --> 00:39:21,401 with Jonathan is, uh, he helped me find out 660 00:39:21,401 --> 00:39:22,944 what we are trying to do 661 00:39:22,944 --> 00:39:24,737 Type like, "Oh, This is what Kogi does." 662 00:39:24,737 --> 00:39:26,322 We are like, like, this Justice League 663 00:39:26,322 --> 00:39:29,492 from, like, weird type, super curved hero 664 00:39:29,492 --> 00:39:31,411 who come with to feed the city, you know 665 00:39:32,662 --> 00:39:36,332 When he wrote about me, he understood... 666 00:39:36,332 --> 00:39:38,918 ... and able to articulate small 667 00:39:38,918 --> 00:39:41,588 secret, you know... 668 00:39:43,464 --> 00:39:45,633 You know, tangled nets I'm in 669 00:39:45,633 --> 00:39:49,262 that I tried to put out to the plate 670 00:39:49,262 --> 00:39:50,388 He, like, understands that. 671 00:39:50,388 --> 00:39:51,556 I never explained it to him. 672 00:39:51,556 --> 00:39:54,767 He gets exactly where it comes from 673 00:39:54,767 --> 00:39:57,395 Like, we tried to create .. 674 00:39:59,105 --> 00:40:03,484 ... how Asian children grow up and eat in their homes 675 00:40:03,484 --> 00:40:05,361 um, and what they are the refrigerator looks like 676 00:40:05,361 --> 00:40:07,530 but also how to eat stoners. 677 00:40:07,530 --> 00:40:11,993 In the first review, he was able to capture the moment 678 00:40:11,993 --> 00:40:14,454 you know, from - what is happening 679 00:40:15,913 --> 00:40:18,124 Anthony! 680 00:40:25,757 --> 00:40:27,258 - I like like Italian beef. 681 00:40:27,258 --> 00:40:30,428 They have Italian beef sandwich soaked 682 00:40:30,428 --> 00:40:31,971 Alice always says that it is soaked 683 00:40:31,971 --> 00:40:34,432 because it is ugly meat that they have to marinate. 684 00:40:34,432 --> 00:40:38,269 - modern food writing begins with Calvin Trillin. 685 00:40:38,269 --> 00:40:39,937 He said, that, You know, everyone respects 686 00:40:39,937 --> 00:40:42,315 this French restaurant no one wants to eat in 687 00:40:42,315 --> 00:40:44,609 and you know, and that is, everyday food 688 00:40:44,609 --> 00:40:47,362 it's very important, and I think that, you know 689 00:40:47,362 --> 00:40:50,698 It's like a battle call for Jonathan and Robert 690 00:40:50,698 --> 00:40:54,702 and then for many people who have followed afterwards. 691 00:40:54,702 --> 00:40:56,245 - Okay, what are we going to do here, Jonathan? 692 00:40:56,245 --> 00:40:59,666 You are the person, you Expert, you are a food person. 693 00:40:59,666 --> 00:41:02,460 - Maybe I am a sophomore in college 694 00:41:02,460 --> 00:41:05,004 and me, I sit at home. 695 00:41:05,004 --> 00:41:07,465 Among the books in this study are "American Fried" 696 00:41:07,465 --> 00:41:09,592 You know, Calvin Trillin's first book 697 00:41:09,592 --> 00:41:15,181 And I read it, and indeed was truly fascinated by it. 698 00:41:15,181 --> 00:41:18,226 I read "American Fried" and "Alice, Come Eat" Many times. 699 00:41:18,226 --> 00:41:20,019 Yes, I - I imitate him really blindly when I start 700 00:41:20,019 --> 00:41:24,982 Trillin is writing about eating 701 00:41:24,982 --> 00:41:26,859 he is writing eating culture 702 00:41:26,859 --> 00:41:30,613 and it's clear the way to go 703 00:41:30,613 --> 00:41:35,827 704 00:41:35,827 --> 00:41:37,954 - You know, I always say that if I'm in a strange city 705 00:41:37,954 --> 00:41:41,916 and I don't know where to eat, I went to the motel officer 706 00:41:41,916 --> 00:41:44,168 take him with a tie and pull him to the table 707 00:41:44,168 --> 00:41:46,004 just to attract his attention 708 00:41:46,004 --> 00:41:50,842 and I said, "Not where did you take it your parents 709 00:41:50,842 --> 00:41:53,386 " for them 25th birthday 710 00:41:53,386 --> 00:41:56,013 "where you went to night you arrived home 711 00:41:56,013 --> 00:41:58,516 after 13 months in Korea." 712 00:41:58,516 --> 00:42:01,018 And second place is very good 713 00:42:01,018 --> 00:42:02,979 - And I think you - your idea 714 00:42:02,979 --> 00:42:05,440 It's almost become the norm now 715 00:42:05,440 --> 00:42:08,693 that if you will be newspaper critic or writer 716 00:42:08,693 --> 00:42:12,071 in a big city, you are better 717 00:42:12,071 --> 00:42:15,450 You know, you know between 6 good ribs stand 718 00:42:15,450 --> 00:42:17,201 which ones are up and which are down. 719 00:42:17,201 --> 00:42:19,871 - Why? That's not right. 720 00:42:19,871 --> 00:42:21,706 [instrumental music] 721 00:43:00,578 --> 00:43:04,415 - This - this, uh, King Taco is loved. 722 00:43:05,708 --> 00:43:07,668 This is not necessarily my favorite but it's very good taco, you know, pastor al is pretty good 723 00:43:07,668 --> 00:43:12,882 and one of the big things about that is they are actually 724 00:43:12,882 --> 00:43:14,717 have a truck parked outside the restaurant 725 00:43:14,717 --> 00:43:18,095 sort of this canopy, place of honor 726 00:43:18,095 --> 00:43:21,557 727 00:43:21,557 --> 00:43:24,185 and if you come weekend night, there will be 728 00:43:24,185 --> 00:43:27,188 one hour waiting for a truck, and you can walk over 729 00:43:27,188 --> 00:43:30,358 to the table in the restaurant itself 730 00:43:30,358 --> 00:43:32,443 I've brought tacos in trucks and in restaurants 731 00:43:32,443 --> 00:43:36,364 and that's right, actually want the one from the truck 732 00:43:36,364 --> 00:43:42,662 But, I always wonder why taco 733 00:43:42,662 --> 00:43:44,247 really respect the truck. 734 00:43:45,790 --> 00:43:51,170 My theory is that tacos eat are... almost verbs. 735 00:43:51,170 --> 00:43:53,047 Taco must be a verb, right... 736 00:43:53,047 --> 00:43:57,134 The - the, the tortilla, the tortilla is hot, the - the, the meat is hot 737 00:43:57,134 --> 00:44:00,930 they combine, The sauce is sliced on it 738 00:44:00,930 --> 00:44:03,474 and then you almost eat it in one continuous motion 739 00:44:03,474 --> 00:44:06,644 from the way it comes from call to the man to the counter. 740 00:44:08,729 --> 00:44:11,065 I know it's too romantic. 741 00:44:15,444 --> 00:44:17,530 [chat is not clear on TV] 742 00:44:36,007 --> 00:44:37,842 [chuckles] 743 00:44:41,888 --> 00:44:43,389 Yes. 744 00:44:44,390 --> 00:44:46,767 Yes, that's a good place. 745 00:44:46,767 --> 00:44:49,312 And talking about that, um... 746 00:44:50,688 --> 00:44:52,690 ... if, if we are looking for someone to picnic 747 00:44:52,690 --> 00:44:55,359 if we do sandwich things .. 748 00:44:55,359 --> 00:44:56,777 I mean, there are some interesting people doing sandwiches now, But, uh, Fred Eric 749 00:44:56,777 --> 00:45:00,323 have this new place attached to the Tiara 750 00:45:00,323 --> 00:45:02,658 called Delish. 751 00:45:02,658 --> 00:45:04,869 752 00:45:04,869 --> 00:45:08,164 I am definitely a big procrastinator I guess when I have to have attention span for something 753 00:45:08,164 --> 00:45:10,041 I - I have a attention span for something, but... 754 00:45:10,041 --> 00:45:13,669 ... this - it's difficult, It's hard to explain. 755 00:45:15,463 --> 00:45:18,758 So for some reason you want that right? 756 00:45:20,426 --> 00:45:22,637 - Yeah, very good. I think it's perfect. 757 00:45:22,637 --> 00:45:25,973 - I mean, o - otherwise I will send the phone. 