1 00:00:05,000 --> 00:00:15,000 Visit www.Nexiabet.cc Trusted Secure Online Gambling Agent 2 00:00:05,000 --> 00:00:15,000 New Member Bonus 500 Thousand 10 Million Cashback Parlay 3 00:00:05,739 --> 00:00:10,509 [playing instrumental music] 4 00:01:32,292 --> 00:01:34,259 [speaking in Basque] 5 00:01:39,199 --> 00:01:42,501 [playing instrumental music] 6 00:01:44,237 --> 00:01:46,138 [man speaks in Basque] 7 00:02:09,763 --> 00:02:11,296 [Men speak unclear] 8 00:02:19,139 --> 00:02:21,206 [music continues] 9 00:02:35,689 --> 00:02:39,824 Pasaia, this port is one of them the main gate to the new world 10 00:02:39,859 --> 00:02:41,592 in the 16th century. 11 00:02:41,628 --> 00:02:44,629 From this place, most whaling expeditions go to a new world. 12 00:02:44,664 --> 00:02:47,232 Basque whaling in Canada is considered 13 00:02:47,267 --> 00:02:49,868 oldest industrial activity in North America. 14 00:02:49,903 --> 00:02:53,338 But you see, it's not part of the official maritime history 15 00:02:53,373 --> 00:02:56,341 because of that maritime history about fishermen. 16 00:02:56,376 --> 00:02:58,209 So they usually keep it secretly. 17 00:02:58,245 --> 00:03:02,013 So Basque is the only that hunts whales for centuries. 18 00:03:02,048 --> 00:03:04,749 Until the beginning of in the 17th century, 19 00:03:04,784 --> 00:03:08,520 many other countries start hunting whales too. 20 00:03:08,555 --> 00:03:12,190 But always employ Basque harpooneer and sailors. 21 00:03:12,225 --> 00:03:15,327 This is one of the most important activities 22 00:03:15,362 --> 00:03:18,430 that Basque fishermen for centuries. 23 00:03:18,465 --> 00:03:22,300 When I am much younger, I want to be a shipbuilder. 24 00:03:22,335 --> 00:03:24,069 I want to build a wooden boat. 25 00:03:24,104 --> 00:03:26,304 I'm thinking about going to the United States, 26 00:03:26,339 --> 00:03:28,573 to Maine, to Maine Maritime Museum, 27 00:03:28,608 --> 00:03:30,976 to the apprentice store, to build a boat. 28 00:03:31,011 --> 00:03:33,111 But, I'm not sure enough. 29 00:03:33,146 --> 00:03:36,448 But then I surf in Australia, at Manly, 30 00:03:36,483 --> 00:03:38,283 and someone I met 31 00:03:38,318 --> 00:03:40,085 knowing that I'm Basque, 32 00:03:40,120 --> 00:03:42,320 come to me with this National Geographic Problems 33 00:03:42,355 --> 00:03:45,724 around the 16th century Basque whaling in America. 34 00:03:45,759 --> 00:03:49,527 And this is a problem the ship of the world of San Juan. 35 00:03:49,562 --> 00:03:52,397 So, this is the first time I heard about San Juan, 36 00:03:52,432 --> 00:03:55,100 when I was surfing in Australia. 37 00:03:55,135 --> 00:03:58,803 I decided to focus on learning how to build a wooden boat, 38 00:03:58,838 --> 00:04:02,474 and, well, I decided to build San Juan one day. 39 00:04:02,509 --> 00:04:05,010 And for years after that, here we are. 40 00:04:05,045 --> 00:04:07,045 I am building not alone but with 41 00:04:07,080 --> 00:04:08,347 group of people. 42 00:04:08,848 --> 00:04:10,048 One... 43 00:04:10,083 --> 00:04:12,183 Basque success & apos; s shipbuilding, 44 00:04:12,218 --> 00:04:15,287 is the main fact material for building ships, 45 00:04:15,322 --> 00:04:17,522 iron mine, also forest, 46 00:04:17,557 --> 00:04:20,325 to be very close to the shipyard. 47 00:04:20,360 --> 00:04:23,528 So it makes transportation very affordable. 48 00:04:25,965 --> 00:04:28,300 They use it to manage forests 49 00:04:28,335 --> 00:04:30,535 to provide the rights the form they need, 50 00:04:30,570 --> 00:04:33,205 like, you know, they use it to guide branches. 51 00:04:33,973 --> 00:04:35,540 [drilling] 52 00:04:36,076 --> 00:04:37,609 [hammer sound] 53 00:04:38,244 --> 00:04:39,578 [drilling continues] 54 00:04:40,847 --> 00:04:41,746 Let me show you. 55 00:04:41,781 --> 00:04:43,848 This is Oliden making a paddle. 56 00:04:43,883 --> 00:04:47,819 They are the last wooden paddles makers in the Basque country. 57 00:04:47,854 --> 00:04:49,120 They don't make it again. 58 00:04:49,155 --> 00:04:52,224 But, we still use it, and they are very, very, good. 59 00:04:56,096 --> 00:04:58,530 [playing guitar music] 60 00:05:16,750 --> 00:05:19,685 [music continues] 61 00:05:20,987 --> 00:05:24,389 [foreign songs played] 62 00:05:43,510 --> 00:05:46,611 [song continues] 63 00:06:16,709 --> 00:06:18,810 [song continues] 64 00:06:27,187 --> 00:06:28,587 [both speak in Basque] 65 00:06:31,558 --> 00:06:34,092 [chat] 66 00:06:36,796 --> 00:06:38,597 [playing keyboard music] 67 00:06:41,201 --> 00:06:43,101 [speaking in Basque] 68 00:07:33,820 --> 00:07:35,454 [speaking in Basque] 69 00:08:01,114 --> 00:08:02,447 [Basque language speaks] 70 00:08:31,177 --> 00:08:32,577 [Mikel speaks in Basque] 71 00:08:55,234 --> 00:08:56,635 [Talk Patxi] 72 00:09:27,600 --> 00:09:28,567 [Talk Patxi] 73 00:09:39,145 --> 00:09:40,211 [woman talking] 74 00:09:41,047 --> 00:09:42,113 [Mikel speaks] 75 00:09:45,652 --> 00:09:46,585 [Talk Patxi] 76 00:09:55,728 --> 00:09:56,828 [Patxi laughs] 77 00:10:27,493 --> 00:10:28,360 [Talk Patxi] 78 00:10:58,958 --> 00:11:00,859 [playing instrumental music] 79 00:11:26,586 --> 00:11:28,286 [music continues] 80 00:11:44,170 --> 00:11:45,770 [music continues] 81 00:12:03,389 --> 00:12:05,923 [Head] Well, this is the place it all starts. 82 00:12:05,958 --> 00:12:10,328 They build this skatepark here in the city and that is full of skating people and... 83 00:12:10,363 --> 00:12:12,964 I am seven years old and we found... 84 00:12:12,999 --> 00:12:14,098 surf first. 85 00:12:14,133 --> 00:12:16,100 Some men lend us surf boards and 86 00:12:16,135 --> 00:12:17,935 my brothers and I, we started surfing. 87 00:12:17,970 --> 00:12:22,607 I remember we can slide here and have read these lines as surfers. 88 00:12:22,642 --> 00:12:24,109 Come from here, and... 89 00:12:26,045 --> 00:12:27,645 I can still jump. 90 00:12:30,349 --> 00:12:32,150 Oh! 91 00:12:33,352 --> 00:12:34,486 Phew! 92 00:12:36,556 --> 00:12:37,689 Then... 93 00:12:38,524 --> 00:12:40,258 good barrel. 94 00:12:40,293 --> 00:12:42,894 And there is a friend here doing like this. 95 00:12:42,929 --> 00:12:45,463 And it's amazing how their skater style is here, 96 00:12:45,498 --> 00:12:47,265 it's a little like surfing, you know. 97 00:12:47,300 --> 00:12:49,667 Because of the lines and the influence of the sea too. 98 00:12:49,702 --> 00:12:51,936 So everyone in the village comes here, 99 00:12:51,971 --> 00:12:53,104 and everyone skates. 100 00:12:53,139 --> 00:12:54,539 There are very, very few boards. 101 00:12:54,574 --> 00:12:56,808 I remember we found one board in the trash. 102 00:12:56,843 --> 00:12:58,009 It was completely destroyed. 103 00:12:58,044 --> 00:13:00,178 And we fix it with tape, you know. 104 00:13:03,983 --> 00:13:05,750 [Kepa] The first dive suit we bought, 105 00:13:05,785 --> 00:13:07,151 we go to Biarritz 106 00:13:07,186 --> 00:13:08,486 there are surfing cultures there. 107 00:13:08,521 --> 00:13:10,154 There are no wetsuits here, so... 108 00:13:10,190 --> 00:13:14,225 My mom and dad get some money and we encourage all the road to Haritz. 109 00:13:14,260 --> 00:13:17,094 When it was an adventure to go to Haritz. 110 00:13:17,129 --> 00:13:18,863 And then we buy this the first wetsuits, 111 00:13:18,898 --> 00:13:20,932 and when they are damaged, we have to fix it, 112 00:13:20,967 --> 00:13:22,667 and there is no material here. 113 00:13:25,438 --> 00:13:28,139 The main industry in Bilbao is building a ship. 114 00:13:28,174 --> 00:13:30,875 And there is iron in the mountains. 