758 00:45:25,973 --> 00:45:29,352 [laughs] 759 00:45:29,352 --> 00:45:31,562 A - as I want 760 00:45:31,562 --> 00:45:34,231 Stay like new... 761 00:45:34,231 --> 00:45:35,942 Maybe if the internet goes 762 00:45:35,942 --> 00:45:37,568 but even before the internet, I mean, I will always find 763 00:45:37,568 --> 00:45:42,740 764 00:45:42,740 --> 00:45:45,117 You know, 12 books and 17 magazines 765 00:45:45,117 --> 00:45:47,495 I have to read before I can complete an article 766 00:45:47,495 --> 00:45:50,414 Now, I have the attention span of a mosquito. 767 00:45:56,128 --> 00:45:58,172 - Become the editor of Jonathan 768 00:45:58,172 --> 00:46:02,259 It's like being someone, Like a teen stalker for me. 769 00:46:02,259 --> 00:46:04,595 I know he won't do it rotate the part 770 00:46:04,595 --> 00:46:06,639 even if he agrees to do it 771 00:46:06,639 --> 00:46:09,058 and then I realize that what he will take 772 00:46:09,058 --> 00:46:13,604 will, you know, border the psychotic level 773 00:46:13,604 --> 00:46:17,942 of e-mail and telephone and text abuse. 774 00:46:17,942 --> 00:46:19,527 [cellphone] 775 00:46:21,112 --> 00:46:23,948 - Hm, I will call when I return. 776 00:46:27,743 --> 00:46:30,871 You know, actually I go for someone special in the author block 777 00:46:30,871 --> 00:46:36,460 I mean, that's the problem, and he just raised his hands up 778 00:46:36,460 --> 00:46:39,505 and I usually block writers, I'm a person who can't write. 779 00:46:39,505 --> 00:46:42,550 There is something that makes them unable to write 780 00:46:42,550 --> 00:46:48,806 but you issue 150,000 words years. Obviously you are writing. 781 00:46:48,806 --> 00:46:52,852 That, I don't, I don't deny it what you experience 782 00:46:52,852 --> 00:46:55,938 is something, but I have don't know what it is 783 00:46:55,938 --> 00:46:58,441 I mean, I can sit down and I can say that "Oh, you need to do it this is the first week piece" 784 00:46:58,441 --> 00:47:00,026 785 00:47:00,026 --> 00:47:04,363 but I end up like, you know, torturing a paragraph for 786 00:47:06,657 --> 00:47:08,492 and then someone calls and starts shouting at me 787 00:47:08,492 --> 00:47:12,163 and the remaining parts will be done in one and a half hours. 788 00:47:14,832 --> 00:47:17,084 - So... alright 789 00:47:17,084 --> 00:47:19,045 What else we need to talk about is what you think 790 00:47:19,045 --> 00:47:22,840 You might do from the review for the next two weeks. 791 00:47:22,840 --> 00:47:26,343 - I think next week will, um 792 00:47:26,343 --> 00:47:29,597 this is new Szechuan restaurant in... 793 00:47:31,390 --> 00:47:32,975 ... Surprise, Alhambra. 794 00:47:32,975 --> 00:47:35,186 - Mm-hmm. 795 00:47:35,186 --> 00:47:39,857 - That, um, is called Taste Chengdu. 796 00:47:39,857 --> 00:47:42,943 Like, there is, um, There are dishes on the menu 797 00:47:42,943 --> 00:47:44,904 is called quite intriguing, uh... 798 00:47:47,198 --> 00:47:50,201 little sister spicy rabbit 799 00:47:50,201 --> 00:47:51,702 - Yeah, good 800 00:47:51,702 --> 00:47:53,579 - I don't think they really cook - 801 00:47:53,579 --> 00:47:54,872 - Rabbit? 802 00:47:54,872 --> 00:47:56,373 - Oh, that's a rabbit, but I don't think 803 00:47:56,373 --> 00:47:58,334 it's like, the little sister's rabbit. 804 00:47:58,334 --> 00:48:00,795 I think it's in style .. 805 00:48:02,046 --> 00:48:04,215 ... the way sister will succeed 806 00:48:04,215 --> 00:48:05,633 unless it's actually - 807 00:48:05,633 --> 00:48:09,512 - I'm kind of like him a few days younger 808 00:48:09,512 --> 00:48:11,597 smarter brother 809 00:48:11,597 --> 00:48:14,558 um, and I am the first born, and I am responsible 810 00:48:14,558 --> 00:48:16,852 and I have to make the train run on time 811 00:48:16,852 --> 00:48:21,315 and he is funny, smart, who is talented, and I, uh 812 00:48:21,315 --> 00:48:24,235 There might be some love buried there deep inside 813 00:48:24,235 --> 00:48:26,612 but um, uh... 814 00:48:29,740 --> 00:48:33,244 ... this, sometimes the role of is difficult to play. 815 00:48:33,244 --> 00:48:35,579 So, how difficult it is, okay 816 00:48:35,579 --> 00:48:39,083 Will it happen for photos there? 817 00:48:39,083 --> 00:48:40,584 Will there be language barriers? 818 00:48:40,584 --> 00:48:42,211 There will be language barriers 819 00:48:42,211 --> 00:48:43,963 - We need to be careful this afternoon 820 00:48:43,963 --> 00:48:46,340 - Alright, I'll do that - Okay, um - 821 00:48:46,340 --> 00:48:47,424 - You come with livestock 822 00:48:47,424 --> 00:48:48,425 prod I will come with a copy. 823 00:48:48,425 --> 00:48:49,760 - awesome 824 00:48:53,639 --> 00:48:55,558 - taste Chengdu 825 00:48:55,558 --> 00:48:57,434 Everyone is happy with that. 826 00:48:57,434 --> 00:49:00,312 Not because we don't have it yet Chengdu food style here before but freshness, which, vividness of taste 827 00:49:00,312 --> 00:49:05,568 the fact that everything isn't just whipped 828 00:49:05,568 --> 00:49:08,237 with a sea of chili 829 00:49:08,237 --> 00:49:12,783 make that kind of place a very interesting place 830 00:49:12,783 --> 00:49:15,327 One thing I tried never, never will do it 831 00:49:16,912 --> 00:49:19,456 is to pretend skills that I don't have 832 00:49:19,456 --> 00:49:22,501 I like to come there the way 833 00:49:22,501 --> 00:49:25,129 which I consider most of me readers will come there .. 834 00:49:25,129 --> 00:49:28,424 ... that I don't have to, no more than they do 835 00:49:28,424 --> 00:49:31,635 836 00:49:31,635 --> 00:49:36,265 and I find out Chengdu is the biggest city 837 00:49:36,265 --> 00:49:38,934 and the capital city from Sichuan right 838 00:49:38,934 --> 00:49:41,812 Um, it's inland, so there probably won't 839 00:49:41,812 --> 00:49:43,230 lots of seafood... 840 00:49:44,523 --> 00:49:46,317 ... even though this is all images, like 841 00:49:46,317 --> 00:49:48,819 You know, abalone crabs. 842 00:49:51,947 --> 00:49:55,910 I rarely record inside a restaurant. 843 00:49:55,910 --> 00:50:01,248 I am more involved in, sort of, observing music from food. 844 00:50:01,248 --> 00:50:04,960 I mean, you can record it When you have sex too 845 00:50:04,960 --> 00:50:08,631 but you will, sort of, lose something 846 00:50:08,631 --> 00:50:11,800 and I go to the restaurant usually 4 or 5 times 847 00:50:11,800 --> 00:50:13,594 before I examine it. 848 00:50:13,594 --> 00:50:18,599 In the case of a place where the cooking is is familiar to me 849 00:50:18,599 --> 00:50:21,477 I can go a lot, lots more often than that 850 00:50:21,477 --> 00:50:23,938 I think my record is 17. 851 00:50:26,106 --> 00:50:28,025 [sighs] 852 00:50:31,946 --> 00:50:35,950 Eh, let's go ... fish with green chili 853 00:50:35,950 --> 00:50:38,535 They - they don't have chicken dishes that you like 854 00:50:38,535 --> 00:50:39,703 but they have, uh - 855 00:50:39,703 --> 00:50:41,372 - It's okay. I mean, I'm not - 856 00:50:41,372 --> 00:50:45,000 - And dumplings with - - Good. 857 00:50:45,000 --> 00:50:46,210 - I have thought that you would like 858 00:50:46,210 --> 00:50:47,836 boiled fish water. 859 00:50:47,836 --> 00:50:50,798 Lots, uh, Sichuan pepper... 860 00:50:50,798 --> 00:50:52,424 [instrumental music] 861 00:51:09,400 --> 00:51:11,735 - How are you doing today? Nice to meet you again. 862 00:51:11,735 --> 00:51:13,904 - Nice to meet you too Thank you. 863 00:51:16,657 --> 00:51:18,450 I mean the meaning of food discovery something that you have never before been happy about. 864 00:51:18,450 --> 00:51:22,204 But what's better? I think 865 00:51:22,204 --> 00:51:26,125 You can pass it excitement 866 00:51:26,125 --> 00:51:29,420 You pass it phase is crazy 867 00:51:29,420 --> 00:51:31,297 for the next pair of food and maybe also 868 00:51:31,297 --> 00:51:33,924 If you are truly lucky, you arrive at that place understanding. 869 00:51:33,924 --> 00:51:39,054 I mean, I won't pretend to know anything 870 00:51:39,054 --> 00:51:42,683 about Burma from having Two dozen Burmese foods, right? 871 00:51:42,683 --> 00:51:47,146 But there are, uh, of course a point where I think 872 00:51:47,146 --> 00:51:50,899 873 00:51:50,899 --> 00:51:53,610 I know something about Burma to have that 874 00:51:53,610 --> 00:51:57,281 and this, like, seeing movies or the like 875 00:51:57,281 --> 00:51:58,699 like seeing a documentary 876 00:51:58,699 --> 00:52:00,701 This gives you the illusion of understanding things 877 00:52:00,701 --> 00:52:03,120 and maybe you have a difference context to enter items 878 00:52:03,120 --> 00:52:06,957 and sometimes that, That's all you can ask for 879 00:52:06,957 --> 00:52:10,461 and sometimes that's enough. 880 00:52:10,461 --> 00:52:12,755 There is no shortage of bean sprouts. 881 00:52:12,755 --> 00:52:14,590 - The book we have to write 882 00:52:14,590 --> 00:52:18,135 will be a kind of popular, populist thing 883 00:52:18,135 --> 00:52:20,387 in all of these communities and who does what 884 00:52:20,387 --> 00:52:23,932 and all the things I always want to know the answer 885 00:52:23,932 --> 00:52:27,478 Between us, the number of hours spent 886 00:52:27,478 --> 00:52:30,814 not writing the book... 887 00:52:30,814 --> 00:52:32,691 ... it will, it will take a lifetime 888 00:52:32,691 --> 00:52:34,485 not to write the book. 889 00:52:36,403 --> 00:52:38,322 - Yes, of course. - Good. 890 00:52:40,991 --> 00:52:43,994 - You might find it this Chengdu-style cuisine 891 00:52:43,994 --> 00:52:46,705 lighter, cleaner, and less possible to wake you up 892 00:52:46,705 --> 00:52:50,292 in the middle of the night with chili oil induced nightmares 893 00:52:50,292 --> 00:52:53,379 The food is still quite spicy, seasoned with a broad array 894 00:52:53,379 --> 00:52:56,632 from fresh, dry, pickled and ground chili. 895 00:52:56,632 --> 00:52:59,218 Almost electricity costs from pepper 896 00:52:59,218 --> 00:53:02,846 bring out flavor from filets and chili. 897 00:53:02,846 --> 00:53:05,516 The taste melts around your lips and tongue 898 00:53:05,516 --> 00:53:09,061 with a strange spirit a sign of Las Vegas blinking 899 00:53:09,061 --> 00:53:11,146 where pepper sauce with prince 900 00:53:11,146 --> 00:53:13,565 obliterates everything in the way 901 00:53:13,565 --> 00:53:17,069 like mysterious fun blows in the mouth 902 00:53:42,010 --> 00:53:44,096 [key clacking] 903 00:53:44,096 --> 00:53:46,140 - That little secret that people don't understand 904 00:53:46,140 --> 00:53:50,144 Jonathan's writing is the way he uses the second person 905 00:53:50,144 --> 00:53:52,396 He will start a review something like 906 00:53:52,396 --> 00:53:56,024 um, you might have found in the past 907 00:53:56,024 --> 00:53:59,486 that deer penis is not really worth the effort 908 00:53:59,486 --> 00:54:04,324 that, that amount is prone and fat and bone 909 00:54:04,324 --> 00:54:08,036 only for high proportion with the number of fibrous meat 910 00:54:08,036 --> 00:54:09,413 You can do it, 911 00:54:09,413 --> 00:54:12,082 but that's because you never have a penis deer 912 00:54:12,082 --> 00:54:15,043 in this Vietnamese restaurant which specializes in it. 913 00:54:15,043 --> 00:54:18,422 In the first paragraph, he forms a bond with the reader. 914 00:54:18,422 --> 00:54:22,259 You know, you and I are people who eat deer penis and you also know readers 915 00:54:22,259 --> 00:54:24,761 although 99.9% of readers 916 00:54:24,761 --> 00:54:28,015 never ordered or eaten deer penis 917 00:54:28,015 --> 00:54:31,101 He takes you to his desk that way 918 00:54:31,101 --> 00:54:33,979 I've never seen anything else the restaurant writer did it 919 00:54:33,979 --> 00:54:36,648 [instrumental music] 920 00:54:37,733 --> 00:54:39,276 921 00:54:41,069 --> 00:54:43,322 - Need a lot of writing and great stories 922 00:54:43,322 --> 00:54:47,701 to increase food criticism for what Jonathan 923 00:54:47,701 --> 00:54:50,537 does and Jonathan are the first Pulitzer Prize winners for food criticism 924 00:54:50,537 --> 00:54:53,081 - The fact that someone can write about food in such a way 925 00:54:53,081 --> 00:54:56,168 to get attention people not in the world of food 926 00:54:56,168 --> 00:54:58,170 But in the world of journalism, in the world of cultural criticism 927 00:54:58,170 --> 00:55:01,798 For me it's very important. 928 00:55:01,798 --> 00:55:03,967 - I think of the fact he got Pulitzer for food criticism 929 00:55:03,967 --> 00:55:08,805 sort of put a stamp on food as, um, subject 930 00:55:08,805 --> 00:55:15,562 feasible, serious investigation. 931 00:55:15,562 --> 00:55:18,857 932 00:55:18,857 --> 00:55:21,318 - Thank you, - are you interested in wine 933 00:55:21,318 --> 00:55:23,111 - Coffee is fine Thank you. - Right Sounds good. 934 00:55:23,111 --> 00:55:24,821 - Have you ever done any diet? 935 00:55:24,821 --> 00:55:28,659 Have you ever made anything sort of dietary restrictions? 936 00:55:28,659 --> 00:55:30,118 - Hm, no 937 00:55:30,118 --> 00:55:31,912 [both laugh] 938 00:55:33,330 --> 00:55:35,123 - I mean, you've read all these things, like 939 00:55:35,123 --> 00:55:37,167 cooking actually what makes us human 940 00:55:37,167 --> 00:55:41,547 - Right I have to explain it to my 4 year old. Like, what's difficult... 941 00:55:41,547 --> 00:55:42,756 It feels like, he's like, "We're animals." 942 00:55:42,756 --> 00:55:43,715 I, like, "Yes, we are animals." He was like 943 00:55:43,715 --> 00:55:45,092 "So what makes us people?" 944 00:55:45,092 --> 00:55:47,344 And I like, "Okay, we cook." 945 00:55:47,344 --> 00:55:49,096 And he seemed satisfied with that. 946 00:55:49,096 --> 00:55:51,014 That's the difference between me and monkey 947 00:55:51,014 --> 00:55:53,225 because I will puree bananas for you 948 00:55:53,225 --> 00:55:55,894 and he will be fair throw at you 949 00:55:55,894 --> 00:55:57,479 So what, what's the next thing 950 00:55:57,479 --> 00:55:59,523 for "Lucky Peach" will be? 951 00:55:59,523 --> 00:56:01,525 Or what idea can I steal from you? 952 00:56:01,525 --> 00:56:03,402 then put in "Lucky Peach?" 953 00:56:03,402 --> 00:56:05,279 I took hagfish 954 00:56:05,279 --> 00:56:07,698 and you threaten to take me to the hagfish restaurant 955 00:56:07,698 --> 00:56:09,533 - I don't threaten you, do you go to hagfish restaurant? 956 00:56:09,533 --> 00:56:11,159 - I have never been to a hagfish restaurant [chuckles] 957 00:56:11,159 --> 00:56:12,119 I don't think so you're making love to me 958 00:56:16,748 --> 00:56:19,001 but your description from hagfish... 959 00:56:19,001 --> 00:56:21,962 - Well, the first thing hagfish is not 960 00:56:21,962 --> 00:56:25,215 very tasty. 961 00:56:25,215 --> 00:56:28,093 It's like eels, is only much worse 962 00:56:28,093 --> 00:56:30,762 Very? Like muddier? Blander? 963 00:56:30,762 --> 00:56:33,473 - This is blah, it's blander 964 00:56:33,473 --> 00:56:36,059 and the gelatin filet 965 00:56:36,059 --> 00:56:40,564 but sort of everything about hagfish 966 00:56:40,564 --> 00:56:42,482 annoying right? 