115 00:13:30,910 --> 00:13:33,277 So they take the iron from straight mountains, 116 00:13:33,312 --> 00:13:35,613 And build ships for Europe. 117 00:13:35,648 --> 00:13:37,715 Worldwide. 118 00:13:37,750 --> 00:13:39,550 And iron for-- 119 00:13:39,585 --> 00:13:42,253 I think like 100 years there there are many people coming from everywhere. 120 00:13:42,288 --> 00:13:44,989 There are many hopes here, but then the iron is complete. 121 00:13:45,024 --> 00:13:47,158 So that is a local crisis. 122 00:13:47,193 --> 00:13:49,760 It's like a big movement. 123 00:13:49,795 --> 00:13:51,462 Like, a big revolution. 124 00:13:51,497 --> 00:13:55,266 It's difficult times, but there is also a time for a lot of music. 125 00:13:55,301 --> 00:13:57,768 But, not as a government, 126 00:13:57,803 --> 00:14:00,772 but more as street activists, you know. 127 00:14:01,340 --> 00:14:03,408 [singing in Basque] 128 00:14:26,399 --> 00:14:27,865 [Head] Yes, this, phew... 129 00:14:27,900 --> 00:14:29,133 this is a big change so... 130 00:14:29,168 --> 00:14:31,869 If you see footage from Bilbao from the early eighties, 131 00:14:31,904 --> 00:14:35,940 You will see that black hole with pollution 132 00:14:35,975 --> 00:14:38,743 and that is a workplace, a difficult workplace. 133 00:14:38,778 --> 00:14:40,544 There are so many industries, and... 134 00:14:40,579 --> 00:14:44,715 Now, you know, Bilbao like... Looks like New York. [laughs] 135 00:14:44,750 --> 00:14:48,319 Yes, they made projects to change... 136 00:14:48,354 --> 00:14:50,855 Bilbao from industry 137 00:14:50,890 --> 00:14:52,023 for tourists now. 138 00:14:52,058 --> 00:14:53,724 And that's one thing cool from it. 139 00:14:53,759 --> 00:14:56,727 It comes as a symbol from the new Bilbao. 140 00:14:56,762 --> 00:15:00,565 This is a beautiful work of art, You know, as yourself. 141 00:15:01,834 --> 00:15:04,535 Basque people, especially on the coastline, know that it's very difficult to process the land. 142 00:15:04,570 --> 00:15:06,203 So, most focus people work at sea 143 00:15:06,238 --> 00:15:08,739 with fishermen now. 144 00:15:08,774 --> 00:15:10,241 A very strong connection with the ocean, you know. 145 00:15:10,276 --> 00:15:12,843 That's a way of survival, you know. 146 00:15:12,878 --> 00:15:14,712 So, I think that greatly affects in Basque characters. 147 00:15:14,747 --> 00:15:18,683 We always travel all over the world, you know, 148 00:15:18,718 --> 00:15:21,085 Basque people. 149 00:15:21,120 --> 00:15:22,754 [playing guitar music] 150 00:15:23,789 --> 00:15:26,223 [Head] We are more connected to the world by sea, 151 00:15:26,258 --> 00:15:28,592 rather than going to Europe by land, you know. 152 00:15:28,627 --> 00:15:30,761 That's why we believe 153 00:15:30,796 --> 00:15:31,929 this cold field personality, you know. 154 00:15:31,964 --> 00:15:33,564 [music continues] 155 00:15:34,266 --> 00:15:36,567 156 00:15:37,570 --> 00:15:39,637 [Head] I think times change very quickly. 157 00:15:39,672 --> 00:15:42,273 I travel the world and I look for 158 00:15:42,308 --> 00:15:43,941 some places that... 159 00:15:43,976 --> 00:15:46,210 When I'm there, like, 160 00:15:46,245 --> 00:15:48,012 six years ago alone, 161 00:15:48,047 --> 00:15:51,215 there are those people connected to the west culture, you know. 162 00:15:51,250 --> 00:15:53,517 And now sometimes I get through Facebook, 163 00:15:53,552 --> 00:15:55,786 six years after I connected with them, you know. 164 00:15:55,821 --> 00:15:58,022 So, I think the whole world is changing now, 165 00:15:58,057 --> 00:15:59,423 and for good on the one hand, 166 00:15:59,458 --> 00:16:00,858 and for the bad by others, you know. 167 00:16:00,893 --> 00:16:02,994 Because it will never happen to come back, you know. 168 00:16:03,029 --> 00:16:06,397 So, for me, this is traveling world and knowing other culture is 169 00:16:06,432 --> 00:16:09,767 ways to return home and really appreciate what we have 170 00:16:09,802 --> 00:16:12,036 in values from primitive languages, 171 00:16:12,071 --> 00:16:14,038 and the culture we have now. 172 00:16:14,073 --> 00:16:16,841 [playing guitar music] 173 00:16:20,913 --> 00:16:25,383 [Head] I competed so long that I really liked it at that time. 174 00:16:25,418 --> 00:16:26,984 You are very focused on one beach, 175 00:16:27,019 --> 00:16:28,819 and from the beach to the hotel, 176 00:16:28,854 --> 00:16:30,454 and from the hotel to the beach. 177 00:16:30,489 --> 00:16:32,656 And you are very focused at 20 minutes from the heat, you know. 178 00:16:32,691 --> 00:16:35,960 Sometimes I realize that I want to do it other things, you know. 179 00:16:35,995 --> 00:16:40,431 I think the surfing industry also lost a lot of beauty from the past, you know. 180 00:16:40,466 --> 00:16:44,935 So I tried to recover that spirit and just take it surfing bags and surfboards, 181 00:16:44,970 --> 00:16:47,738 and know the world. As simple as that, you know. 182 00:16:47,773 --> 00:16:49,407 So, yes, that's how. 183 00:16:49,442 --> 00:16:53,477 I bought a small camera and I left. 184 00:16:53,512 --> 00:16:56,814 I'm not trying to do something very sophisticated, 185 00:16:56,849 --> 00:17:00,284 or I don't have techniques to do good clips, you know. 186 00:17:00,319 --> 00:17:04,822 How to express yourself just say, hey, I'm here, I'm looking for waves. 187 00:17:04,857 --> 00:17:06,724 It's more about that feeling alone. 188 00:17:06,759 --> 00:17:08,392 Maybe, if you with someone, 189 00:17:08,427 --> 00:17:10,628 then things don't are intense, you know. 190 00:17:10,663 --> 00:17:13,230 But when you are alone, and you are somewhere like that, 191 00:17:13,265 --> 00:17:15,666 everything becomes is very dangerous for you... 192 00:17:15,701 --> 00:17:18,803 You are very focused on what happens in that place. 193 00:17:18,838 --> 00:17:22,540 And every little thing in normal life disappears to focus on... 194 00:17:22,575 --> 00:17:27,678 on very important things that reach waves, and survive, you know. 195 00:17:27,713 --> 00:17:29,580 [laughs] 196 00:17:30,382 --> 00:17:32,717 [playing guitar music] 197 00:17:34,987 --> 00:17:37,455 [Head] You know, Basque people. It's been a lot of traveling, 198 00:17:37,490 --> 00:17:39,056 but also united. 199 00:17:39,091 --> 00:17:41,225 Culture, you know. Traveling to the world has become... 200 00:17:41,260 --> 00:17:44,462 This is an extraordinary experience to know other cultures and other places. 201 00:17:44,497 --> 00:17:46,997 But that's also the way to go back and see 202 00:17:47,032 --> 00:17:48,866 Basque culture and people, 203 00:17:48,901 --> 00:17:52,169 and tradition since an objective position, you know. 204 00:17:52,204 --> 00:17:54,205 So, you realize there are small things 205 00:17:54,240 --> 00:17:55,940 we have here, so, 206 00:17:55,975 --> 00:17:57,675 learn to respect our culture 207 00:17:57,710 --> 00:17:59,577 and be proud what we are, you know. 208 00:17:59,612 --> 00:18:01,512 So it's always good to go back 209 00:18:01,547 --> 00:18:03,647 and with your friends and family, 210 00:18:03,682 --> 00:18:05,616 and here is the place I belong, you know. 211 00:18:05,651 --> 00:18:08,186 [playing guitar music] 212 00:18:10,923 --> 00:18:14,225 I really like surfing here in the city where we grew up. 213 00:18:14,260 --> 00:18:15,593 This is an urban universe, 214 00:18:15,628 --> 00:18:17,695 but a beautiful universe, you know. 215 00:18:17,730 --> 00:18:20,064 [playing guitar music] 216 00:18:20,099 --> 00:18:21,732 And then you have it Mundaka, 217 00:18:21,767 --> 00:18:25,269 and have this wild nature, that nature is protected 218 00:18:25,304 --> 00:18:27,238 everything around Mundaka beautiful, you know. 219 00:18:27,273 --> 00:18:28,606 These are big waves, but, 220 00:18:28,641 --> 00:18:32,009 also when you are there, everything around you is... 221 00:18:32,044 --> 00:18:33,477 This is very unique, you know. 222 00:18:33,512 --> 00:18:35,946 Every time I think about it - I don't trust God, but, 223 00:18:35,981 --> 00:18:39,783 if there is a reason for that believe in God, this is about Mundaka is there, you know. 224 00:18:39,818 --> 00:18:42,686 For me, Mundaka is a motivation stay here, you know, 225 00:18:42,721 --> 00:18:45,556 because anytime you can get it your wave of life there, you know. 226 00:18:45,591 --> 00:18:47,625 And you are with family and friends in the water. 227 00:18:47,660 --> 00:18:49,093 So this is a very special place, you know, 228 00:18:49,128 --> 00:18:50,828 with the village there. 229 00:18:50,863 --> 00:18:53,097 For us it's like a temple, you know. 230 00:18:53,132 --> 00:18:55,333 [playing instrumental music] 231 00:19:11,884 --> 00:19:14,652 [music continues] 232 00:20:00,733 --> 00:20:02,533 [music continues] 233 00:20:24,657 --> 00:20:28,459 [Head] For me Tom Curren is the most influential surfer. 234 00:20:28,494 --> 00:20:31,795 And I think for many people too, you know. 235 00:20:31,830 --> 00:20:35,366 Tom Curren for me is the definition of surfing. 236 00:20:35,401 --> 00:20:36,867 He lives in the Basque country 237 00:20:36,902 --> 00:20:39,203 but I remember seeing it surfing on Mundaka, 238 00:20:39,238 --> 00:20:40,971 and I remember the words, 239 00:20:41,007 --> 00:20:44,208 he says that Mundaka is the best wave in the world, you know. 240 00:20:45,811 --> 00:20:48,712 Many entrepreneurs in Indonesia the Basque country historically, 241 00:20:48,747 --> 00:20:50,547 from Elcano to these times, you know-- 242 00:20:50,582 --> 00:20:52,249 Elcano, made the world around the tour 243 00:20:52,284 --> 00:20:55,219 this time, you know, and I don't think it's a bad luck, you know. 244 00:20:55,254 --> 00:20:56,887 There are many from adventurers, and... 245 00:20:56,922 --> 00:21:00,391 this is also an adventure from Basque people to the world, you know. 246 00:21:00,426 --> 00:21:02,293 [Speak in Basque] 247 00:21:06,665 --> 00:21:10,367 I will talk about, Natxo. A Basque, strong personality, 248 00:21:10,402 --> 00:21:12,369 optimistic dreamers, you know. 249 00:21:12,404 --> 00:21:15,139 This child has something special in him. 250 00:21:15,174 --> 00:21:17,308 A great surfer, and a great person too. 251 00:21:17,343 --> 00:21:19,443 [drum hit] 252 00:21:31,590 --> 00:21:33,791 [drum hit] 253 00:21:51,777 --> 00:21:54,312 [drum hit] 254 00:22:03,956 --> 00:22:05,723 [birdsong] 255 00:22:05,758 --> 00:22:08,693 [boat horn blows] 256 00:22:13,665 --> 00:22:14,965 [telephone rings] 257 00:22:16,368 --> 00:22:17,835 [telephone rings] 258 00:22:19,371 --> 00:22:21,972 [speaking in Basque] 259 00:22:30,249 --> 00:22:31,816 [revving engine] 260 00:22:33,786 --> 00:22:36,020 [contemporary instrumental playing music] 261 00:22:49,001 --> 00:22:50,935 [music continues] 262 00:23:12,157 --> 00:23:13,657 [music continues] 263 00:23:30,042 --> 00:23:31,742 I am Thomas Meyerhoffer. 264 00:23:31,777 --> 00:23:33,143 And I'm from Sweden. 265 00:23:33,178 --> 00:23:36,013 Have been surfing since 1982. 266 00:23:36,048 --> 00:23:39,016 I am surfing the wind, but for us windsurfing on the waves 267 00:23:39,051 --> 00:23:41,785 as close as you can come to surf at that time. 268 00:23:41,820 --> 00:23:45,322 Today, there are people surfing everywhere in Sweden. 269 00:23:45,357 --> 00:23:49,026 Where we are used for wind surfing, the same place, the same wave. 270 00:23:49,061 --> 00:23:52,763 All through my high school, I used to build wind surfboards, 271 00:23:52,798 --> 00:23:53,964 and wind surfing a lot. 272 00:23:53,999 --> 00:23:56,033 And then when I decide what I want to do, 273 00:23:56,068 --> 00:23:59,570 I have to go to design school and learn car design and design, 274 00:23:59,605 --> 00:24:01,305 and there are no schools in Sweden. 275 00:24:01,340 --> 00:24:06,343 So I applied, and had to use it my surfboard to get to school. 276 00:24:09,348 --> 00:24:12,850 I have to go in the late 80's, surf the real waves. 277 00:24:12,885 --> 00:24:16,720 And after I learned at the Arts Center, 278 00:24:16,755 --> 00:24:20,457 I want to see if I can get a job at Porsche, in Germany. 279 00:24:20,492 --> 00:24:23,994 And start working in the interior part of from the new Boxter. 280 00:24:24,029 --> 00:24:26,530 Even if I like the job, it is difficult for me to live in a deep forest from Germany, 281 00:24:26,565 --> 00:24:29,199 and I miss for the ocean, 282 00:24:29,234 --> 00:24:30,734 go surfing again. 283 00:24:30,769 --> 00:24:31,935 So, I packed my bag and I applied for a job, 284 00:24:31,970 --> 00:24:35,205 and I got a lot of offers in California, 285 00:24:35,240 --> 00:24:37,107 and I decided to start working at IDEO. 286 00:24:37,142 --> 00:24:39,510 I work there for around four years, is uh... 287 00:24:39,545 --> 00:24:41,845 288 00:24:41,880 --> 00:24:42,980 many different designs. 289 00:24:43,015 --> 00:24:44,181 And then I... 290 00:24:44,216 --> 00:24:46,717 one day call from Apple, 291 00:24:46,752 --> 00:24:48,919 and I designed a computer called, eMate, 292 00:24:48,954 --> 00:24:52,022 which is the first Apple computer is transparent. 293 00:24:52,057 --> 00:24:54,258 But I think at a certain time, there are like-- 294 00:24:54,293 --> 00:24:55,826 I have all of these projects I want to do it, 295 00:24:55,861 --> 00:24:59,396 and I decided I would go to set up my own studio. 296 00:25:00,132 --> 00:25:02,700 [playing instrumental music] 297 00:25:07,205 --> 00:25:10,407 I already have my studio now for 15 years, 298 00:25:10,442 --> 00:25:12,409 and do many things different projects. 299 00:25:12,444 --> 00:25:14,978 After Apple, I started working for the sports industry. 300 00:25:15,013 --> 00:25:16,713 I designed the first... 301 00:25:16,748 --> 00:25:19,416 sort of wrapping goggle ski for Smith. 302 00:25:19,451 --> 00:25:22,352 I designed windsurfing for NeilPryde. 303 00:25:22,387 --> 00:25:25,255 And all this time I have increasingly interested 304 00:25:25,290 --> 00:25:28,659 to go back and see on the surfboard again, 305 00:25:28,694 --> 00:25:31,428 and start surfing increasingly. 306 00:25:31,463 --> 00:25:32,896 What I do as a designer is, 307 00:25:32,931 --> 00:25:35,666 really trying to create objects that have meaning. 308 00:25:35,701 --> 00:25:38,669 Which meaning you experience intuitively. 309 00:25:38,704 --> 00:25:44,207 I am very curious if I can do something with a surfboard. 310 00:25:44,242 --> 00:25:46,143 So I use all this modern tools to do this, 311 00:25:46,178 --> 00:25:47,578 I use CAD a lot. 312 00:25:47,613 --> 00:25:49,479 All my boards are designed... 313 00:25:49,514 --> 00:25:51,882 on the computer very precisely. 