967 00:56:42,482 --> 00:56:44,192 The fact that this is it strange hybrid 968 00:56:44,192 --> 00:56:46,737 from vertebrates and invertebrates 969 00:56:46,737 --> 00:56:48,238 it's really sort of an early species and... 970 00:56:48,238 --> 00:56:51,325 971 00:56:51,325 --> 00:56:54,369 This has a skull, but it's true don't have other bones 972 00:56:54,369 --> 00:56:57,122 - And then the slime. - And the slime. 973 00:57:01,501 --> 00:57:06,423 and the bucket will change for solid slime in seconds. 974 00:57:06,423 --> 00:57:08,800 - Jonathan doesn't write about food because it's weird 975 00:57:08,800 --> 00:57:12,137 like that it doesn't, I don't think it's just a single motivator although he, like, is unique in finding 976 00:57:12,137 --> 00:57:15,766 terrible things to eat 977 00:57:15,766 --> 00:57:18,602 Um, he wrote about it because people eat it 978 00:57:18,602 --> 00:57:23,440 and that's the part their culture and their world 979 00:57:23,440 --> 00:57:25,609 and if you learn about it, then you are connected to them. 980 00:57:25,609 --> 00:57:29,154 981 00:57:38,914 --> 00:57:42,793 - Now we go down Westwood Boulevard 982 00:57:42,793 --> 00:57:45,462 and heading for, what for years 983 00:57:45,462 --> 00:57:48,548 Junior's Deli, which is a deli 984 00:57:48,548 --> 00:57:50,592 my family grew up. 985 00:57:50,592 --> 00:57:54,971 Because, uh, reformed Jewish families in Los Angeles 986 00:57:54,971 --> 00:57:59,601 sometimes like Your deli tells more 987 00:57:59,601 --> 00:58:03,397 of who you are and what is your status 988 00:58:03,397 --> 00:58:07,317 and how you grow up than the show you are headed for. 989 00:58:07,317 --> 00:58:09,361 If your family goes to Nate'n Al's 990 00:58:09,361 --> 00:58:12,030 You are, You are rather fancy. 991 00:58:12,030 --> 00:58:15,701 If your family goes, uh... 992 00:58:15,701 --> 00:58:19,663 ... Table Labels, You may 993 00:58:19,663 --> 00:58:22,290 quite close to the working class, but if your family goes 994 00:58:22,290 --> 00:58:24,876 for Junior, you, you OK 995 00:58:42,602 --> 00:58:44,396 You've been here before 996 00:58:44,396 --> 00:58:46,148 - no, I never 997 00:58:46,148 --> 00:58:47,899 - Very similar a social scene in Tehran 998 00:58:47,899 --> 00:58:52,195 it reproduces itself, like 30 years later. 999 00:58:54,364 --> 00:58:56,491 - that's cool 1000 00:58:56,491 --> 00:58:57,909 - Very funny everyone thinks 1001 00:58:57,909 --> 00:59:00,662 We have this kind of gourmet care, right? 1002 00:59:00,662 --> 00:59:03,165 Just remembering that We ate when we were little. 1003 00:59:03,165 --> 00:59:04,291 - What do you mean? 1004 00:59:04,291 --> 00:59:06,626 Iceberg, salad... 1005 00:59:06,626 --> 00:59:10,505 Um, orange jello, French fries 1006 00:59:10,505 --> 00:59:13,049 cream wafer sticks, and Dr. Pepper. 1007 00:59:13,049 --> 00:59:15,510 It's like perfect food. What are you talking about? 1008 00:59:15,510 --> 00:59:17,262 - If you explain Like that, it looks like 1009 00:59:17,262 --> 00:59:20,891 one of the last special foods the request of the prisoner... 1010 00:59:20,891 --> 00:59:22,225 [laughs] 1011 00:59:22,225 --> 00:59:24,102 ... before they go to an electric chair 1012 00:59:24,102 --> 00:59:25,228 - We only have that much. 1013 00:59:25,228 --> 00:59:28,148 - We do have that a lot. 1014 00:59:28,148 --> 00:59:31,026 - So have you eaten every species that is threatened lately? 1015 00:59:31,026 --> 00:59:32,569 - Yes, I have an orthopedic souffle. 1016 00:59:32,569 --> 00:59:35,405 That, that's fun. 1017 00:59:35,405 --> 00:59:37,491 My brother and I are very different. 1018 00:59:37,491 --> 00:59:39,326 I mean, he is an environment. 1019 00:59:39,326 --> 00:59:43,413 He lives to save the ocean. 1020 00:59:43,413 --> 00:59:47,167 And I am the person who bought the truck 1021 00:59:47,167 --> 00:59:49,252 that is the most polluting vehicles 1022 00:59:49,252 --> 00:59:51,588 in that year's consumer report. 1023 00:59:51,588 --> 00:59:55,258 I'm not proud of that, but Mark definitely showed me 1024 00:59:55,258 --> 00:59:58,428 - Dinner at the golden table Always blood sports 1025 00:59:58,428 --> 01:00:00,889 because we are all brothers always 1026 01:00:00,889 --> 01:00:03,099 muttering each other all the time. 1027 01:00:03,099 --> 01:00:07,437 How can you say, "OK, this is amazing sushi place" 1028 01:00:07,437 --> 01:00:09,272 and say, "Don't eat blue fins" 1029 01:00:09,272 --> 01:00:11,900 when you still get people go to that place? 1030 01:00:11,900 --> 01:00:15,445 - Well, I, I'm lower than that. 1031 01:00:15,445 --> 01:00:18,031 - Mm, yes and no 1032 01:00:18,031 --> 01:00:21,284 You're the one in a Korean whale tour. 1033 01:00:21,284 --> 01:00:23,203 I have to be an environment 1034 01:00:23,203 --> 01:00:26,498 because Jonathan eats everything I want to save 1035 01:00:26,498 --> 01:00:28,875 The question is whether or not, you go straight to the point 1036 01:00:28,875 --> 01:00:31,962 o - using regulations mechanisms to own this country 1037 01:00:31,962 --> 01:00:33,505 According to the example. 1038 01:00:33,505 --> 01:00:36,132 I often think that of my greatest achievements 1039 01:00:36,132 --> 01:00:42,138 makes my sister write and an op-ed piece on the bill 1040 01:00:42,138 --> 01:00:46,184 that we encourage to ban sale of shark fin products 1041 01:00:46,184 --> 01:00:47,894 in the state of California. 1042 01:00:47,894 --> 01:00:49,813 Trust me, I want to see, you know 1043 01:00:49,813 --> 01:00:51,731 Shark fin soup is banned tomorrow .. 1044 01:00:51,731 --> 01:00:55,402 It took 4 months to get it to write the section 1045 01:00:55,402 --> 01:00:59,406 but I read the part and my anger melted. 1046 01:00:59,406 --> 01:01:01,658 "But as much as that you might love conpoy 1047 01:01:01,658 --> 01:01:06,162 " dry flotation bladder, crab eggs, boiled fish cheeks 1048 01:01:06,162 --> 01:01:09,165 "and other esotericism Cantonese seafood cuisine 1049 01:01:09,165 --> 01:01:11,334 " It's hard to work an appetite 1050 01:01:11,334 --> 01:01:14,462 for bitter taste from extinction. " 1051 01:01:14,462 --> 01:01:17,173 I have people who work on the bill says that it is one 1052 01:01:19,885 --> 01:01:23,346 to get the bill passed, and so on how well he writes 1053 01:01:23,346 --> 01:01:24,431 really makes a big difference. 1054 01:01:24,431 --> 01:01:27,225 [music instrumental] 1055 01:01:30,061 --> 01:01:31,354 - My father always wants to become a writer 1056 01:01:31,354 --> 01:01:35,609 and he is very talented. 1057 01:01:35,609 --> 01:01:39,029 - My father is probably the most overeducated probation officer in the history of from Los Angeles County. 1058 01:01:39,029 --> 01:01:42,699 He really wants to be an Professor of English 1059 01:01:42,699 --> 01:01:45,285 He is just his dissertation in American Literature 1060 01:01:45,285 --> 01:01:48,955 but the LA County trial period pays more 1061 01:01:48,955 --> 01:01:52,292 rather than being an English professor. 1062 01:01:52,292 --> 01:01:55,003 So, our household is all about culture 1063 01:01:55,003 --> 01:01:58,298 and we are only affected, You know, there is a book we want. 1064 01:01:58,298 --> 01:02:02,719 It doesn't matter what we are the financial situation is 1065 01:02:02,719 --> 01:02:04,888 1066 01:02:04,888 --> 01:02:06,056 the book will appear 1067 01:02:06,056 --> 01:02:07,933 - always there play music 1068 01:02:07,933 --> 01:02:10,185 Usually my father's madness 1069 01:02:10,185 --> 01:02:13,480 well Mahler or Italian opera. 