314 00:25:52,618 --> 00:25:55,853 [drum hit] 315 00:26:01,226 --> 00:26:02,660 [music continues] 316 00:26:09,501 --> 00:26:11,067 Surfer on... 317 00:26:11,103 --> 00:26:14,471 ever owned greater experience, who understands 318 00:26:14,506 --> 00:26:16,673 the whole surfing context, 319 00:26:16,708 --> 00:26:18,909 they are very open... 320 00:26:18,944 --> 00:26:22,846 my form, and my board, and they understand what I'm trying to do, 321 00:26:22,881 --> 00:26:26,517 and they are also open to experience it. 322 00:26:27,352 --> 00:26:30,220 [drum hit] 323 00:26:32,691 --> 00:26:34,592 [music continues] 324 00:26:41,600 --> 00:26:43,400 This is really real different surfboard, 325 00:26:43,435 --> 00:26:46,003 and I will not lie. I see it, and I think pretty much, 326 00:26:46,038 --> 00:26:48,739 there is no way in hell it will work. 327 00:26:48,774 --> 00:26:50,307 [playing guitar music] 328 00:26:50,342 --> 00:26:52,476 Say you are cutting and you get a little a little behind, 329 00:26:52,511 --> 00:26:55,679 then just hold the line and that thing just started to fly. 330 00:26:55,714 --> 00:26:59,817 That must open my eyes, and get me more inspired. 331 00:27:03,121 --> 00:27:04,822 [playing guitar music] 332 00:27:12,864 --> 00:27:14,031 [music continues] 333 00:27:23,475 --> 00:27:25,776 This has a very good value from a single fin 334 00:27:25,811 --> 00:27:28,378 the speed and surf on the rail, 335 00:27:28,413 --> 00:27:31,114 but then at the same time, you can change it in change, 336 00:27:31,149 --> 00:27:34,351 and that will only follow lines and springs directly from it. 337 00:27:34,386 --> 00:27:36,253 For me it's the best from both worlds. 338 00:27:36,288 --> 00:27:37,621 You almost feel like that You can get rid of 339 00:27:37,656 --> 00:27:39,956 lots of nonsense surfing. 340 00:27:39,991 --> 00:27:42,292 [playing guitar music] 341 00:27:47,666 --> 00:27:50,400 [Thomas] I surf because of that experience. 342 00:27:50,435 --> 00:27:52,402 [chat is not clear] 343 00:27:52,437 --> 00:27:53,670 [Thomas] I like surfing... 344 00:27:53,705 --> 00:27:55,272 where there aren't so many people. 345 00:27:55,307 --> 00:27:57,174 I got a lot of blame. 346 00:27:57,209 --> 00:27:58,942 I was criticized on my local beach, 347 00:27:58,977 --> 00:28:00,444 I am criticized everywhere. 348 00:28:00,479 --> 00:28:04,047 My social context for surfboards is not local, 349 00:28:04,082 --> 00:28:05,215 it's global. 350 00:28:05,250 --> 00:28:07,584 I was inspired by the nature itself, only... 351 00:28:07,619 --> 00:28:10,253 that type-- there is a certain simplicity in nature. 352 00:28:10,288 --> 00:28:14,758 I mean, things nowadays are more and more simple for me. 353 00:28:14,793 --> 00:28:18,562 So they might look more and are more complex than content, 354 00:28:18,597 --> 00:28:22,299 but, the form tells more and more... 355 00:28:22,334 --> 00:28:25,402 true story of its meaning of the product. 356 00:28:25,437 --> 00:28:29,840 Surfboards for me are an amazing work to explore 357 00:28:29,875 --> 00:28:33,510 because of that. Therefore bridging gives quality of sculpture 358 00:28:33,545 --> 00:28:36,079 and the show of the object, 359 00:28:36,114 --> 00:28:39,249 where certain parts from the board... 360 00:28:39,284 --> 00:28:41,384 gives users... 361 00:28:41,419 --> 00:28:43,420 certain types an experience 362 00:28:43,455 --> 00:28:45,856 in different situations in waves. 363 00:28:46,558 --> 00:28:48,358 [playing soft music] 364 00:28:51,229 --> 00:28:52,796 [music continues] 365 00:28:57,836 --> 00:28:59,570 [music continues] 366 00:29:05,911 --> 00:29:08,312 [music continues] 367 00:29:12,417 --> 00:29:14,418 [playing guitar music] 368 00:29:37,342 --> 00:29:39,343 [music continues] 369 00:29:47,886 --> 00:29:50,453 [Josh] I grew up with my-- surfing with my father. 370 00:29:50,488 --> 00:29:52,889 And my father, he came from the single fin era, 371 00:29:52,924 --> 00:29:54,491 then jump to the era of twin fins. 372 00:29:54,526 --> 00:29:56,493 And then, you know, drive the driver now, and... 373 00:29:56,528 --> 00:29:58,228 he also likes to ride big waves. 374 00:29:58,263 --> 00:30:00,130 And for me surfing with him growing up, 375 00:30:00,165 --> 00:30:01,464 that's a lot of throws. 376 00:30:01,499 --> 00:30:03,733 each board we are in the truck, 377 00:30:03,768 --> 00:30:06,570 and you go down to the beach and you will surf. 378 00:30:25,357 --> 00:30:28,959 Simmons is the person who says, "Surfboards are hydrodynamic plan the stomach." 379 00:30:28,994 --> 00:30:31,094 That's them. They are not rowboards, 380 00:30:31,129 --> 00:30:32,262 they are machines. 381 00:30:32,297 --> 00:30:35,365 Chasing information for 12 years, 382 00:30:35,400 --> 00:30:36,433 for hydrodynamic- 383 00:30:36,468 --> 00:30:38,401 have an unfinished documentary. 384 00:30:38,436 --> 00:30:41,538 I learn where many boards are. 385 00:30:41,573 --> 00:30:43,206 A very unique board. 386 00:30:43,241 --> 00:30:46,476 I have to know the people who have them. 387 00:30:46,511 --> 00:30:51,915 Finish some art galleries independent things in San Diego in the room, etc., 388 00:30:51,950 --> 00:30:53,316 works with many artists. 389 00:30:53,351 --> 00:30:55,352 For some of these reasons something I want to do. 390 00:30:55,387 --> 00:30:56,620 I have passion about it. 391 00:30:56,655 --> 00:30:59,422 Take place it's just a mess, 392 00:30:59,457 --> 00:31:02,225 and taking ideas shows something, 393 00:31:02,260 --> 00:31:06,029 and then spend time and through the whole process... 394 00:31:06,064 --> 00:31:09,132 to the final place on that day right before opening, 395 00:31:09,167 --> 00:31:11,902 usually everything is united. 396 00:31:12,370 --> 00:31:14,404 [drum hit] 397 00:31:25,884 --> 00:31:27,551 [music continues] 398 00:31:50,775 --> 00:31:52,476 [drum beat continues] 399 00:31:59,684 --> 00:32:00,850 [Richard] And that's it. 400 00:32:00,885 --> 00:32:03,453 It's like cutting... sort of... 401 00:32:03,488 --> 00:32:06,690 rough stones, and make it end, like gems. 402 00:32:06,725 --> 00:32:08,558 It takes a lot of people to do it. 403 00:32:08,593 --> 00:32:09,960 It's like that a team. 404 00:32:09,995 --> 00:32:13,229 So when I have a chance to do it with a board 405 00:32:13,264 --> 00:32:17,968 related to Hydrodynamica, it's interesting to me to make that happen. 406 00:32:20,905 --> 00:32:22,706 [drum hit] 407 00:32:31,783 --> 00:32:33,350 [playing guitar music] 408 00:32:35,487 --> 00:32:40,590 [Richard] This show begins with 1949 George Downing Endless hot curls. 409 00:32:40,625 --> 00:32:43,393 We have Bob Simmons, and Terry Hendricks... 410 00:32:43,428 --> 00:32:45,195 two mathematicians, 411 00:32:45,230 --> 00:32:46,596 smart people. 412 00:32:46,631 --> 00:32:49,532 Terry makes spoon shells, and boards, and plans the bilge. 413 00:32:49,567 --> 00:32:51,801 And then you have George Greenough there. 414 00:32:51,836 --> 00:32:53,937 And then Steve Lis Fish was on the wall. 415 00:32:53,972 --> 00:32:59,242 And there is a very strong relationship between all the boards. 416 00:32:59,277 --> 00:33:01,845 And they are all outside normal nature. 417 00:33:01,880 --> 00:33:04,447 When you see them together, then behind them 418 00:33:04,482 --> 00:33:07,384 You have it on the wall, the entire IPS series. 419 00:33:07,419 --> 00:33:09,019 "Sting" Aipa, 420 00:33:09,054 --> 00:33:11,054 MR Twin, 421 00:33:11,089 --> 00:33:13,056 Geoff McCoys "Lazor Zap", 422 00:33:13,091 --> 00:33:14,591 Simon "Thruster". 423 00:33:14,626 --> 00:33:17,394 There are so many elements that are on all IPS boards, 424 00:33:17,429 --> 00:33:19,029 from the late seventies and early eighties, 425 00:33:19,064 --> 00:33:21,765 really, the source of them comes from all other boards. 426 00:33:21,800 --> 00:33:24,501 Simmons, which one is working on their board 427 00:33:24,536 --> 00:33:26,403 with mathematical equations. 428 00:33:26,438 --> 00:33:28,471 It all looks very similar. 429 00:33:28,506 --> 00:33:30,006 They look counter intuitive. 430 00:33:30,041 --> 00:33:32,375 They are not pointed, you know. 431 00:33:32,410 --> 00:33:34,277 They are all like that in this family. 432 00:33:34,312 --> 00:33:39,015 You see a relationship between certain things and other things, you know. 433 00:33:39,050 --> 00:33:41,785 If you trace everything back in the modern era, 434 00:33:41,820 --> 00:33:44,621 You will return to "Hot Curl" in Downing, 435 00:33:44,656 --> 00:33:46,222 and Simmons in the stomach point. 436 00:33:46,257 --> 00:33:50,727 And those are things that finally become bigger or lower degrees 437 00:33:50,762 --> 00:33:54,130 on your little wave board, and on your big wave board. 438 00:33:54,165 --> 00:33:56,099 And now the trend is... 439 00:33:56,134 --> 00:33:57,767 is sort of... 440 00:33:57,802 --> 00:34:00,537 Uh, like, "Well, maybe we're stuck... 441 00:34:00,572 --> 00:34:04,707 hot curl ideas that are thin for a little too long, 442 00:34:04,742 --> 00:34:08,044 and we have to go this other direction and find the optimal one." 443 00:34:08,079 --> 00:34:09,979 And I think that's what happened. 444 00:34:10,014 --> 00:34:11,614 Every time I see it I like, 445 00:34:11,649 --> 00:34:13,817 "Okay, there are this many Hot Curl effects in this sport, 446 00:34:13,852 --> 00:34:15,752 and there are this many from Simmons." 447 00:34:16,955 --> 00:34:18,588 [playing instrumental music] 448 00:34:21,860 --> 00:34:23,727 [wave surf] 449 00:34:31,836 --> 00:34:33,670 [creaking door] 450 00:34:33,705 --> 00:34:34,738 [trumpet horn] 451 00:34:39,010 --> 00:34:42,045 [song played on the radio] 452 00:34:44,749 --> 00:34:46,616 [chat] 453 00:34:46,651 --> 00:34:48,418 - [man] Yes. - [Darryl] And look. 454 00:34:49,120 --> 00:34:50,554 [sound drilling] 455 00:34:54,092 --> 00:34:55,925 Wow. 456 00:34:55,960 --> 00:34:58,628 I play with Cowells and then I'm like... 457 00:34:58,663 --> 00:35:00,130 When I grow up I like, 458 00:35:00,165 --> 00:35:03,066 I want to rearrange... Look at this, lots of rights around here. 459 00:35:03,101 --> 00:35:04,234 So I just started surfing normally... 460 00:35:04,269 --> 00:35:05,235 [man] Oh, huh? 461 00:35:05,270 --> 00:35:06,402 - [Darryl] Yes. - [man] Good. 462 00:35:06,437 --> 00:35:08,104 Because I'm skating stupid feet. 463 00:35:08,139 --> 00:35:09,672 So I... 464 00:35:09,707 --> 00:35:11,041 Could it be that, yes. 465 00:35:11,676 --> 00:35:12,676 [laughs] 466 00:35:13,711 --> 00:35:15,312 [drilling noise] 467 00:35:19,951 --> 00:35:21,951 Flea and Troy Virostko 468 00:35:21,986 --> 00:35:24,187 start riding my board when they are young. 469 00:35:24,222 --> 00:35:26,756 Their father, Steve, is an absolute ripper. 470 00:35:26,791 --> 00:35:29,159 One of the good old boys, one of those hot red people. 471 00:35:29,194 --> 00:35:31,394 Troy and Darryl, they are brothers. 472 00:35:31,429 --> 00:35:33,096 They really love each other. 473 00:35:33,131 --> 00:35:35,565 [Darryl] I started surfing when I was four years old. 474 00:35:35,600 --> 00:35:38,702 My father took me to Cowell and helped me surf. 475 00:35:40,371 --> 00:35:42,872 Growing in Santa Cruz is the best thing ever. 476 00:35:42,907 --> 00:35:46,476 Become children, and block life from the perfect surfing place. 477 00:35:46,511 --> 00:35:48,244 Barney comes to the scene. 478 00:35:48,279 --> 00:35:52,782 I think I'm in fourth grade at Bayview. Barney moved here from Kalinga. 479 00:35:52,817 --> 00:35:54,584 Troy and Barney became first friends 480 00:35:54,619 --> 00:35:56,653 because I think they we are in the same class. 481 00:35:56,688 --> 00:35:58,388 You know, I always... 482 00:35:58,890 --> 00:36:00,323 hanging around. 483 00:36:00,358 --> 00:36:02,292 Barney and Flea very close. 484 00:36:02,327 --> 00:36:03,326 Very close. 485 00:36:03,361 --> 00:36:04,561 A lot of love for each other. 486 00:36:04,596 --> 00:36:06,396 A very strong relationship. 487 00:36:06,431 --> 00:36:09,699 You know, they say the best surfer is that man the most fun. 488 00:36:09,734 --> 00:36:11,267 Exit, Barney is the best surfer. 489 00:36:11,302 --> 00:36:14,404 [Darryl] Barney goes to Puerto Escondido and climbs the cover. 490 00:36:14,439 --> 00:36:16,539 So, like, attention center like... 491 00:36:16,574 --> 00:36:18,608 rather focused towards Santa Cruz, you know. 492 00:36:18,643 --> 00:36:20,910 I think I made like 300 dollars a month or something. 493 00:36:20,945 --> 00:36:23,980 This becomes crazy after that , all of those things we do. 494 00:36:24,015 --> 00:36:27,784 Taking pictures in magazines, the whole Air Revolution just begins to explode. 495 00:36:28,987 --> 00:36:31,921 [Zach] There is that person still doesn't like Darryl 496 00:36:31,956 --> 00:36:34,390 for people for years. 497 00:36:34,425 --> 00:36:35,959 I mean, he's a bastard, straight up. 498 00:36:35,994 --> 00:36:40,063 If you don't click in any way, 499 00:36:40,098 --> 00:36:43,266 You will hear it or feel it in a bad way, 500 00:36:43,301 --> 00:36:46,236 even though you really might innocent anything. 501 00:36:46,271 --> 00:36:49,205 He basically likes localism, whatever you want to call it. 502 00:36:49,240 --> 00:36:52,208 [Wesley] First time I met Flea Steamer Lane. 503 00:36:52,243 --> 00:36:55,545 I just moved here from Southern California to study. 504 00:36:55,580 --> 00:36:57,513 So, I decided to row out. 505 00:36:57,548 --> 00:37:01,017 Lice and some others people come out, and slots waves come to me and, 506 00:37:01,052 --> 00:37:03,353 I will go ahead and this is Flea, 507 00:37:03,388 --> 00:37:04,721 swinging the shoulder, 508 00:37:04,756 --> 00:37:07,790 I finally just basically butting right at him. 509 00:37:07,825 --> 00:37:09,659 I finally get surrounded by everyone, 510 00:37:09,694 --> 00:37:11,928 and they chase me out of the water. 511 00:37:11,963 --> 00:37:15,465 And, I don't come back, I don't know, at least a year. 512 00:37:16,267 --> 00:37:17,300 Maybe two. 513 00:37:17,335 --> 00:37:19,636 [Zach] In logic his mind, 514 00:37:19,671 --> 00:37:22,338 he is respectful for officials, 515 00:37:22,373 --> 00:37:25,041 and all surfing history, 516 00:37:25,076 --> 00:37:26,409 and culture. 517 00:37:26,444 --> 00:37:27,944 Specifically related to anything to Hawaii. 518 00:37:27,979 --> 00:37:30,880 He always has the most likely thing, 519 00:37:30,915 --> 00:37:34,851 and Richard Schmidt, and Vince Collier. 520 00:37:34,886 --> 00:37:37,553 [Darryl] I surfed on Mavericks first time, & apos; 91. 521 00:37:37,588 --> 00:37:39,122 That is only one of them afternoon, 522 00:37:39,157 --> 00:37:41,190 we talked with Vince in his book formed a room and he was like, 523 00:37:41,225 --> 00:37:43,626 "What, see buoy, is active. Let's go." 524 00:37:43,661 --> 00:37:45,127 And he's like, "Let's do it." 525 00:37:45,163 --> 00:37:47,063 He cuts at the angle after passing through breakwaters. 