1070 01:02:13,480 --> 01:02:16,566 And there is an idea that the culture of the nation 1071 01:02:16,566 --> 01:02:19,444 Sort of like flowing through our living room. 1072 01:02:22,948 --> 01:02:23,949 - What are you doing? 1073 01:02:23,949 --> 01:02:26,201 - Oh, alright, yeah 1074 01:02:26,201 --> 01:02:29,454 Okay, so here, here it is. 1075 01:02:29,454 --> 01:02:30,956 - Oh, I remember this 1076 01:02:30,956 --> 01:02:32,082 This is in you painting class 1077 01:02:32,082 --> 01:02:35,251 - Yeah. - dark stuff 1078 01:02:35,251 --> 01:02:38,672 Isabel is always interested, even when very young, 4 or 5 1079 01:02:38,672 --> 01:02:43,176 He used to paint and draw pictures like unrelenting 1080 01:02:43,176 --> 01:02:45,512 I mean, it must be difficult live with a writer, right? 1081 01:02:45,512 --> 01:02:47,263 I mean, people are there 1082 01:02:47,263 --> 01:02:49,516 which basically evaluates or you think the judge 1083 01:02:49,516 --> 01:02:51,685 every single sentence you say 1084 01:02:51,685 --> 01:02:54,104 Maybe that's why he entered the cartoon 1085 01:02:54,104 --> 01:02:56,189 "Cool okapis!" 1086 01:02:56,189 --> 01:02:57,691 Looks like I have, like, lips are split 1087 01:02:57,691 --> 01:02:59,859 like a dog, that's good 1088 01:02:59,859 --> 01:03:02,278 [instrumental music] 1089 01:03:07,325 --> 01:03:10,120 I hope my children are adults with culture on the road 1090 01:03:10,120 --> 01:03:11,913 that I grew up with culture. 1091 01:03:11,913 --> 01:03:15,917 I mean, I do this where do we go to the museum 1092 01:03:20,463 --> 01:03:22,966 and everyone things about that 1093 01:03:22,966 --> 01:03:27,971 And ideas for to spend a lot of time 1094 01:03:27,971 --> 01:03:31,516 with your child and have the dialog about that 1095 01:03:31,516 --> 01:03:34,811 is - just beautiful 1096 01:03:34,811 --> 01:03:36,730 It's all like congressman 1097 01:03:36,730 --> 01:03:37,897 or what, right? 1098 01:03:37,897 --> 01:03:39,983 - Yeah, yeah 1099 01:03:39,983 --> 01:03:43,361 - None of them are so trigger about this, right? 1100 01:03:43,361 --> 01:03:46,322 - I mean, I think so the first caricature. 1101 01:03:46,322 --> 01:03:49,325 And he is very cruel in his things 1102 01:03:49,325 --> 01:03:51,036 But he also like very accurate 1103 01:04:00,170 --> 01:04:03,381 and you only describe something as, as the author 1104 01:04:03,381 --> 01:04:05,341 You can't list every detail. 1105 01:04:05,341 --> 01:04:08,595 You have to choose only a few details 1106 01:04:08,595 --> 01:04:14,142 which lets readers see and then they will build 1107 01:04:14,142 --> 01:04:16,394 that person in their imagination 1108 01:04:16,394 --> 01:04:18,897 So, like this person, You know, he's round 1109 01:04:18,897 --> 01:04:20,690 and he squats and he is froggy 1110 01:04:20,690 --> 01:04:23,193 and, you know, like there is no person in the world with nose that's great 1111 01:04:23,193 --> 01:04:25,195 [instrumental music] 1112 01:04:25,195 --> 01:04:27,739 - In just a few months, La Tia has established itself 1113 01:04:38,792 --> 01:04:42,879 as one of the most serious Mexican restaurants 1114 01:04:42,879 --> 01:04:45,131 in Los Angeles in complex and deft. 1115 01:04:45,131 --> 01:04:49,219 I always end up with quails on traditional black moles 1116 01:04:49,219 --> 01:04:53,223 1117 01:04:53,223 --> 01:04:56,184 It's so dark it feels to suck the light out 1118 01:04:56,184 --> 01:04:58,311 from the surrounding airspace. 1119 01:04:58,311 --> 01:05:02,524 Spicy as novella and bitter like tears. 1120 01:05:02,524 --> 01:05:06,986 Moles that are aftertaste can continue for hours 1121 01:05:06,986 --> 01:05:09,989 La Tia Negro mole looks so glossy and rich 1122 01:05:09,989 --> 01:05:12,951 that I am always tempted to test its consistency 1123 01:05:12,951 --> 01:05:17,080 by piercing the index finger into it and the stains produced 1124 01:05:17,080 --> 01:05:19,958 keep long as a decorated digit 1125 01:05:19,958 --> 01:05:23,253 Iraqi patriotic voters. 1126 01:05:23,253 --> 01:05:26,297 Last time I was inspired with glossy black 1127 01:05:26,297 --> 01:05:30,760 That is part of Charles Ray's work The famous sculpture ink box 1128 01:05:30,760 --> 01:05:33,721 and it's immortalized in the main art museum. 1129 01:05:41,271 --> 01:05:42,981 [radio buzzing] 1130 01:05:42,981 --> 01:05:44,983 [chat is not clear on the radio] 1131 01:05:46,359 --> 01:05:47,944 [radio buzzing] 1132 01:05:47,944 --> 01:05:49,863 [chat is not clear on the radio] 1133 01:05:51,364 --> 01:05:53,324 [radio buzzing] 1134 01:05:53,324 --> 01:05:56,286 [chat is not clear on the radio] 1135 01:05:57,370 --> 01:05:59,414 [radio buzzing] 1136 01:05:59,414 --> 01:06:02,959 - Hey, this is Garth Trinidad from KCRW and I'm here 1137 01:06:02,959 --> 01:06:07,130 with Jonathan Gold, food critic and author 1138 01:06:07,130 --> 01:06:10,550 who actually started his business wrote about music 1139 01:06:10,550 --> 01:06:13,553 - Yes, I'm the classic music critic at "LA Weekly" before I do anything else 1140 01:06:13,553 --> 01:06:15,763 and then have to write about Los Angeles hip hop. 1141 01:06:15,763 --> 01:06:20,268 1142 01:06:20,268 --> 01:06:22,437 - So we will talk about some of his favorite songs 1143 01:06:22,437 --> 01:06:25,315 as part of KCRW Guest projects DJ 1144 01:06:25,315 --> 01:06:29,027 ♪ Navigate my tears ♪ 1145 01:06:29,027 --> 01:06:30,653 Can we talk about the song? which you choose 1146 01:06:30,653 --> 01:06:32,238 "Flow My Tears" is very fast. 1147 01:06:32,238 --> 01:06:34,824 - Of course, uh, I'm a classic geek music grows up 1148 01:06:34,824 --> 01:06:38,369 I am locked in, uh, the rest room with my cello 1149 01:06:38,369 --> 01:06:39,746 for most of my teenagers. 1150 01:06:39,746 --> 01:06:42,624 Uh, I play, you know viola da gamba 1151 01:06:42,624 --> 01:06:44,417 That's how to get the chicks I told you 1152 01:06:44,417 --> 01:06:46,586 John Dowland might be a composer hit 1153 01:06:46,586 --> 01:06:49,214 from the Elizabeth era, a little afterwards. 1154 01:06:49,214 --> 01:06:51,341 "My Flow Tears" approximately 1155 01:06:51,341 --> 01:06:54,010 "Stairs to Heaven" like 1620 1156 01:06:54,010 --> 01:06:57,388 ♪ Where is the night of the black bird ♪ 1157 01:06:57,388 --> 01:07:01,267 ♪ Her regrets are sad ♪♪ 1158 01:07:01,267 --> 01:07:05,146 - My father wants a trio string with three brothers 1159 01:07:05,146 --> 01:07:08,107 and I'm the worst violinist who ever existed 1160 01:07:08,107 --> 01:07:10,068 Josh might be the worst viola player ever and Jonathan that person who has some talent 1161 01:07:10,068 --> 01:07:12,153 and really stuck with it. 1162 01:07:12,153 --> 01:07:13,821 He knows every opera and every piece of classical music. 1163 01:07:13,821 --> 01:07:16,699 They used to hold contests on radio 1164 01:07:16,699 --> 01:07:19,369 that he will achieve and dominate. 