526 00:37:47,098 --> 00:37:50,433 We like, "What!" We can't believe we see waves like this. 527 00:37:50,468 --> 00:37:52,302 That's quite intense, you know, and just... 528 00:37:52,337 --> 00:37:53,737 I only remember that first session. 529 00:37:53,772 --> 00:37:55,905 And that's crazy, you know. This is crazy day. 530 00:37:55,940 --> 00:37:58,241 Suddenly we get photos on Mavericks 531 00:37:58,276 --> 00:38:00,610 in this big wave, and people like, "Whoa!" 532 00:38:00,645 --> 00:38:02,178 Look at this neat little deal. 533 00:38:02,213 --> 00:38:03,946 These people are locals here, we must get this. 534 00:38:03,981 --> 00:38:05,815 So we go both sides, you know. 535 00:38:05,850 --> 00:38:06,816 We have airgame. 536 00:38:06,851 --> 00:38:08,418 Steamer Lane two feet only-- 537 00:38:08,453 --> 00:38:10,953 Aircrew every time we surf, like, ten of us. 538 00:38:10,988 --> 00:38:14,123 And then we have Mavericks too, so it's like very helpful to us. 539 00:38:14,158 --> 00:38:17,260 I just feel crazy, you know, and don't fear at all. 540 00:38:17,295 --> 00:38:18,528 I don't really care if I die. 541 00:38:18,563 --> 00:38:20,463 That is a strange feeling. 542 00:38:20,498 --> 00:38:24,133 Now I've really cared so much about my life. 543 00:38:24,168 --> 00:38:26,869 Having that feeling before, You know, it's quite intense. 544 00:38:26,904 --> 00:38:31,507 It feels like, I feel so like... I surf every one day, all day. 545 00:38:31,542 --> 00:38:32,709 That's all I do. 546 00:38:32,744 --> 00:38:34,977 Surfing on the road all day every day. 547 00:38:35,012 --> 00:38:37,814 So I entered the best rowing form, the best physical form, 548 00:38:37,849 --> 00:38:40,083 so I feel very, really, comfortable in the water. 549 00:38:40,118 --> 00:38:41,617 And especially out there. 550 00:38:41,652 --> 00:38:44,754 I get this little sparkle my eyes think back 551 00:38:44,789 --> 00:38:48,091 all those people when they grow up, you know. 552 00:38:48,126 --> 00:38:50,893 Because I think Renee and I have to watch everything pretty much grow. 553 00:38:50,928 --> 00:38:52,495 Because they grow up with our children. 554 00:38:52,530 --> 00:38:55,665 Lice are always very unique. 555 00:38:55,700 --> 00:38:57,300 He will do it the way. 556 00:38:57,335 --> 00:38:58,968 It's not a problem what is the rule, 557 00:38:59,003 --> 00:39:00,670 or what is normal, or this or that. 558 00:39:00,705 --> 00:39:01,904 There is a Flea way. 559 00:39:01,939 --> 00:39:03,672 And that's really cool. 560 00:39:03,708 --> 00:39:06,642 You know, it brings it a very, very long way and it makes it... 561 00:39:06,677 --> 00:39:08,511 bring it to the top. Take him to the top. 562 00:39:08,546 --> 00:39:10,513 I will say that at the beginning of the nineties, you know, 563 00:39:10,548 --> 00:39:12,281 some of them are Westside people, 564 00:39:12,316 --> 00:39:13,449 Flea included, 565 00:39:13,484 --> 00:39:15,685 they are the tip spear for 566 00:39:15,720 --> 00:39:18,454 pedaling, surfing big waves, and surfing in big waves. 567 00:39:18,489 --> 00:39:20,757 There are no scripts to follow or anything. 568 00:39:22,093 --> 00:39:25,228 [Darryl] When you win $ 15,000 to win... 569 00:39:25,263 --> 00:39:27,163 Maverick contest, it feels pretty good. 570 00:39:27,198 --> 00:39:29,399 Slater is there the second year of the contest 571 00:39:29,434 --> 00:39:31,134 and that kind of thing big problem for everyone. 572 00:39:31,169 --> 00:39:33,403 That must be the biggest, biggest victory in my life. 573 00:39:33,438 --> 00:39:35,538 That's cool because I hit it in every heat. 574 00:39:35,573 --> 00:39:38,107 You know, I think he in every heat I have. 575 00:39:38,142 --> 00:39:39,942 There is no confusion. 576 00:39:39,977 --> 00:39:42,612 Third time like, I lost, you know. 577 00:39:42,647 --> 00:39:45,515 I think I only need waves and then I get that wave 578 00:39:45,550 --> 00:39:47,383 in the last five minutes. 579 00:39:47,418 --> 00:39:49,419 [Zach] He likes big waves, he fills the big waves, 580 00:39:49,454 --> 00:39:51,321 he is excited about big waves. 581 00:39:51,356 --> 00:39:54,190 And he finds himself in a position to go, "Okay, this is quite strong. I like this." 582 00:39:54,225 --> 00:39:55,258 And he has the ability to pull it, 583 00:39:55,293 --> 00:39:57,527 to take off. 584 00:39:57,562 --> 00:39:58,961 He has the ability to get his property the ass that is exposed from the water, 585 00:39:58,996 --> 00:40:01,197 586 00:40:01,232 --> 00:40:02,432 and rolling around, 587 00:40:02,467 --> 00:40:03,666 and spinning, and dizzy. 588 00:40:03,701 --> 00:40:04,834 Let's find another one. 589 00:40:04,869 --> 00:40:07,637 So much attention is interested in myself. 590 00:40:07,672 --> 00:40:10,606 Sponsors want me to travel, all trade shows, 591 00:40:10,641 --> 00:40:13,109 drink, and more great things happen. 592 00:40:13,144 --> 00:40:16,078 Everything goes crazy. This money has no meaning. 593 00:40:16,113 --> 00:40:17,713 And close to twelve thousand dollars a month. 594 00:40:17,748 --> 00:40:19,582 So I'm like, let's go, you want to go. 595 00:40:19,617 --> 00:40:21,451 Let's go to Vegas for a week. 596 00:40:21,486 --> 00:40:23,920 [Zach] Darryl's Mavericks year all are just wild. 597 00:40:23,955 --> 00:40:25,421 Liquor, Valiums, 598 00:40:25,456 --> 00:40:28,458 but in a quieter stage of all those moments, 599 00:40:28,493 --> 00:40:30,026 only destroys raw talent. 600 00:40:30,061 --> 00:40:32,528 He's so raw surfing talent, 601 00:40:32,563 --> 00:40:34,363 Looks like he can't help but be good. 602 00:40:34,398 --> 00:40:36,899 He does not row, or do push-ups, 603 00:40:36,934 --> 00:40:39,168 or you know, think about his diet. 604 00:40:39,203 --> 00:40:40,503 [Darryl] That was heavy at that time. 605 00:40:40,538 --> 00:40:43,272 All those older men do crazy things. 606 00:40:43,307 --> 00:40:47,510 A lot of cocaine, and weeds, it's a bit stiff at that time. 607 00:40:47,545 --> 00:40:50,480 You kind of search maybe sometimes the wrong person. 608 00:40:50,515 --> 00:40:53,883 When I won my last title in 2004, 609 00:40:53,918 --> 00:40:55,551 everyone wants to be your friend, 610 00:40:55,586 --> 00:41:00,823 there are chicks, you have home, hot tubs, & apos; 65 ragtop Impala. 611 00:41:00,858 --> 00:41:02,758 Plenty-- these crazy moments. 612 00:41:02,793 --> 00:41:06,929 [Nat] I always see it as this type of rockstar men surfer on the west side. 613 00:41:06,964 --> 00:41:09,131 He goes around, like, low riders like Cadillacs. 614 00:41:09,166 --> 00:41:12,568 I'm like... I think he has like hydraulics and others. 615 00:41:12,603 --> 00:41:14,837 [Darryl] When you stop thinking about what's important 616 00:41:14,872 --> 00:41:17,473 and why and how do you get it to a place... 617 00:41:17,508 --> 00:41:19,208 You work really hard to get to, 618 00:41:19,243 --> 00:41:22,512 from surfing and entering all the water time and this and that, 619 00:41:22,547 --> 00:41:25,081 and get this sponsor and do the right thing. 620 00:41:26,584 --> 00:41:29,585 We were introduced to... first cocaine, you know. 621 00:41:29,620 --> 00:41:31,988 Then suddenly, like, one night or whatever, 622 00:41:32,023 --> 00:41:33,422 meth, you know, happens. 623 00:41:33,457 --> 00:41:34,991 "Here, guess this," you know. 624 00:41:35,026 --> 00:41:37,860 And when I started smoking shabu I like how it makes me feel, 625 00:41:37,895 --> 00:41:40,863 and I've just been fully addicted, you know. 626 00:41:40,898 --> 00:41:42,698 And I need it every day. 627 00:41:42,733 --> 00:41:45,735 And that's what scared me Because I never had that before feeling. 628 00:41:45,770 --> 00:41:50,139 There is something quite striking the point where it stops working. 629 00:41:50,174 --> 00:41:52,775 Hot, for Mavericks contest, and he's just not seen here. 630 00:41:52,810 --> 00:41:55,344 The heat in five minutes, he is not in the water anywhere. 631 00:41:55,379 --> 00:41:56,946 Everyone is in the water. He is not there. 632 00:41:56,981 --> 00:42:00,149 A jet-ski out pulls a small little boat, 633 00:42:00,184 --> 00:42:01,250 and he is in it. 634 00:42:01,285 --> 00:42:04,053 There are no fins, no candles, nothing. 635 00:42:04,088 --> 00:42:05,588 Heat starts... 636 00:42:05,623 --> 00:42:06,923 and he is looking for candles. 637 00:42:06,958 --> 00:42:10,393 And just raging so hard the night before, 638 00:42:10,428 --> 00:42:12,728 that the only way to hit the brakes, 639 00:42:12,763 --> 00:42:14,697 and even have a chance when creating an event 640 00:42:14,732 --> 00:42:17,033 just started hitting so many valium, 641 00:42:17,068 --> 00:42:20,603 that now this person likes so it's asleep in the line. 642 00:42:20,638 --> 00:42:23,039 I thought I was in this heat with him, because I was like, 643 00:42:23,074 --> 00:42:25,875 "Cool, I get a better chance make it out of this heat." 644 00:42:25,910 --> 00:42:28,711 When Flea, like, is really at the bottom of the of the slide down, 645 00:42:28,746 --> 00:42:30,746 when he falls off a cliff on the North coast, 646 00:42:30,781 --> 00:42:32,982 I think the world is really intense. 647 00:42:33,017 --> 00:42:34,684 [Darryl] And I broke my arm, 648 00:42:34,719 --> 00:42:37,587 like, double compound fractures. 649 00:42:37,622 --> 00:42:39,622 I have cut everything all my head, 650 00:42:39,657 --> 00:42:42,358 all stitches all my head, face... 651 00:42:42,393 --> 00:42:44,860 I'm on the hill, 652 00:42:44,895 --> 00:42:48,531 because, you know, I almost died, and... 653 00:42:48,566 --> 00:42:50,099 it's still not enough, you know. 654 00:42:50,134 --> 00:42:51,467 That's what is crazy about meth. 655 00:42:51,502 --> 00:42:53,369 I can't surf, so I like, "I can't surf! 656 00:42:53,404 --> 00:42:55,905 Damn, I might as well damn be high." 657 00:42:55,940 --> 00:42:59,375 [Zach] After he left the hospital, I mean, he looked very bad. 658 00:42:59,410 --> 00:43:01,444 He is out on the way, 659 00:43:01,479 --> 00:43:04,647 and he is very thin. 660 00:43:04,682 --> 00:43:08,317 And he looks like, literally like beef jerky wrapped around the skull. 661 00:43:08,352 --> 00:43:11,687 [Darryl] My father, and my aunt, and my brother, 662 00:43:11,722 --> 00:43:13,723 and Richard Schmidt, and some men, 663 00:43:13,758 --> 00:43:16,926 older boy and say, we want you go to this place called the Beacon house. 664 00:43:16,961 --> 00:43:21,831 I entered my truck with my girlfriend, now my wife, and... 665 00:43:21,866 --> 00:43:24,000 check myself and that's it. 666 00:43:24,035 --> 00:43:27,436 [Steve] Wow! That is the consequence chapter, I think. 667 00:43:27,471 --> 00:43:30,239 Our son experiences the same thing the road at the same time. 668 00:43:30,274 --> 00:43:32,441 And the next chapter is recovery. 669 00:43:32,476 --> 00:43:35,444 And I will tell you, something is really sweet In the past, 670 00:43:35,479 --> 00:43:38,247 I mean, the word is filtered back to us in our family that Flea is serious and that is really true. 671 00:43:38,282 --> 00:43:42,752 And Renee, my wife, meet Flea one day on the road, 672 00:43:42,787 --> 00:43:47,390 and see them both hugs bring tears to my body eyes now. [laughs] 673 00:43:47,425 --> 00:43:51,293 Because I know we have someone who comes back from the other side. 674 00:43:51,328 --> 00:43:55,064 And I know how difficult it is to go back from the other side, 675 00:43:55,099 --> 00:43:57,800 because I have a loved one who hasn't made it back, 676 00:43:57,835 --> 00:44:00,269 or maybe never will. 677 00:44:00,304 --> 00:44:01,771 [Zach] Ninety percent of people, they don't come back 678 00:44:01,806 --> 00:44:03,506 from far away, 679 00:44:03,541 --> 00:44:04,707 but I think that's because Flea, 680 00:44:04,742 --> 00:44:07,243 681 00:44:07,278 --> 00:44:09,879 His personality is like, is embedded in him, 682 00:44:09,914 --> 00:44:13,282 when he just sets his mind, like, "I just went to do this!" 683 00:44:13,317 --> 00:44:14,850 He will only do it. 684 00:44:14,885 --> 00:44:17,453 [Darryl] When I came back from rehab to my house was to be cleaned, 685 00:44:17,488 --> 00:44:18,521 and like to find out, 686 00:44:18,556 --> 00:44:20,122 I'm like, "Damn!" 687 00:44:20,157 --> 00:44:22,024 Seeing how different it is, 688 00:44:22,059 --> 00:44:25,127 How could someone's mind come out that far? 689 00:44:25,162 --> 00:44:27,730 Go straight to Barney, like, & apos; Barney, what are you doing? " 690 00:44:27,765 --> 00:44:29,365 He cuts it a little . 691 00:44:29,400 --> 00:44:31,133 I'm really done. 692 00:44:31,169 --> 00:44:33,202 Barney, he's an artist, so he can do anything he wants sometimes. 693 00:44:33,237 --> 00:44:35,571 That's why he will, like, tell me, you know. He is like, 694 00:44:35,606 --> 00:44:38,040 "I have to expand my mind sometimes causes me to be an artist." 695 00:44:38,075 --> 00:44:40,209 When I work at Fleahab, and things like that, 696 00:44:40,244 --> 00:44:42,311 and I help these people, like, it's amazing, 697 00:44:42,346 --> 00:44:45,915 because you watch someone enter, is completely broken, 698 00:44:45,950 --> 00:44:50,052 to see them actually shoot again, and be this beautiful flower again, 699 00:44:50,087 --> 00:44:51,420 it's crazy! 700 00:44:51,455 --> 00:44:53,556 And the things they have do in their lives now, 701 00:44:53,591 --> 00:44:54,890 You are part of that, 702 00:44:54,925 --> 00:44:56,659 it's like the best feeling in the world, and... 703 00:44:56,694 --> 00:44:58,427 We all need to help people in life. 704 00:44:58,462 --> 00:44:59,895 This is an extraordinary thing. 705 00:44:59,930 --> 00:45:01,630 It's amazing what Flea is doing right now, 706 00:45:01,665 --> 00:45:04,533 because, it is part of rehabilitation and improves. 707 00:45:04,568 --> 00:45:08,070 Give back what you already have learn is instrumental in taking care of yourself 708 00:45:08,105 --> 00:45:10,272 on the right path, and you help others. 709 00:45:10,307 --> 00:45:13,642 Even during his years of life abused him always had the greatest heart. 710 00:45:13,677 --> 00:45:16,479 He will see something he knows that his friend likes at home, 711 00:45:16,514 --> 00:45:19,248 is it a piece of drifting wood shaped like something, 712 00:45:19,283 --> 00:45:21,751 or stone, or shell, and give them as gifts. 713 00:45:21,786 --> 00:45:23,219 He is always an extraordinary man, 714 00:45:23,254 --> 00:45:25,454 as far as doing things for the community. 715 00:45:25,489 --> 00:45:26,856 I remember, like, he always used to go down 716 00:45:26,891 --> 00:45:29,325 to Mitchells and Barbecue for homeless people. 717 00:45:29,360 --> 00:45:32,194 [Darryl] For me, like, having Children are the best in the world. 