1165 01:07:22,121 --> 01:07:24,540 1166 01:07:24,540 --> 01:07:26,417 - He doesn't grow up with rock and roll 1167 01:07:26,417 --> 01:07:29,254 like most of us do just because of his parents 1168 01:07:29,254 --> 01:07:31,547 mostly listening to for classical music 1169 01:07:31,547 --> 01:07:34,509 and because he is so obsessed with with cello, that... 1170 01:07:34,509 --> 01:07:37,095 Cello is a kind of whole life. 1171 01:07:37,095 --> 01:07:41,933 So he experiences like there is a sort of radical shift 1172 01:07:41,933 --> 01:07:47,146 when he hears, you know, punk rock for the first time 1173 01:07:47,146 --> 01:07:50,149 - You carry, okay, tracks from Germs, "Formation?" 1174 01:07:50,149 --> 01:07:52,235 - "Formation" is the first LA punk single 1175 01:07:52,235 --> 01:07:54,237 ever recorded in Los Angeles. 1176 01:07:54,237 --> 01:07:56,155 ♪ Knocking them down hold it ♪ 1177 01:07:56,155 --> 01:07:58,074 ♪ Tell them that I am your gun ♪ 1178 01:07:58,074 --> 01:08:02,370 ♪ Drag my trigger I'm bigger than... ♪♪ 1179 01:08:02,370 --> 01:08:05,581 Punk rock is what kind of thing pulls me out of my shell 1180 01:08:05,581 --> 01:08:08,334 and someone dragged me to whiskey 1181 01:08:08,334 --> 01:08:11,587 to see the show, you know, X and The Screamers. 1182 01:08:11,587 --> 01:08:12,755 I'm just... 1183 01:08:12,755 --> 01:08:14,590 "Can you do this?" 1184 01:08:14,590 --> 01:08:16,426 "Maybe to do this?" 1185 01:08:16,426 --> 01:08:20,388 And it's the same as changing as anything I've ever done 1186 01:08:20,388 --> 01:08:23,641 [blurred] 1187 01:08:23,641 --> 01:08:25,601 ♪ Realize all your lies ♪ 1188 01:08:25,601 --> 01:08:27,061 ♪ Hide in the back your suit and base ♪ 1189 01:08:27,061 --> 01:08:28,980 ♪ The life you live your mouth to feed ♪ 1190 01:08:28,980 --> 01:08:30,565 ♪ Is that really based on this? ♪ 1191 01:08:30,565 --> 01:08:32,233 ♪ What you do will take you through ♪ 1192 01:08:34,569 --> 01:08:37,864 - I think punk rock is one thing 1193 01:08:37,864 --> 01:08:40,283 it's very helpful form his world view 1194 01:08:40,283 --> 01:08:43,786 and his ideas as a critic. 1195 01:08:43,786 --> 01:08:48,958 The idea of experiencing and interference, and pushing boundaries. 1196 01:08:48,958 --> 01:08:52,253 When Jonathan entered and first was a critic 1197 01:08:52,253 --> 01:08:55,465 the fact that "LA Times" is reviewing, you know 1198 01:08:55,465 --> 01:08:59,344 Place burrito, disturbed. 1199 01:08:59,344 --> 01:09:01,429 [instrumental music] 1200 01:09:09,562 --> 01:09:12,231 [run away] 1201 01:09:19,989 --> 01:09:22,325 - That's delicious, I love mezcal 1202 01:09:22,325 --> 01:09:23,826 - Mezcal is empty stomach 1203 01:09:23,826 --> 01:09:25,036 Welcome to LA. 1204 01:09:26,287 --> 01:09:28,414 [speaking in Spanish] 1205 01:09:32,293 --> 01:09:35,129 - My father is the maker of mezcal in Oaxaca 1206 01:09:35,129 --> 01:09:38,591 and things that happened really bad to my father in '93 1207 01:09:38,591 --> 01:09:40,843 and that's when, um, peso devalues 1208 01:09:40,843 --> 01:09:43,221 so there is an economical fall in Mexico 1209 01:09:43,221 --> 01:09:45,640 so he decided to move here. 1210 01:09:45,640 --> 01:09:47,558 So he just started rather exploring LA 1211 01:09:47,558 --> 01:09:49,811 and this area where we are now 1212 01:09:49,811 --> 01:09:52,647 Koreatown, there are many Latinos and many people 1213 01:09:52,647 --> 01:09:54,023 from Oaxaca who live in the area. 1214 01:09:54,023 --> 01:09:57,193 So my father opened a little food stood up 1215 01:09:57,193 --> 01:09:59,654 and it became very popular among people from Oaxaca 1216 01:09:59,654 --> 01:10:01,906 because they only know that's where you go 1217 01:10:01,906 --> 01:10:03,366 to get Oaxacan food. 1218 01:10:03,366 --> 01:10:05,535 So he's like, you know, um - 1219 01:10:05,535 --> 01:10:07,912 "Come on open the restaurant." 1220 01:10:07,912 --> 01:10:11,374 That little hole is in the wall, maybe like 6 tables and we open like a small alley 1221 01:10:11,374 --> 01:10:12,750 it's like totally illegal 1222 01:10:12,750 --> 01:10:14,919 So one day my father entered and like 1223 01:09:14,919 --> 01:10:19,340 "Where's all this? White people come from?" 1224 01:10:19,340 --> 01:10:20,717 Because there are indeed these white people 1225 01:10:20,717 --> 01:10:23,010 1226 01:10:23,010 --> 01:10:26,848 Someone like, "It's not like know you are at 'LA Times?' " 1227 01:10:26,848 --> 01:10:28,808 Though, Jonathan Gold reviews restaurants 1228 01:10:28,808 --> 01:10:31,644 before Spanish media speak 1229 01:10:31,644 --> 01:10:34,647 And now the restaurant runs by my sister, my brother 1230 01:10:34,647 --> 01:10:37,608 and myself, and we sit 300 people here 1231 01:10:40,736 --> 01:10:42,572 - This is very delicious - grasshopper? 1232 01:10:42,572 --> 01:10:44,574 - They are very tasty 1233 01:10:44,574 --> 01:10:46,200 I think there are 2 things, I mean one, that's an insect 1234 01:10:46,200 --> 01:10:50,163 and two, all animals, are still 1235 01:10:50,163 --> 01:10:53,833 very difficult for Americans I mean, if we want survive as a species 1236 01:10:53,833 --> 01:10:56,919 we will eat insects 1237 01:10:56,919 --> 01:10:59,922 1238 01:10:59,922 --> 01:11:01,632 1239 01:11:01,632 --> 01:11:03,676 - We. - I mean, unless we are idiots. 1240 01:11:06,512 --> 01:11:08,764 - For us, Oaxacan community 1241 01:11:08,764 --> 01:11:11,684 we owe him a lot because in Oaxaca 1242 01:11:11,684 --> 01:11:14,353 right people look down 1243 01:11:14,353 --> 01:11:16,856 because we come from the native background 1244 01:11:16,856 --> 01:11:19,776 and to have someone put it out there and say 1245 01:11:19,776 --> 01:11:22,945 come and feel this Oaxacan food. 1246 01:11:22,945 --> 01:11:25,281 I think that even helped me as a person 1247 01:11:25,281 --> 01:11:28,451 to embrace my culture because people care 1248 01:11:28,451 --> 01:11:31,537 about food and caring people, and people really like 1249 01:11:31,537 --> 01:11:33,748 "Oh, your food is like, your food is cool" 1250 01:11:33,748 --> 01:11:36,125 and I like, "Yeah, my food is cool." 1251 01:11:36,125 --> 01:11:38,961 [instrumental music] 1252 01:12:28,719 --> 01:12:30,304 - Hello 1253 01:12:30,304 --> 01:12:32,306 - He's a funny person 1254 01:12:34,684 --> 01:12:37,853 Don dog. 1255 01:12:37,853 --> 01:12:40,481 - How are you doing, Duane? - what's up, big man 1256 01:12:40,481 --> 01:12:41,607 - old with you 1257 01:12:41,607 --> 01:12:44,026 - Hot dogs. 1258 01:12:44,026 --> 01:12:46,362 - So, you've returned to the cart. 1259 01:12:46,362 --> 01:12:49,031 - I returned to the cart, we did it again. 1260 01:12:49,031 --> 01:12:51,033 We do this fairly to tell people 1261 01:12:51,033 --> 01:12:53,411 hey, what happened, we will be open again 1262 01:12:53,411 --> 01:12:56,038 It's cool because I got lots of my old customers 1263 01:12:56,038 --> 01:12:58,207 who is a hot dog cart customer, withdraw to say 1264 01:12:58,207 --> 01:13:00,376 "I can just swear, I see your little bean head 1265 01:13:00,376 --> 01:13:01,878 " standing there, so I have to go back 1266 01:13:01,878 --> 01:13:04,880 here and see What is your hot dog like? " 1267 01:13:04,880 --> 01:13:07,508 - Earler's Wieners is opening up! 1268 01:13:12,555 --> 01:13:14,724 - 28 years, since what '86? 1269 01:13:14,724 --> 01:13:18,019 - '86. - '86 1270 01:13:18,019 --> 01:13:20,271 - Crenshaw is friendly, dear - Lotta dog 1271 01:13:29,238 --> 01:13:31,198 = = - There is no neat way to eat one of them 1272 01:13:34,994 --> 01:13:37,914 I always feel a little uncomfortable about claiming hoods. 1273 01:13:39,165 --> 01:13:42,376 I grew up in South LA, but I'm clear 1274 01:13:42,376 --> 01:13:44,920 My family moved before... 1275 01:13:47,048 --> 01:13:49,175 = =... when I was very young 1276 01:13:52,803 --> 01:13:55,765 We have moved there, or my parents moved there 1277 01:13:55,765 --> 01:13:59,602 in the late 50's when my father was a teacher 1278 01:13:59,602 --> 01:14:02,229 at Audubon Middle School 1279 01:14:02,229 --> 01:14:07,318 like this beautiful school. 1280 01:14:07,318 --> 01:14:08,736 There, you know... 1281 01:14:08,736 --> 01:14:13,574 There are many black children and many white children 1282 01:14:13,574 --> 01:14:17,495 and many Japanese children, and it looks like 1283 01:14:19,622 --> 01:14:23,793 and he wants to be a part of that, so he moves to the community. 1284 01:14:25,378 --> 01:14:32,176 Some of my earliest memories Riots in 1965. 1285 01:14:32,176 --> 01:14:34,553 You know, sitting on the top of our hill 1286 01:14:34,553 --> 01:14:38,307 and, and see fire burn under 1287 01:14:38,307 --> 01:14:42,812 see tanks go with Crenshaw Boulevard 1288 01:14:42,812 --> 01:14:47,566 and after that environment changes. 1289 01:14:52,655 --> 01:14:55,533 [instrumental music] 1290 01:15:01,381 --> 01:15:14,844 So you bring Funkadelic with "Classic Maggot Brain". 1291 01:15:20,683 --> 01:15:23,352 I am 13 or 14 years old when I try to buy 1292 01:15:23,352 --> 01:15:26,689 uh, you know, beer with fake ID 1293 01:15:28,941 --> 01:15:32,278 Go home and put it on and guitar solo 1294 01:15:32,278 --> 01:15:33,696 Eddie Hazel, it's just amazing 1295 01:15:33,696 --> 01:15:35,197 It continues to flow. 1296 01:15:35,197 --> 01:15:37,533 It has some sort of, uh, grandeur 1297 01:15:37,533 --> 01:15:40,494 you expect from someone Like, you know, Wagner 1298 01:15:41,912 --> 01:15:43,789 which continues forever. 1299 01:15:43,789 --> 01:15:46,333 Almost all blues guitarists 1300 01:15:48,711 --> 01:15:51,839 So they do wa wa wa, But Eddie Hazel doesn't. 1301 01:15:51,839 --> 01:15:54,884 He always has something new to say, and song 1302 01:16:00,931 --> 01:16:03,851 [instrumental music] 1303 01:16:50,940 --> 01:16:54,360 - Please join me in welcoming Jonathan Gold. 1304 01:16:58,364 --> 01:17:00,032 - Thank you. 1305 01:17:04,286 --> 01:17:06,121 Hi. 1306 01:17:06,121 --> 01:17:11,794 I, in some ways I think Come to you as a messenger 1307 01:17:11,794 --> 01:17:15,130 from the world of failure 1308 01:17:15,130 --> 01:17:16,966 a rare citizen from a vast country 1309 01:17:16,966 --> 01:17:21,428 where things don't change exactly as you planned 1310 01:17:22,805 --> 01:17:25,307 I'm here to say it it's okay 1311 01:17:25,307 --> 01:17:26,976 Still, when I wake up in the morning 1312 01:17:26,976 --> 01:17:29,562 I don't feel like a semi-successful writer 1313 01:17:29,562 --> 01:17:31,021 Los Angeles history writer 1314 01:17:31,021 --> 01:17:33,983 I feel like a cellist who failed 1315 01:17:33,983 --> 01:17:36,318 more or less my UCLA experience 1316 01:17:38,153 --> 01:17:40,823 But we are all, especially from us in art 1317 01:17:40,823 --> 01:17:43,826 experience a failure, and this is the experience 1318 01:17:43,826 --> 01:17:45,828 from failure which makes us strong 1319 01:17:45,828 --> 01:17:49,164 it helps make us who we are 1320 01:17:49,164 --> 01:17:51,834 What is my UCLA? Knowledge gained helps me 1321 01:17:51,834 --> 01:17:54,044 when I wrote about hip hop in the 1980s? 1322 01:17:54,044 --> 01:17:57,047 Not directly, but indeed the way is listening to it gives me a way 1323 01:17:57,047 --> 01:18:00,509 to understand music in important ways 1324 01:18:00,509 --> 01:18:02,678 What is my experience in writing about opera and new music 1325 01:18:52,678 --> 01:18:05,431 has something to do by writing food? 1326 01:18:05,431 --> 01:18:09,018 Yes, apparently, at a very basic level 1327 01:18:09,018 --> 01:18:11,896 criticism is criticism. 1328 01:18:11,896 --> 01:18:14,481 An aria is in several ways 1329 01:18:14,481 --> 01:18:17,610 equivalent to well-cooked potatoes 1330 01:18:17,610 --> 01:18:21,363 and second understanding form and ability 1331 01:18:21,363 --> 01:18:24,158 to describe abstract sensations 1332 01:18:24,158 --> 01:18:26,869 which I learned to do as a graduate 1333 01:18:26,869 --> 01:18:32,041 in music and art courses here, turns out to be exactly 1334 01:18:32,041 --> 01:18:34,335 What do I need to know? [hip hop music] 1335 01:18:34,335 --> 01:18:37,046 - I think humans are great pain 1336 01:18:39,131 --> 01:18:41,175 is, uh, a previous insult for investigation 1337 01:18:41,175 --> 01:18:44,303 Jonathan took the idea... 1338 01:18:44,303 --> 01:18:46,597 1339 01:18:46,597 --> 01:18:49,099 This is a very comfortable idea for many Americans and he only, he just blows it fuck up 1340 01:18:49,099 --> 01:18:52,061 [music continues] 1341 01:18:52,061 --> 01:18:54,104 - Jonathan Gold is my guest DJ 1342 01:18:55,314 --> 01:18:57,691 Alright, man, so you bring some LA gangsta rap. 1343 01:18:57,691 --> 01:19:01,403 Some gangsta rap Los Angeles 1344 01:19:01,403 --> 01:19:03,364 and you bring "G Thang" From, uh, Dr. Dre, Snoop Dogg. 1345 01:19:03,364 --> 01:19:06,492 Now, listen, rumors You are in the studio 1346 01:19:06,492 --> 01:19:10,037 a lot of time with them when they are actually 1347 01:19:10,037 --> 01:19:11,747 record "Doggystyle" and things like that. 1348 01:19:11,747 --> 01:19:13,082 - Yeah, yes, that's how it is. 1349 01:19:41,082 --> 01:19:14,541 - This is when you really write 1350 01:19:14,541 --> 01:19:15,584 1351 01:19:16,669 --> 01:19:18,337 during that time 1352 01:19:18,337 --> 01:19:21,882 - Right, LA hip hop is great, but no one has ever heard of it. 1353 01:19:21,882 --> 01:19:24,385 Everyone just heard it New York goods 1354 01:19:24,385 --> 01:19:26,929 and Dre is the person who knows 1355 01:19:26,929 --> 01:19:29,223 how to slow it down, make it gangsta. 1356 01:19:29,223 --> 01:19:31,809 Chronic, in my opinion is a total breakthrough album 1357 01:19:31,809 --> 01:19:34,436 It crosses to a bouncing car to hang out 1358 01:19:34,436 --> 01:19:35,938 and baking in the garden. 1359 01:19:35,938 --> 01:19:37,439 That is less about the bang and that's more about, this is the environment 1360 01:19:37,439 --> 01:19:39,942 and you are invited to party 1361 01:19:42,194 --> 01:19:44,822 and there is something beautiful about that. 1362 01:19:44,822 --> 01:19:46,991 1363 01:19:46,991 --> 01:19:49,284 ♪ It's like this and like that and like this and uh ♪ 1364 01:19:49,284 --> 01:19:51,537 ♪ Dre creep into the mic like a ghost ♪ 1365 01:19:51,537 --> 01:19:54,123 ♪ All right I peek and I creepin 'and I creep-in' ♪ 1366 01:19:54,123 --> 01:19:56,625 ♪ But I almost got caught Because my pager keeps on beepin '♪ 1367 01:19:56,625 --> 01:19:58,961 ♪ Now it's time for me to make my impression feel ♪ 1368 01:19:58,961 --> 01:20:01,588 ♪ So sit relaxed and strap on the seat belt ♪ 1369 01:20:03,507 --> 01:20:06,135 - You know, after the Los Angeles riots 1370 01:20:06,135 --> 01:20:07,594 there are many hands squeeze 1371 01:20:07,594 --> 01:20:10,556 about what is wrong in this city 1372 01:20:10,556 --> 01:20:14,351 and there is a movement to like to know 1373 01:20:14,351 --> 01:20:16,478 who is your neighbor 1374 01:20:16,478 --> 01:20:19,481 but long before the riots and after Jonathan Gold 1375 01:20:19,481 --> 01:20:24,153 introduce us to people and to the environment. 