718 00:45:32,229 --> 00:45:33,429 Having a beautiful wife, 719 00:45:33,464 --> 00:45:35,631 that supports me through all my difficult times 720 00:45:35,666 --> 00:45:37,566 is the best thing ever. You know, that's... 721 00:45:37,601 --> 00:45:40,336 She's a strong woman hold on with all my nonsense, 722 00:45:40,371 --> 00:45:42,438 and really stay with me, and... 723 00:45:42,473 --> 00:45:44,073 come to our place now. 724 00:45:44,108 --> 00:45:46,509 To have this beautiful children are amazing. 725 00:45:46,544 --> 00:45:49,945 And to make something, as a child, it's really cool. 726 00:45:49,980 --> 00:45:52,581 This is so amazing we can do this, you know. 727 00:45:52,616 --> 00:45:54,416 So when I have my first daughter, Lily, 728 00:45:54,451 --> 00:45:58,120 I just fell in love harder than I ever fell love with anything. 729 00:45:58,155 --> 00:45:59,522 And my other daughter, Rita too. 730 00:45:59,557 --> 00:46:02,191 It's like, I have so much love for these two little people. 731 00:46:02,226 --> 00:46:05,027 Exploring it at the other end, and having children, and... 732 00:46:05,062 --> 00:46:08,164 start taking care of you life, and right direction in your life, 733 00:46:08,199 --> 00:46:11,600 super fun, and I won't exchange it for the world. 734 00:46:11,635 --> 00:46:13,669 Surfing is fun lately, you know. 735 00:46:13,704 --> 00:46:15,905 And I don't have to go out there and surf, and, like... 736 00:46:15,940 --> 00:46:18,607 think that I have to surf better aside from these groms, because I can't. 737 00:46:18,642 --> 00:46:20,109 These children are tearing up. 738 00:46:20,144 --> 00:46:22,444 I am very glad I was there in my life, 739 00:46:22,479 --> 00:46:24,446 to a place more than that is just a nice thing, 740 00:46:24,481 --> 00:46:28,884 and I can see them tearing, and feeling their stoke, and things like that. 741 00:46:28,919 --> 00:46:32,221 It's fun just dating and having fun. 742 00:46:32,256 --> 00:46:33,956 [playing instrumental music] 743 00:46:48,305 --> 00:46:52,074 [Zach] Darryl changes so many paths are like... 744 00:46:52,109 --> 00:46:55,277 You know, someone who is has a lot of life experience. 745 00:46:55,312 --> 00:46:58,647 Like the story most people never get into their lives. 746 00:46:58,682 --> 00:47:00,182 Now he's a bit like... 747 00:47:00,217 --> 00:47:01,817 the grom, again. 748 00:47:01,852 --> 00:47:04,954 Almost like an inspired one innocent way. Like him just triggers. 749 00:47:04,989 --> 00:47:08,090 He never even had a chance to have that good way, 750 00:47:08,125 --> 00:47:11,193 which almost makes anyone him today more extraordinary. 751 00:47:11,228 --> 00:47:14,363 Not that he will return for something he knew beforehand. 752 00:47:14,398 --> 00:47:16,832 Like, he is finishing this from the beginning. 753 00:47:16,867 --> 00:47:19,869 So, maybe that's why he is so sincere and honest 754 00:47:19,904 --> 00:47:21,470 Because it's just and real. 755 00:47:21,506 --> 00:47:24,841 He gets all of that experience for the first time. 756 00:47:27,411 --> 00:47:28,878 Death of Barney... 757 00:47:29,313 --> 00:47:30,279 Humans... 758 00:47:30,314 --> 00:47:31,614 it sucks. 759 00:47:31,649 --> 00:47:33,282 That really affects me because of that, like, 760 00:47:33,317 --> 00:47:34,984 he's my best friend, you know. 761 00:47:35,019 --> 00:47:38,053 And, seeing him go, it's just... It's just that is strange to me. 762 00:47:38,088 --> 00:47:39,755 You take it for granted. 763 00:47:39,790 --> 00:47:43,959 And with Barney I can't really get along with it as I want, you know. 764 00:47:43,994 --> 00:47:46,028 Barney has trouble listen to me. 765 00:47:46,063 --> 00:47:48,464 I am a "Small General" for him. That's what he called me. 766 00:47:48,499 --> 00:47:50,232 Every time we go out travel anywhere, 767 00:47:50,267 --> 00:47:52,801 I like, "Barney, get your passport?" "Barney, let's go." 768 00:47:52,836 --> 00:47:55,804 I am at home one hour and half the time at the beginning. 769 00:47:55,839 --> 00:47:58,274 So I'm always with him. He will never, like, 770 00:47:58,309 --> 00:48:01,076 agree with me. So I kind of give up a little. 771 00:48:01,111 --> 00:48:04,614 That's sad. It's like, now he's gone, it's like, phew! 772 00:48:05,215 --> 00:48:06,482 I hope I will just have 773 00:48:06,517 --> 00:48:08,317 a little more to him. 774 00:48:08,352 --> 00:48:11,320 I know that if I ever have it need something, Barney will be there for me. 775 00:48:11,355 --> 00:48:13,589 Like, not many people like that, you know. 776 00:48:13,624 --> 00:48:14,890 And Barney is like for me. 777 00:48:14,925 --> 00:48:16,859 He knows I will be there for him. 778 00:48:16,894 --> 00:48:20,462 Loss is the most difficult thing that happens in my life. 779 00:48:20,497 --> 00:48:22,164 He has a thin spot in his heart. 780 00:48:22,199 --> 00:48:23,265 And that's what explodes. 781 00:48:23,300 --> 00:48:25,100 That really can be avoided. 782 00:48:25,135 --> 00:48:27,737 If we know this, he can operate and fix it. 783 00:48:28,839 --> 00:48:30,672 Medications do not help in that situation. 784 00:48:30,708 --> 00:48:33,676 I just hope we will do it already know that, because then we can... 785 00:48:33,711 --> 00:48:36,779 really got her ass there and got things done. 786 00:48:36,814 --> 00:48:40,082 I feel like I can save it if I know. 787 00:48:40,117 --> 00:48:42,451 I took something from Barney all the time, you know. 788 00:48:42,486 --> 00:48:43,852 He does his own business, you know. 789 00:48:43,887 --> 00:48:46,555 He lives his life on the road he wants to live his life. 790 00:48:46,590 --> 00:48:48,524 And he's happy all the time. 791 00:48:48,559 --> 00:48:49,692 He enjoys his life. 792 00:48:49,727 --> 00:48:51,827 And we all just need to enjoy our life, 793 00:48:51,862 --> 00:48:54,330 do not take life seriously sometimes. 794 00:48:54,365 --> 00:48:55,597 He was in my dream last night. 795 00:48:55,632 --> 00:48:57,199 Yes. I don't remember dreams very well, 796 00:48:57,234 --> 00:48:59,435 but he must go somewhere, or something like that. 797 00:48:59,470 --> 00:49:00,803 That's just the most interesting thing. 798 00:49:00,838 --> 00:49:02,104 I think he is still there. 799 00:49:02,139 --> 00:49:03,572 Floating somewhere. 800 00:49:06,210 --> 00:49:08,644 [playing instrumental music] 801 00:49:38,342 --> 00:49:40,476 [music continues] 802 00:50:11,275 --> 00:50:13,175 [music continues] 803 00:50:42,973 --> 00:50:45,007 [music continues] 804 00:51:22,679 --> 00:51:24,513 [humans] Our holy land. 805 00:51:24,548 --> 00:51:27,149 Well, why are they holy? This is because... 806 00:51:27,184 --> 00:51:29,318 Even though the earth isn't like that a washing machine... 807 00:51:29,353 --> 00:51:30,853 This clothes is finished... 808 00:51:30,888 --> 00:51:35,157 Earth is a neat place for all to appreciate. 809 00:51:35,192 --> 00:51:37,926 Don't get stuck in your head, petty... 810 00:51:37,961 --> 00:51:40,196 Listen to Tom Petty, Flea likes it. 811 00:51:49,573 --> 00:51:51,674 [human] Hopefully in the future... 812 00:51:52,543 --> 00:51:54,610 we can live in harmony! 813 00:51:54,645 --> 00:51:57,379 And, uh, learning each other. 814 00:51:57,414 --> 00:51:58,981 [music continues] 815 00:52:20,938 --> 00:52:22,805 [music continues] 816 00:52:44,428 --> 00:52:45,995 [music continues] 817 00:53:11,188 --> 00:53:12,821 [music stops] 818 00:53:20,464 --> 00:53:22,198 [playing soft music] 819 00:54:13,083 --> 00:54:15,851 [music continues] 820 00:55:07,471 --> 00:55:09,204 Submitted by: www.subtitlecinema.com