1376 01:20:28,824 --> 01:20:32,786 - There is a certain level Utopian thinking in his work. 1377 01:20:32,786 --> 01:20:34,747 There is a certain level dedication 1378 01:20:34,747 --> 01:20:37,666 to ask questions how we live 1379 01:20:37,666 --> 01:20:39,918 He talks about miscegenation 1380 01:20:39,918 --> 01:20:44,006 between races basically appears on the table 1381 01:20:47,718 --> 01:20:50,262 From the way he saw Los Angeles 1382 01:20:50,262 --> 01:20:52,806 on one side Los Angeles comes together. 1383 01:20:52,806 --> 01:20:55,267 ♪ It's like this and like that and like this and uh ♪ 1384 01:20:55,267 --> 01:20:57,686 ♪ It's like that and like this and like that and uh ♪ 1385 01:20:57,686 --> 01:21:00,272 ♪ It's like this and we don't don't love you ♪ 1386 01:21:00,272 --> 01:21:03,650 ♪ Just be cold until the next episode ♪♪ 1387 01:21:08,405 --> 01:21:10,783 [instrumental music] 1388 01:21:31,053 --> 01:21:33,055 - There are many different things how to tell stories 1389 01:21:33,055 --> 01:21:37,059 about Los Angeles, and of course, uh, telling stories 1390 01:21:37,059 --> 01:21:40,687 through food is one way Jonathan Gold does that. 1391 01:21:40,687 --> 01:21:43,899 Um, and the part he will read 1392 01:21:43,899 --> 01:21:46,610 represents another way talks about Los Angeles 1393 01:21:46,610 --> 01:21:49,363 at which time, um, city cloth 1394 01:21:49,363 --> 01:21:52,407 like it looks like it won't continue. 1395 01:21:52,407 --> 01:21:54,243 So, Jonathan. 1396 01:22:00,541 --> 01:22:05,295 - This is an older essay written, uh, week 1397 01:22:05,295 --> 01:22:12,094 after, um, Riots in 1992 1398 01:22:12,094 --> 01:22:16,598 and that... 1399 01:22:16,598 --> 01:22:20,352 Well, I will, I will, I will read and you can, you can hear it. 1400 01:22:20,352 --> 01:22:27,151 Um, I can't tell you how much I love Los Angeles. 1401 01:22:27,151 --> 01:22:31,780 "It's 8 o'clock and the light is starting to fade 1402 01:22:31,780 --> 01:22:34,283 " As I sit on the floor of my apartment 1403 01:22:34,283 --> 01:22:38,203 "staring at the place where Rain doesn't drip so much 1404 01:22:38,203 --> 01:22:40,289 " like coming out of the jam door. 1405 01:22:42,082 --> 01:22:43,458 "Over the past ten years 1406 01:22:43,458 --> 01:22:45,460 " I have stayed in a creaking apartment 1407 01:22:45,460 --> 01:22:46,920 "Maybe sweet in his time 1408 01:22:46,920 --> 01:22:49,256 "who has home for dog trainers 1409 01:22:49,256 --> 01:22:51,758 " violinist and a series of authors 1410 01:22:51,758 --> 01:22:54,720 "in a smart column building in an aging environment 1411 01:22:54,720 --> 01:22:58,807 " no one hasn't bothered his name. 1412 01:22:58,807 --> 01:23:02,895 "Under the baby crying in Spanish 1413 01:23:02,895 --> 01:23:04,438 " in the distance ghetto boys 1414 01:23:04,438 --> 01:23:06,148 "Get up from the truck that passes. 1415 01:23:07,733 --> 01:23:09,985 " For the fifth time, about one hour 1416 01:23:09,985 --> 01:23:12,196 "I think about other parts of the city 1417 01:23:12,196 --> 01:23:15,199 " Which with a croissant shop in the corner of the street 1418 01:23:15,199 --> 01:23:17,367 "and AC shopping centers 1419 01:23:17,367 --> 01:23:19,578 " and neighbors who look like me. 1420 01:23:21,663 --> 01:23:24,833 "Before the April fire, There were 14 different types 1421 01:23:24,833 --> 01:23:27,836 "from ethnic restaurants within 5 minutes walk. 1422 01:23:27,836 --> 01:23:30,505 " Now, there are only 10. 1423 01:23:32,174 --> 01:23:35,510 "For a while, everything is in the environment 1424 01:23:35,510 --> 01:23:38,180 " It seems like only a few more are badly addressed. 1425 01:23:38,180 --> 01:23:41,099 "Saturday night weapons a little harder 1426 01:23:41,099 --> 01:23:44,186 " Sirens everywhere and helicopters 1427 01:23:44,186 --> 01:23:46,104 "a little closer to home. 1428 01:23:49,358 --> 01:23:51,276 " If you spend time in my neighborhood 1429 01:23:51,276 --> 01:23:52,694 "You will learn rhythm that place 1430 01:23:52,694 --> 01:23:54,529 " Morning time Mexican food truck 1431 01:23:54,529 --> 01:23:55,656 "appears around the corner. 1432 01:23:55,656 --> 01:23:57,532 " It's time for Filipinos teenagers 1433 01:23:57,532 --> 01:24:01,870 "snack of heart bread and Coca-Cola in the pancit shop. 1434 01:24:01,870 --> 01:24:04,539 " Peace time in the afternoon 1435 01:24:04,539 --> 01:24:07,459 "when on the road flows gracefully. " Guatemalan women walk home from Ralph's 1436 01:24:08,877 --> 01:24:11,213 "with a shopping bag 1437 01:24:11,213 --> 01:24:12,673 " balanced with experts on their heads 1438 01:24:12,673 --> 01:24:15,342 "Construction of Salvador crowd of workers 1439 01:24:15,342 --> 01:24:17,219 " to local Korea noodle shop 1440 01:24:17,219 --> 01:24:19,054 "for steamed cakes 1441 01:24:19,054 --> 01:24:22,057 " In this environment, most of us just passed. 1442 01:24:22,057 --> 01:24:26,395 "Transients on our way to more permanent homes 1443 01:24:26,395 --> 01:24:28,689 " in Long Beach or Huntington Park. 1444 01:24:28,689 --> 01:24:30,983 "We are all citizens in the world. 1445 01:24:30,983 --> 01:24:33,485 " We are all foreigners together 1446 01:24:33,485 --> 01:24:36,029 "But for my Korean landlord, this environment is home 1447 01:24:37,614 --> 01:24:41,994 1448 01:24:41,994 --> 01:24:43,578 "I have awakened before dawn 1449 01:24:43,578 --> 01:24:45,747 " by the rhythmic thump of from their pounding garlic 1450 01:24:45,747 --> 01:24:48,834 "to pasta on the back porch. 1451 01:24:48,834 --> 01:24:51,712 " I have come out the door with a handful of wet laundry 1452 01:24:51,712 --> 01:24:53,588 "just to find all clothes 1453 01:24:53,588 --> 01:24:56,216 " is taken by drying the fish. 1454 01:24:56,216 --> 01:24:59,177 "I also go home from work to rediscover the stretched stairs 1455 01:24:59,177 --> 01:25:02,597 " with cabbage leaves, heal under the hot sun 1456 01:25:06,310 --> 01:25:10,314 "Even when their child gets shot 1457 01:25:10,314 --> 01:25:12,441 " half a mile south of here 1458 01:25:12,441 --> 01:25:16,653 "Someone was asked from their place of taste 1459 01:25:16,653 --> 01:25:21,325 "Landlords remain for themselves and so do I 1460 01:25:23,118 --> 01:25:27,289 I often hope they do it invite me to dinner 1461 01:25:27,289 --> 01:25:28,498 Thank you. 1462 01:25:28,498 --> 01:25:30,459 [clap] 1463 01:25:32,085 --> 01:25:34,087 [instrumental music] 1464 01:26:00,447 --> 01:26:02,574 [music continues] 1465 01:26:13,835 --> 01:26:16,671 [jazz music] 1466 01:26:24,846 --> 01:26:26,556 - OK, man, you take some Louis Armstrong. 1467 01:26:26,556 --> 01:26:28,058 We have to talk about Louis. 1468 01:26:28,058 --> 01:26:29,518 Uh, "Tight Like This," why? You choose this song? 1469 01:26:29,518 --> 01:26:31,436 - I think it's the best Driving music is there. 1470 01:26:31,436 --> 01:26:33,271 ♪ Oh it's tight like this ♪ 1471 01:26:33,271 --> 01:26:35,232 ♪ No, it's not tight like that good ♪ 1472 01:26:35,232 --> 01:26:37,192 ♪ I say it's tight like this ♪ 1473 01:26:37,192 --> 01:26:39,694 ♪ Let it be tight like that ♪ 1474 01:28:21,588 --> 01:28:23,298 ♪ Oh, this is very strict like that Louis ♪ 1475 01:28:56,498 --> 01:28:58,833 ♪ Oh it's tight like this ♪ 1476 01:29:34,744 --> 01:29:36,705 ♪ Now close like that ♪♪ Entered by: www.subtitlecinema.com